Kjøtt

Classic sweetbreads à la financière from Erken's Stor kokebok 1914: boiled veal sweetbreads are sliced, larded with pork fat, and glazed in the oven with jus and port, served on fried white-bread croutons with slices of tongue and a sauce of stock, port, tomato purée, truffles, olives, mushroom, and small veal meatballs.

Erken's sweetbreads à la moderne: sliced boiled sweetbreads are warmed in cream in a water bath and thickened with egg yolks, salt, cayenne, and sherry until it sets. Served at once in the cocotte.

Erken's sweetbreads with spinach: sweetbreads simmered in meat stock and butter, sliced and laid on creamed spinach or sorrel, with the cooking liquid reduced with heavy cream as a sauce.

Sweetbread ragout from Erken's Stor kokebok 1914: cooked and sliced veal sweetbreads in a butter-and-flour meat-stock sauce thickened with egg yolk, seasoned with Madeira, lemon juice, truffle, salt, and pepper, mixed with mushroom and crayfish or shrimp. Kept warm in a water bath.

Erken 1914: a 3 kg veal leg larded with fresh pork fat tossed in salt, pepper, onion, and parsley, steamed covered for 2–3 hours with root vegetables, butter, and a little water. Served sliced with a truffle sauce made from the pan juices, lettuce bouquets, fried tomatoes, creamed Jerusalem artichokes, and fried potatoes.

Erken's stuffed breast of veal from 1914: a boned breast of veal filled with meat or fish forcemeat, rolled, sewn, and cooked 1½–2 hours in salted water, or browned and roasted. Served with shrimp, asparagus, tomato, or celery sauce.

Chaud-froid of lamb chops from Erken's Stor kokebok 1914: lightly cooked, boned chops half-coated with white cream béchamel and half with tomato-red sauce, both set with gelatin and aspic, glazed with aspic and arranged in a ring with salad in the center.

A simple recipe from Erken's Stor kokebok (1914) for plain mutton chops: the chops are pounded flat, seasoned, dipped in melted butter and fried very quickly over high heat, served with browned butter.

Technique guide from Erken (1914) for cutting mutton chops: chop off the rack with suitably long bones, remove the backbone, divide into chops with one bone each, trim away skin and fat, scrape the bone clean and pound the chops lightly with a broad knife dipped in water.

Erken's mutton chops à l'italienne (1914): chops fried in butter, topped with an onion purée of 500 g onion cooked in butter and white sauce, thickened with egg yolks, sprinkled with grated cheese and rusk crumbs and browned in the oven. Served in a ring around macaroni tossed in tomato purée and butter.

Erken's mutton chops à la Rose Marie: chops seasoned and fried in butter, topped with 1 cm of spinach purée, warmed 5 minutes in the oven, arranged in a wreath with mushrooms topped with anchovy-wrapped olives, and the pan juices poured around.

Erken's mutton chops à la Saint Cloud (1914): neat, trimmed lamb chops seasoned and fried 4–5 minutes on each side in 100 g browned butter. Served with the pan juices and a dessert spoon of onion sauce made from 175 g onion reduced in milk with peppercorns, nutmeg and sugar, strained and thickened with a roux and boiling milk.

Sweetbreads à la financière from Erken 1914: blanched veal sweetbreads are sliced, larded with pork fat, and glazed in the oven with jus and port. Served on fried bread croutons with slices of beef tongue and a reduced sauce of stock, port, tomato purée, and truffles with olives, mushrooms, and veal meatballs.

Braised sheep's tongues (langues de mouton braisées) from Erken's Stor kokebok 1914: the tongues are soaked, blanched, browned, and braised tender on root vegetables with pork and meat stock, skinned, split lengthwise, glazed in a hot oven, and served on creamed spinach with brown sauce.

A cooked salted ox tongue is cut into slices, floured, covered with truffle meat forcemeat and thin pork, fried slowly in butter, and served with Madeira sauce.

Boiled salted beef tongue is sliced, breaded in egg and rusk crumbs, quickly fried in browned butter, and served with sautéed mushrooms and mushroom or tomato sauce.

Basic instructions for veal sweetbread from Erken 1914: soaking for 3–4 hours in salted water, slow heating to the boiling point, 10 minutes of gentle poaching, cooling in cold water, trimming, and light pressing.

Erken's basic recipe (1914) for breaded calf's brain: the brains are soaked, heated slowly to the boiling point, cleaned of skin and fibers, given a boil, cooked 20 minutes in a spiced court bouillon with onion, bay leaf, vinegar and root vegetables, halved, breaded in egg and rusk crumbs and fried golden brown in butter. Serve

Beef à la mode from Erken's Stor kokebok 1914: 1.5 kg boneless beef larded with spice-dipped pork strips, dredged, browned in butter, and simmered 1 hour covered. The stock is strained and used in a brown cream sauce with sugar and vinegar.

Braised entrecôte from Erken 1914: 1.5 kg sirloin larded with strips of pork fat, braised in a cast-iron pot with onion, carrot, herbs, bouillon and madeira, served sliced with strained jus and a garnish of stuffed tomatoes, salad, mushrooms and roasted potatoes.

A French-inspired festive dish from Erken 1914: 3 cm thick slices of beef sirloin fried in butter and layered with slices of boiled salted ox tongue and goose liver on a warm platter, sprinkled with chopped truffles, doused with madeira sauce and garnished with peas, scooped yellow and white root vegetables and balls of asparagus butter.

Entrecôte from Erken 1914: 3 cm thick slices of sirloin are seasoned, browned in butter and finished in espagnole sauce, bouillon and madeira. Served around a ragout of macaroni boiled in bouillon and mixed with boiled salted ham and chopped truffles.

Erken's basic recipe for grilled entrecôte: the meat is brushed with oil or melted butter and grilled about 15 minutes over clear, smoke-free embers on a well-heated, greased grill, turned with tongs. Then dripped with 20 g butter, salted and peppered, and served at once on a warm platter with cress and scraped radish.

Beef tenderloin larded with bacon, poached 25 minutes in milk with onion and Maggi, then quickly browned in butter. Served in slices on mashed potatoes or rice with a reduced cream sauce and boiled Brussels sprouts.

Stuffed pork loin from 1914: the loin is boned, bored lengthwise and filled with cooked prunes and thin apple slices, sewn up, browned and roasted for an hour with water in a hot oven. Served with a brown pan-juice sauce with mustard and red wine, apple slices with truffle purée, Brussels sprouts, prunes and French potatoes.

Erken's glazed Bayonne ham (1914): a sugar-cured ham of 5–6 kg is roasted 3–4 hours in the oven with onion, carrot, bay leaf, pepper, lemon, clove, 1 l red wine and 1 l broth, basted constantly, glazed the last half hour with 100 g rusk, 75 g sugar and 50 g melted butter. The juices are reduced with brown sauce. Served

Erken's whole roasted suckling pig (1914): the pig is soaked overnight in salted, vinegared water, rubbed with salt and white pepper, placed on its knees in a roasting pan with boiling water, covered with pats of butter and greased paper and roasted 3–4 hours while brushed with cooking oil for crisp crackling. Sauce of browned pan drippings with red wine and mustard; served with roast potatoes, garnish apples, prunes, chestnuts and sauerkraut.

Erken's boiled smoked ham in aspic (1914): a 5–6 kg ham is soaked overnight, gently boiled about 4 hours, cooled in the stock, the rind removed, and the ham glazed with meat aspic and decorated with aspic shapes and stuffed olives. A paper frill around the bone. Served cold with Madeira sauce. If the bone is to come out, the ham is taken up warm, the bone removed, and the ham pressed in a cloth.

Prague Ham I from Erken's Stor kokebok 1914: a lightly smoked ham of 5–6 kg is soaked for a full day, encased in a dough of 1 kg rye flour and water, and baked 3 hours in a hot oven rind-side up without opening the oven door; the dough is removed at once and the ham is served with sauerkraut and fried potatoes.

Erken's roast ribbe from 1914: 3 kg pork belly is cracked at the bones, soaked for an hour, rubbed with salt and pepper, roasted rind-side up over 2 dl boiling water in a hot oven about 2 hours; sauce as for baked ham.

Danish beef from Erken 1914: ground beef ground together with boiled potatoes, seasoned with salt, pepper, and grated onion, thinned with water or milk, formed into round patties, and fried in browned butter. Served with lettuce, cress, and fried potato straws.

Swedish beefsteak from Erken's Great Cookbook (1914): a beef mixture ground three times, stirred with egg yolk, milk, onion, and beet vinegar, with cooked potatoes and beets folded in, shaped into patties and fried in browned butter. Served with stuffed cucumbers and fried tomatoes.

Bifkarbonade beef patties from Erken 1914: 1 kg beef shoulder, 500 g veal, and 250 g suet ground 4 times, mixed with browned onion, salt, pepper, sugar, and 3 egg yolks, with 3 stiffly beaten egg whites folded in. Shaped into round patties or square pieces and fried in browned butter.

Erken's browned cabbage with meat filling (1914): finely shredded cabbage is browned in butter and sugar, moistened with meat stock, arranged around a mound of ground meat in the pot and left to simmer under a lid for two hours. Served with brown sauce.

Erken's stuffed leeks (1914): pre-cooked leeks fully encased in meat farce and either simmered in thin meat stock wrapped in cloth or breaded in egg and rusk and browned in butter. Garnished with parsley and glazed pearl onions.

Mock hare from Erken 1914: a forcemeat of ground beef and pork with ground rusk, eggs, sour cream and spices, shaped like a hare, browned in butter and slow-roasted in the oven about 45 minutes while basting with meat stock. The gravy is strained and served on the side.

Erken's basic recipe for pan-fried beef steak of tenderloin or top round with butter-browned onion and a jus from stock, from Stor kokebok 1914, page 173.

Erken 1914: beef slices browned in butter with chopped mushroom, brushed with meat glaze, arranged in a ring around creamed spinach with béarnaise sauce enriched with meat glaze poured around.

Erken 1914: beef slices seared quickly on one side, cooled, coated with mushroom purée blended with veal or chicken forcemeat, returned to the pan, and finished cooking just before serving; arranged on a rice or potato ring with mushroom ragout, brushed with meat glaze, madeira sauce alongside.

Erken 1914: beef slices fried 3 minutes per side, a sauce of pan butter, flour, water, tomato purée, wine, and coloring boiled up with roasted chestnuts and olives; chopped mushroom sprinkled over, garnished with lettuce and cress.

Beefsteak with horseradish from Erken 1914: beef slices pan-fried and served with balls of horseradish butter (butter and grated horseradish), coarsely shaved horseradish on top, and pan juices around.

Beefsteak with tomatoes from Erken 1914: beef slices browned in a dry pan, fried in butter for 6–8 minutes, topped with a fried, seasoned tomato slice and parsley on each piece, and served with thick tomato sauce mixed with the pan juices.

"Tobbington" from Erken's Stor kokebok (1914, p. 198): a baked dish of a thick butter-flour roux thinned with vegetable stock, mixed with finely sliced cooked ham, cooked carrots and white roots, egg yolks, spices and stiffly beaten egg whites. Baked in a greased mold in a hot oven for 3/4 hour and served with a sharp brown sa

Bankekjøtt from Erken's Stor kokebok (1914): pounded slices of beef chuck or round browned in fat and simmered 1 1/2 hours in a brown sauce with onion, bay leaf, and peppercorns.

Benløse fugler from Erken's Stor kokebok (1914): ground beef chuck is pressed thin into 12 portions, filled with beef marrow or suet, seasoned with salt, pepper, ginger, and cloves, rolled, browned in butter, and simmered in a brown gravy finished with sour cream.

Beef à la lapskaus (a Norwegian meat-and-potato stew): 1 kg of trimmed meat and about 700 g of diced potatoes are browned separately in butter with onion, pepper, and salt, then cooked together, covered, in boiling water for 1–1 1/2 hours.

Fricco, Spanish style: beef in small pieces layered with potato slices, onion, butter, salt, pepper and 1 dl sour cream in a greased mold with a tight lid, cooked in a water bath about 2 hours.

Erken's goulash: 1.5 kg of cubed beef is browned with pork fat and onion, simmered 1.5 hours with paprika, tomatoes and a little water, then potatoes and the rest of the water are added until the stew thickens on its own.

A whole, half-cooked head of cauliflower encased in meat forcemeat, tied in a flour-dusted cloth and simmered for half an hour; served with cauliflower florets and tomato, béarnaise, or hollandaise sauce.

Paper-thin slices of boiled or roasted beef doused with an egg-yolk-thickened milk sauce, sprinkled with parsley and garnished with stuffed cucumbers or fried tomatoes.

Erken's småbiff: cold roast and cold potatoes in small cubes browned crisp in butter and seasoned with salt, pepper, and finely chopped onion.

Erken's baked hachis (1914): baked potatoes are hollowed out, the potato flesh mixed with chopped roast or boiled meat, butter, onion, parsley, pickle and tomato purée, filled back into the skins with a brown sauce cooked with onion, white wine and vinegar, and gratinated 10 minutes in a hot oven.

Erken's hash from 1914: chopped boiled or fried meat in a brown butter-and-flour sauce with onion, anchovy, bouillon, sherry, parsley, and pickled cucumber. Served with fried white-bread points, mushrooms or potatoes, and macaroni with tomato sauce.

German labskaus (Erken 1914): leftover roast diced and browned in butter with potatoes and onion, cooked together with pre-cooked cabbage, carrots and celeriac plus 2.5 dl gravy into a thick stew.

Erken's guide to deep-frying: the fat is hot enough when it stops bubbling and begins to smoke (about 200 °C), 250 °C for very crisp things. The food must be fully breaded with rusk crumbs, completely covered by fat, fried in small batches, and set on paper or a cloth afterward.

Erken's basic recipe for clarifying beef tallow into cooking fat: 2.5 kg tallow soaked for 4 hours, boiled with 1 liter of water covered, then uncovered until the cracklings are crisp, strained, and stored in a crock.

A variant of fat rendering: 3 parts beef or mutton tallow to 1 part lard, treated as in the previous recipe. 1.5 kg tallow yields about 1 kg rendered fat.

Erken's glazed ham (jambon de Bayonne glacé) from 1914: sugar-cured smoked ham is soaked half an hour, poached about 3 hours, partly cooled in the stock, and the rind is skinned off. For party use a piece is cut out, sliced and laid back into shape. Covered with a ½ cm layer of powdered sugar that is caramelized.

Erken's Prague Ham II from 1914: a lightly smoked ham is soaked for a full day, simmered about 3 hours, trimmed, glazed with powdered sugar, wrapped in rye-flour dough, and baked until the dough is browned. Port wine is poured in through a hole at the end. Served with spinach, peas, or Brussels sprouts.

Erken's basic recipe for meat soup: 1.5 kg beef with bones is simmered slowly in 4 l salted water for about 3.5 hours, the stock is strained and skimmed, parsley and boiled root vegetables are added; the meat is served separately with horseradish sauce.

Macaroni ragout: 200 g cooked, cut-up macaroni is heated with 100 g ham or tongue and 12 button mushrooms in about 4 dl tomato sauce; used as a filling for steamed meat cutlets.