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Chicken in chaud-froid sauce (poularde en chaud-froid)

A classic cold party dish from Erken's Stor kokebok (1914, p. 297): cut fillets of boiled, cold hens are coated in a gelatin-set béchamel (chaud-froid), decorated with tarragon and truffle, glazed with aspic, and arranged with salad and stuffed mushroom caps, ideally in a carved block of ice.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 297 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

A classic French-inspired party dish from the poultry and game chapter of Henriette Schønberg Erken's "Stor kokebok" (1914). Chaud-froid was the kitchen's showpiece in bourgeois social life: cold, boiled poultry coated in a white sauce that sets, decorated with truffle and tarragon and glazed with aspic. The presentation on a carved block of ice shows how theatrical the cold buffet could be before the age of the refrigerator.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Cut up the hens

    When the hens are completely cold, cut out the fillets. Cut each fillet into 2 or 3 pieces depending on size, and place them on a rack over a platter.

  2. 2

    Make the chaud-froid sauce

    Place the gelatin in a little cold water until soft. Squeeze out the water and dissolve it in the warm béchamel sauce. Stir the sauce until it is cold and begins to thicken.

  3. 3

    Coat the chicken pieces

    Pour the thickening sauce evenly over the chicken pieces so they are completely coated. Season the sauce with salt before pouring it over.

  4. 4

    Decorate

    Decorate each piece with tarragon leaves and thin truffle slices while the sauce is still a little tacky.

  5. 5

    Glaze with aspic

    Once the sauce is completely set, carefully drip the cold, dissolved aspic over it with a teaspoon, layer by layer, until the pieces are glossy.

  6. 6

    Fill the mushrooms

    Fill the boiled mushroom caps with truffle purée, or with a mixture of finely chopped tongue, truffle, cucumber, and hard-boiled egg white stirred together with a little chopped jelly.

  7. 7

    Presentation

    Arrange the chicken pieces against a mound of salad greens and surround them with the stuffed mushroom caps. To follow the original exactly, just before serving set the platter in a carved block of ice placed on a dish with a napkin underneath.

Changes from the original

Measurements have been converted to modern units (liters/deciliters, grams, sheet format for gelatin). The amount of béchamel sauce was unclear in the original text and has been set at 5 dl. "Hard-boiled egg white" and the other garnishes are listed as separate ingredients. The method has been divided into numbered steps, and the ice-block presentation is described as optional.

Tidsmaskin – hva endret seg?

Velg to utgaver og se hva Henriette Schønberg Erken la til, fjernet eller endret mellom dem.

1914 (korrekturlest, s. 297)1949 (korrekturlest, s. 330)~56% av teksten endretfjernetlagt til
2 kokte, kolde høns ½ l. bechamelsaus ¼ ¾ l. aspic 30 gr. gelatin estragon trøfler champignons Naar tomat. Når hønsene er kolde, utskjæres fileterne, filetene, og hver av af disse skjæres i 2 eller 3 dele deler efter størrelsen. Gelatinen trækker trekker i litt koldt vand, kaldt vann, opløses derefter i den varme bechamelsaus, røres i, i til sausen er kold, heldes kald, helles over hønsestykkerne. Dekoreres med estragonblade og trøffelskiver. Naar hønsestykkene. Når sausen er ganske stiv, heldes forsigtig helles forsiktig den kolde, kolde opløste aspic over, benyt benytt en teske teskje til at å dryppe over med. Lægges Legges op mot en høide av af salat, omgives med champignonskaaler, fyldt omgis med trøffelpuré eller en blanding av finhakket tunge, trøffel, agurk champignons og haardkokt eggehvite, blandet med litt hakket gele. tomater. Serveres iskald. Fatet stilles kan kort før anretningen stilles i en uthugget isblok. Denne er lagt paa fat med serviet. isblokk.

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Frequently asked questions

What is chaud-froid sauce?
In this recipe it is a béchamel sauce (½ l) with dissolved gelatin (30 g) added, stirred until cold and poured over the cold chicken pieces so it sets into an even, glossy layer.
Which parts of the hens are used?
The fillets are cut from two boiled, cold hens, and each fillet is divided into 2 or 3 pieces depending on size.
How is the aspic applied?
Wait until the chaud-froid sauce is completely set, then carefully pour the cold, dissolved aspic (¼ l) over it – use a teaspoon to drip it on.
How is the dish served?
The pieces are arranged against a mound of salad greens and surrounded by mushroom cups filled with truffle purée or a mixture of finely chopped tongue, truffle, cucumber, and hard-boiled egg white mixed with a little chopped jelly. The dish is from Henriette Schønberg Erken's "Stor kokebok" (1914), p. 297.

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