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Boiled ptarmigan (poules de neige)

Erken's recipe for boiled ptarmigan: ptarmigan are rubbed with lemon and boiled 1½–2 hours with lightly salted pork belly and celery stalk, quartered and arranged with pork slices on a bed of rice with butter, garnished with piped mashed potato, mushrooms and strips of carrot and parsley root. Can also be used for capercaillie and other fowl.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 327 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

The recipe appears in the chapter on poultry and game, right after the roast ptarmigan. Boiled ptarmigan was a finer dish where the bird was boiled together with lightly salted pork and served on a bed of rice with mashed potato and mushrooms – a typical early-1900s «platter arrangement». Erken notes that capercaillie and other fowl can be prepared the same way.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Prepare the ptarmigan

    Clean the ptarmigan well and rub them all over with a lemon slice.

  2. 2

    Set over the boiling

    Place the ptarmigan in boiling water together with the piece of pork and a piece of celery stalk.

  3. 3

    Cook gently

    Bring to a boil, skim well, and let it simmer until the ptarmigan are tender, 1½–2 hours. Season with salt – how much is needed depends on how salty the pork is.

  4. 4

    Cut up

    Take out the ptarmigan and cut each into four. Cut the pork into slices.

  5. 5

    Plate

    Boil the rice and mix in salt and butter. Place the rice as a bed on the platter and arrange the ptarmigan and pork neatly on top.

  6. 6

    Garnish and serve

    Pipe the mashed potato through a ricer or piping bag directly onto the platter, and place the mushrooms around. Strips of carrot and parsley root can be laid over in stripes. Capercaillie and other fowl are prepared the same way.

Changes from the original

Amounts for water, rice, mushrooms, mashed potato and butter are estimated, since the original only mentions them without measures. «Letsprængt flesk» is translated as lightly salted pork belly, and «hvite rotfrynser» as parsley root. Salt is given as «to taste», as the original assumes (depending on how salty the pork is).

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Tidsmaskin – hva endret seg?

Velg to utgaver og se hva Henriette Schønberg Erken la til, fjernet eller endret mellom dem.

Fra19141949Modernisert
Til19141949Modernisert
1914 (korrekturlest, s. 327) → 1949 (korrekturlest, s. 362)~80% av teksten endretfjernetlagt til
(Poules de neige.) 4 ryper citron 1/2 sitron ½ kg. letsprængt lettsprengt flesk 1 selleristykke (stangselleri) ris champignons potetespuré. Ryperne potetpuré. Rypene rengjøres, gnides over med en citronskive sitronskive og sættes settes over ilden varmen i det kokende vand vann tillikemed flesket og et stykke stangselleri. Koker op, skummes godt og smaakoker, til ryperne er kokt, 1 1/2—2 timer. Tilsætning av salt beror paa, hvor salt flesket er. Naar ryperne er kokt, lægges de op, skjæres i fire dele, flesket skjæres i skiver. Ryperne og flesket lægges pent op paa en risbord, tilsat salt og smør. Potetespuréen presses gjennem presse like paa fatet, og champignons lægges omkring. Gulerotfrynser og hvite rotfrynser kan lægges i stripelet over. Tiur og anden fugl behandles paa samme maate.

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Frequently asked questions

How long should the ptarmigan boil?
The ptarmigan simmer 1½–2 hours, until tender. The water is brought to a boil and skimmed well before it is lowered to a simmer.
How much salt should I use?
It depends on how salty the pork is – the recipe uses ½ kg lightly salted (lightly brined) pork in the cooking water, so taste and salt only if necessary.
What are the ptarmigan served with?
The ptarmigan are quartered and arranged together with pork slices on a bed of rice with salt and butter. Mashed potato is piped through a ricer directly onto the platter, and mushrooms are placed around. Strips of carrot and parsley root can be laid over in stripes.
Can I use fowl other than ptarmigan?
Yes, according to Schønberg Erken (Stor kokebok 1914, p. 327) capercaillie and other fowl are prepared the same way.

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