Fjærfe og vilt

Erken 1914: 1 kg of trimmed venison is cut into finger-thick slices, pounded, seasoned, and laid in 100 g melted butter for at least 1 hour. Fried about 4 minutes per side, the pan deglazed with 1 dl bouillon. Served with maître d'hôtel butter balls and parsley, or with fried onion and a cream sauce of 2 dl thick cream.

Erken's 1914 chaudfroid of hazel grouse: six birds seasoned with salt, pepper and juniper berries, covered with bacon and browned in butter for about 45 minutes. The breasts are carved out cold, coated with a gelatin-bound brown madeira sauce made from pan juices and cream, garnished with egg white and truffle, and glazed with clarified stock jelly.

Erken's venison hachis: slices of cold reindeer meat are warmed in a brown sauce with pork fat, meat stock, gravy browning and lingonberry jam, served as a ring around a ragout or mashed potatoes.

Erken's venison ragout I (1914): inexpensive cuts of reindeer/deer (neck, shoulder, breast) are marinated 2 hours in a red wine marinade, browned and steamed tender in the strained marinade. A brown butter-flour sauce is thinned with the cooking liquid, the meat simmers in it, and the dish is served with macaroni tossed in butter and Parmesan.

Erken's venison ragout II (1914): slices of reindeer/deer are dredged in seasoned flour, browned in pork fat, and simmered tender for about 2 hours in a brown butter-flour sauce with pork, carrot, clove and bay leaf. Sherry is added at the end.

Saddle of reindeer from Erken 1914: a 3 kg saddle is cleaned, larded with fat strips, rubbed with salt, covered with buttered paper and roasted about 2 hours with boiling water in the pan. A brown sauce of butter, flour and strained pan juices is finished with 1 dl sour cream and 1 tsp red currant jam.

Erken's 1914 recipe for hare en cocotte: pieces of hare are browned in butter, placed in a pot with browned onion, clove, peppercorns, stock, and a bouquet of herbs, and left to barely simmer for 2.5 hours. Thickened with a beurre manie, finished with fried forcemeat balls of veal or hare, and served in the pot with red currant jelly.

Erken's hare pate from 1914: hare is browned with onion, celery, carrot, and bay, cooked tender in red wine and bouillon, the meat is picked off the bones and pureed with 125 g butter, thinned with hot stock and seasoned with red currant jelly, salt, and pepper. Filled into a greased mold, covered with melted butter, and aged cold for a couple of days before it is turned out.

Hare ragout I (civet de lievre) from Erken 1914: the hare is cut up, floured, and browned in butter along with pork cubes, cooked 2-3 hours under a lid in red wine and meat stock with onion and spices, and seasoned with sugar, vinegar, and clove or red currant jam.

Hare ragout II (civet de lievre) from Erken 1914: hare pieces marinate 2 hours in cognac, oil, red wine, onion, and spices, are cooked tender in a pot with long-browned flour, onion, and a bundle of soup greens, and the sauce is finally thickened with diluted hare blood tempered with hot sauce. Arranged with fried pork, small fried onions, and optionally button mushroom.

Roast hare I from Erken 1914: hare (approx. 2 kg) is skinned and cleaned, larded with salted and peppered strips of pork, browned in butter, and slow-roasted about 1.5 hours with meat stock and cream. Served carved crosswise over the backbone with fried potatoes, salad, and tomatoes, and a sauce with red currant jelly and heavy cream.

Roast hare III from Erken's Stor kokebok 1914: hare is larded with pork, browned, and roasted about 1 hour in the oven while basted with a flour-based sauce of meat stock, water, and cream; the sauce is finished with cream, red currant jelly, and cold butter. Served with fried potatoes and vegetables.

Chicken à la cardinal from Erken's Stor kokebok (1914): chicken pieces are braised tender in the oven with butter and blanched leek, mushrooms are added toward the end, and the dish is served with a cream-thickened butter sauce cooked on chicken stock with peppercorns, parsley, and lemon juice.

Erken's French-style roast chicken: the chicken is cleaned, the breastbone removed, stuffed with parsley butter, browned in butter, and braised covered for about 1 hour with cream and meat stock. The sauce is reduced with cream, stock, and cold butter. Served with fried potatoes, tomatoes, and salad. Reckon ½ chicken per person.

Chicken à la Marengo from Erken's Stor kokebok 1914: chicken pieces browned in oil and simmered tender in a brown base sauce with tomato, sherry, mushrooms, olives and truffle, served with baked puff-pastry shapes.

Chicken à la parisienne from Erken 1914: chicken pieces browned in butter with onion, rice browned separately, everything baked together with tomatoes, bay leaf and boiling meat stock in high heat for about 1 hour; served with rice, stuffed tomatoes and herbs.

Chicken à la reine from Erken's Stor kokebok (1914): chicken pieces gently cooked in butter with truffle slices, cooked tender under a lid in the oven, and served with a sauce of reduced cream and white sauce stirred with crayfish butter, lemon juice, cayenne and asparagus tips.

Chicken en cocotte from Erken's Stor kokebok (1914): chicken pieces browned in butter, layered in a closed ovenproof pot with fried onion, mushroom and diced ham, topped with tomato slices and gently braised in the oven for about 45 minutes. Thickened at the end with a beurre manié and moistened with veal stock; served in the pot.

Erken's recipe for roast black grouse hen from Stor kokebok 1914: two birds are larded with pork, browned in butter, and roasted for 1–1½ hours with basting of bouillon and cream, served with fried potatoes and cooked apples filled with red currant jelly.

Erken's classic whole roast pheasant from 1914: two aged pheasants are cleaned, salted, optionally filled with butter and truffle, covered with pork slices and browned in butter in an iron pot, roasted 45–60 minutes while being basted with bouillon. Served carved on a hollowed, fried bread base with head, wings, and tail as garnish.

Pheasant ragout (salmis de faisan) from Erken's Stor kokebok 1914: pheasant is part-roasted half-tender with pork, cut up, flambéed with cognac, and finished tender in strained stock made from the carcass and red wine; the sauce is finished with a brown base sauce and optional truffle slices.

Erken's hazel grouse cutlets (1914): the breasts of 6 hazel grouse are cut out, seasoned with salt, pepper and crushed juniper berries, breaded in egg and rusk crumbs and fried in butter. The carcasses are cooked to a jus reduced into a rich sauce with madeira and mushrooms; arranged garnished with meat aspic.

Erken's recipe for boiled ptarmigan: ptarmigan are rubbed with lemon and boiled 1½–2 hours with lightly salted pork belly and celery stalk, quartered and arranged with pork slices on a bed of rice with butter, garnished with piped mashed potato, mushrooms and strips of carrot and parsley root. Can also be used for capercaillie and other fowl.

Erken's Songbirds en cocotte: small game birds filled with lemon butter, breaded in rusk crumbs and parmesan with egg, baked in a cocotte in a hot oven for about 30 min and served with tomato sauce.

Erken's festive recipe for a boned, truffle-larded turkey filled with finely ground chicken forcemeat stirred with cream over ice; browned and simmered in bouillon, covered, for 1½–2 hours, then roasted light brown in the oven and served with salad, peas, tomatoes, and French potatoes.

Erken's stuffed turkey with chestnuts: chestnuts are peeled after dipping in hot fat, cooked tender in stock, mixed with finely chopped pork to a stuffing, filled into the turkey, which is barded with pork slices, steamed, and finished in a hot oven with basting; served with browned potatoes, head lettuce, and pan juices or

A cross-reference in Erken's Stor kokebok (1914): galantine of turkey is made the same way as galantine of goose.

Turkey stuffed with veal forcemeat and roasted in the oven, arranged with a chipolata garnish: small cut-out carrots and turnips simmered in stock, mushrooms, and small fried forcemeat balls, with brown sauce strained over.

Turkey à la Milanaise from Erken's Stor kokebok: a stuffing of blanched sausage slices, cooked chestnuts, prunes, pears, and chopped turkey liver sautéed in butter and finished with white wine, placed in the skin pocket at the neck; the breast is covered with pork fat and the bird is roasted about 2 hours in a hot oven with frequent basting. Served with lettuce, tomatoes, pommes parisienne, and brown sauce.

Turkey à la reine from Erken's Stor kokebok 1914: a whole turkey rubbed with lemon, steamed tender in meat stock on pork fat slices with carrot, turnip, and onion, served with oyster sauce.

Frikandeau of reindeer meat: elongated slices are pounded, larded with pork fat, dredged in flour and browned in butter, braised tender in water and stock, and finished with cream for a rich sauce.

Erken's recipe for pan-fried slices of reindeer meat arranged on a layer of grated horseradish, garnished with finely shredded lettuce, cress and horseradish tinted pink with beet vinegar.

Reindeer cutlets from the tenderloin or saddle are dipped in melted butter and rusk crumbs, fried quickly in clarified butter, and served with sautéed mushrooms and a rosette of onion, chestnut or celeriac purée.

Reindeer cutlets à la diable: seasoned cutlets are fried in smoking-hot oil, arranged on a freshly fried slice of white bread with a slice of truffle, and served with brown mushroom sauce and orange salad.

Erken's festive recipe for saddle of venison à la Conti: a 3 kg saddle is larded with pork fat, marinated two days in oil and vinegar with carrots, onion and herbs, roasted 1 1/2 hours on the marinade vegetables, and served with a juniper-berry cream sauce plus fried potatoes, glazed chestnuts and tomatoes.

Saddle of venison à la norvégienne from Erken 1914: a 3 kg saddle is cleaned of membranes, larded with pork fat, browned in butter and roasted about 1 hour while basted with a brown sauce of 125 g butter, 80 g flour, 1 l stock and 1 l milk with gravy browning. The sauce is strained and finished with cream and rowanberry jelly; served with cinnamon-poached pears and butter-fried bananas.

A brief cross-reference recipe from Erken's Stor kokebok (1914), p. 273: duck in aspic is prepared exactly like goose in aspic (p. 266). No separate quantities are given; a cold party dish for the cold table.

Erken's 1914 party dish: a poularde or capon rubbed with lemon, larded with truffle, covered with pork, browned in butter, and steam-roasted with root vegetables, ham, and stock, finished with Madeira. The sauce is strained off the vegetables with brown gravy. Served sliced with potato baskets filled with vegetables.

Pigeons aux fines herbes from Erken (1914): pigeons halved and braised tender in butter with coarsely chopped onion, parsley, mushroom and truffle. The stock is reduced 10 minutes into a sauce, seasoned with lemon juice and poured over the pigeons.

Pigeons with olive sauce from Erken (1914): six larded pigeons are browned in butter and roasted tender for about 1 hour with boiling milk and bouillon. The stock is used for a brown roux sauce with red wine, cream and olives. Served cut up with puff pastry slices.

Roast Pigeon II from Erken (1914): pigeons are scalded in milk, larded with pork, browned in butter and roasted tender under a lid with milk. The sauce is enriched with cream and seasoned with Maggi seasoning. Served halved with salad and small shells of fruit jelly.

A short cross-reference recipe from Erken's Stor kokebok (1914), p. 273: galantine of duck is made exactly like galantine of goose (p. 266) – boned-out duck filled with forcemeat, simmered and pressed cold. No separate quantities are given.

Steam-cooked (braised) goose from Erken 1914: a braise of browned onion, pork, peppercorns, carrots, celery root, and veal stock is boiled 2 hours and strained; the goose is steam-cooked in the braise 2–3 hours until tender and served hot in the stock with browned root vegetables or sauce à la Toulouse.

Galantine of goose: the goose is boned out so the meat stays attached to the skin, layered with 1 kg veal/pork forcemeat seasoned with white wine and meat glaze, with strips of ox tongue, olives, truffle and cucumber. The roll is sewn shut, tied in a cloth and simmered 1–1½ hours in 1½ l meat stock, pressed cold, and the stock is clarified and set with 12 sheets of gelatin into aspic. Sliced and garnished with aspic, salad and hard-boiled eggs.

Erken's goose à l'italienne from 1914: goose stuffed with oven-baked chopped onion mixed with milk-soaked white bread, rubbed with onion, salt and pepper, roasted in a hot oven and served with pan juices and whipped apple purée.

Goose in aspic from Erken's Stor kokebok: the goose is boiled tender in 2 liters of water with onion, peppercorns and bay leaf, cut up and placed in molds. The stock is reduced, 8 sheets of gelatin are added, it is strained, degreased and seasoned with lemon juice and vinegar before being poured over the meat to set. Served turned out with salad.

Goose in white sauce from Erken 1914: the goose is boiled tender in salted water with parsley root and celeriac, cut up and served on a platter with a butter-thickened stock sauce seasoned with cayenne, sugar, lemon juice and sherry and thickened with egg yolks and cream, garnished with puff pastry points.

Erken's recipe for a whole boiled goose stuffed with apples and prunes, served carved in a thickened sauce of goose stock, tomato purée, and Madeira, garnished with Brussels sprouts and cauliflower.

Stuffed roast duck from Schønberg Erken (1914): the duck is rubbed with salt and pepper and stuffed with fried pork and onion mixed with slices of duck liver and parsley, sewn shut, and roasted in a hot oven under greased paper.

Erken's duck à la crème (1914): roast duck is cooled, the breast is cut out and replaced with a farce of steamed, chopped duck liver mixed with ice-cold whipped cream, arranged cold with orange slices around it.

Erken's recipe for duck fillet (filets de canard) from 1914: roast duck whose breast is cut into fillets, covered with a liver purée cooked in butter and cognac, garnished with steamed orange slices drizzled with salad oil, and served with sauce Bigarade.

Erken's canard à l'orange (1914): duck roasted in a very hot oven and basted with boiling brown bouillon, then further with brown sauce. The sauce is strained, mixed with meat glaze and orange and lemon juice, and the duck is glazed in a hot oven. Served on a rice base with orange slices and orange peels filled with a mousse of duck l

Erken's lightly salted (sprengt) duck from 1914: the duck is rubbed with sugar and saltpeter, packed with coarse salt for 3 days, rinsed and gently simmered 1½–2 hours, and served with boiled vegetables and optional chilled horseradish sauce.

A classic recipe from Schonberg Erken's Stor kokebok (1914): a duck rubbed with salt and pepper, covered with pork slices, pot-roasted in butter about 1 1/2 hours, and served with pan-juice gravy thinned with bouillon and cream, and chestnuts boiled in bouillon around the duck.

Moose patties: 2 kg moose meat and ½ kg pork ground twice, mixed with 2 eggs, 2 dl stock or sour cream, salt and pepper, formed into round patties and fried in butter or fat. Suitable for canning.

Moose meatballs: moose meat and pork ground six times, then twice more with red-wine-soaked bread with the crust removed. The forcemeat is worked with eggs, stock, and a little red wine and cooked as balls or a pudding, or preserved in jars.

Erken's goose liver pâté from 1914: goose liver larded with truffle is layered with a forcemeat of pork, pork fat, shallot, button mushroom, parsley, truffle and rum in a pork-lined pâté mold, baked about 2½ hours in a moderate oven, moistened with Madeira jus and cooled; keeps for a couple of months.

Erken's base forcemeat for chicken mousseline: 500 g raw chicken meat is pounded fine with spices, 2 egg whites are worked in, the forcemeat is sieved, chilled on ice, and blended with 5 dl ice-cold heavy cream. Filled into timbale molds or shaped into quenelles and poached.

Chicken forcemeat II from Erken's Stor kokebok (1914): finely scraped raw chicken meat is combined with egg white, a cooked and cooled panade of flour, egg yolk, boiling milk, and melted butter, chilled on ice, and thinned with raw and whipped cream. Shaped into quenelles or sausages, optionally filled with salpicon, poached and served with sauce suprême or tomato sauce.

Classic ptarmigan pâté from Erken's Stor kokebok 1914: layers of ptarmigan breast, veal and pork slices with a forcemeat of ground ptarmigan, veal and pork thinned with cream, baked in a water bath 3–4 hours and covered with a strong jus cooked from ptarmigan bones, celeriac and parsley.

Pheasant à la riche from Erken's Stor kokebok 1914: two pheasants covered with pork slices, browned in butter, roasted and doused with 4 dl of soured cream, basted often; the jus is reduced or thickened with browned butter and flour. Served with pommes frites, creamed Brussels sprouts, and redcurrant jelly. About 10 servings.

Pheasant à la Rothschild (Erken 1914): pheasant filled with duck liver and truffle, marinated 3 days in port, roasted under a lid on a bed of sautéed carrots, onion, celery, and ham with thyme and Madeira; the sauce is made from the vegetables, the marinade, and brown bouillon, then strained. Served with pommes frites and apples sautéed in butter. About 5 servings.

Erken's goose giblets (abatis d'oie) from 1914: goose giblets are boiled tender with root vegetables, the stock is reduced by half and thickened with browned butter, onion and flour, seasoned with parsley, lemon juice and pickled gherkins or pearl onions, and served in a deep dish with bread croutons.

Erken's foie gras à la Toulouse (1914): goose liver is larded with seasoned truffle slices, wrapped in fatty pork and buttered paper (or pâté dough), roasted 40 minutes in a hot oven with butter and drippings, and served on a platter with button mushrooms and Espagnole or Madeira sauce boiled up with white wine.

Erken's classic roast goose from 1914: the goose is cleaned, seasoned with salt and pepper, stuffed with apples and prunes, sewn shut and roasted 2–2½ hours while continuously basted with pan juices. Cold water poured over near the end gives crisp skin. The juices are reduced or thickened into gravy, and the goose is served whole with browned potatoes, Brussels sprouts and t

Salmi of duck from Erken's Stor kokebok (1914): two ducks are roasted almost tender, cut up, and simmered tender in a brown sauce of butter, flour, shallot, liver, and giblets, thinned with pan juices, red wine, and meat stock, seasoned with olives, paprika, and lemon juice. A salmi is a French dish of poultry finished in a rich sauce. Served with glazed chestnuts or in a vol-au-vent.

Chicken fricassee à la bonne femme: a jointed young hen is simmered in butter with onion and carrot, thickened with flour and cooked tender in meat stock with tomatoes, and finished with mushrooms and parsley.

Chicken curry from Erken (1914): prepared like a chicken fricassee, but the sauce is seasoned with curry, without wine or egg yolks. The cut-up boiled hens are arranged in the middle of the platter surrounded by boiled rice.

Classic poularde aux écrevisses: crayfish shells are pounded with butter and cooked out to a crayfish butter, thickened with flour and chicken stock into a sauce seasoned with lemon and nutmeg; boiled chicken meat and crayfish tails are warmed in the sauce, and the rest of the sauce is enriched with egg yolks and served on the side.

Chicken with rice from Erken (1914): a hen stuffed with finely chopped liver, gizzard, ham, and pork is simmered tender in veal stock with onion, carrot, and a bouquet of soup herbs. Rice is cooked in the stock during the last hour, enriched with three egg yolks, and arranged around the carved hen.

Erken's recipe for a whole hen stuffed with risotto-like rice cooked with onion, butter, stock, and tomatoes, slow-roasted covered in the oven and served with tomato sauce.

Classic chicken fricassee from Erken's Stor kokebok (1914): hens are soaked, blanched, and boiled tender for 3–5 hours, cut up, and served in a butter-thickened sauce of chicken stock with cayenne, sugar, and sherry, optionally enriched with egg yolk and cream.

Erken's Chicken à la royale (1914): a whole hen simmered tender for 2–4 hours in stock with onion, clove, bay, peppercorns, parsley, and salt. A white sauce of 70 g butter and 25 g flour thinned with the stock; half is enriched with egg yolks and cream and served on the side, the rest is used to warm the cut-up chicken and mushrooms.

Erken's Chicken with cauliflower (1914): two hens are soaked, filled with a ragout of boiled sweetbread and mushrooms thickened with a roux, sweetbread stock, and egg yolks, covered with slices of pork, tied up, and simmered tender in 2 liters of veal stock. Served sliced on a platter against a bread or rice base, alternating with boiled cauliflower and a light cauliflower sauce.

Erken's chicken gratin from 1914: a white sauce of 60 g butter, 50 g flour, and ½ l chicken stock or milk is stirred with 1 dl breadcrumbs, about 300 g finely chopped boiled chicken, 3 egg yolks, parsley, celery, a little onion, salt, and paprika; stiffly beaten egg whites are folded in and the mass is baked in a greased mold in a water bath in a hot oven about 25 minutes.

Erken's chicken cutlets from 1914: a thick panada of 40 g butter, 45 g flour, 2 dl milk and a little cream is stirred with egg, seasonings, lemon juice and about 300 g finely chopped cooked chicken, shaped into cutlets, breaded in egg yolk with melted butter and rusk crumbs, baked until browned and served with mashed potatoes and creamed peas

Erken's chicken soufflé in small molds (soufflé de volaille en caisses), 1914: 180 g raw chicken meat pounded fine with 4 egg yolks, strained, folded lightly with 1¼ dl lightly whipped cream, 2 stiffly beaten egg whites, diced mushroom and truffle, filled into buttered small molds ¾ full and baked about 20 min in a moderate

Erken's pigeon ragout from 1914: pigeons split lengthwise, salted, steamed tender for about 1 hour in a brown sauce of pork, onion, flour, butter and bouillon with bay leaf, clove, mace and lemon; the sauce is strained, thickened with potato starch if needed and seasoned with capers.

Erken's Roast Pigeon I from 1914: six pigeons are larded with pork (or bound with pork slices), given butter inside, browned in butter and roasted 45-60 minutes with boiling stock. The sauce is reduced with cream, optionally replaced by a game sauce. Served with salad, roast potatoes and roast chestnuts.

Erken's stuffed pigeons (1914): the breastbone is removed, the pigeons are filled with a stuffing of giblets/liver (optionally chicken liver or pigeon meat), roasted in butter about 1 hour together with cauliflower, carrots and peas, split lengthwise and arranged against a bread base with tartlets of stewed peas and artichoke bottoms.

Moose tongues are salted, smoked, and served the same way as smoked moose meat: rubbed with salt, sugar, and saltpeter, sewn into cloth, smoked, and served in thin slices browned in butter.

Smoked moose meat: 1 kg leg meat rubbed with 100 g salt, 10 g saltpeter and 25 g sugar, sewn into thin cloth and smoked. Served cut in thin slices, browned for a moment in butter, with scrambled eggs or vegetables.

A reindeer leg is rubbed with salt, sugar and saltpeter, sits 3-4 weeks in boiled brine, is dried a couple of days, smoked and cured.

Erken's method for rendering the goose's leaf fat into cooking fat: 12 hours in water, melted with apple and red onion, strained and used like butter; optionally with 300 g of suet for a firmer fat.

Erken's basic technique for singeing poultry: salt in a pan, 1–2 tbsp denatured alcohol lit, and the plucked bird kept moving over the flame until down and pinfeathers can be removed. Small birds are singed several at a time on a long stick.

Erken's timbale de foie gras (1914): goose liver, truffle and raw chicken meat are sieved into a fine forcemeat, worked with ice-cold cream and stiffly beaten egg whites, steamed in a buttered lidded mold in a water bath for ¾ hour and served with Madeira or truffle sauce.

Cooked chicken mousselines are placed in tartlet shells with béchamel sauce and cheese flakes, topped with a slice of cooked ham, and a cheese-soufflé batter of 100 g flour, 2.5 dl milk, 100 g parmesan, 20 g butter and 2 eggs is piped over. Gratinéed in a hot oven and served at once.

A classic cold party dish from Erken's Stor kokebok (1914, p. 297): cut fillets of boiled, cold hens are coated in a gelatin-set béchamel (chaud-froid), decorated with tarragon and truffle, glazed with aspic, and arranged with salad and stuffed mushroom caps, ideally in a carved block of ice.

French-inspired roast goose stuffed with peeled and blanched chestnuts, rubbed with salt and pepper, sewn up, and roasted in the oven. Served carved but reassembled whole, garnished with roasted potatoes, chestnuts, and Brussels sprouts, with reduced pan juices and ¼ liter of espagnole sauce.

Game sauce from Erken's Stor kokebok (1914): roasting juices thickened with sago flour, brought to a boil with tomato paste, mounted with cold butter and stiffly whipped cream, seasoned with salt and redcurrant jelly.