Sauser

Classic brown chaud-froid sauce (Erken 1914) for glazing meat on the cold table: 1 l brown stock sauce and 1 dl truffle liquor are reduced with 4 dl meat aspic until the mixture is reduced by a third, seasoned with spices and madeira, strained and stirred cold. Made the day before and gently melted for use; must be thick enough to coat the meat.

Cold chaud-froid sauce from 1914: white sauce and aspic are heated and blended with soaked gelatin, strained, and seasoned with cream, spinach green and meat glaze. Used to coat cold meat and poultry.

Variant from Erken 1914: white chaud-froid sauce colored with tomato purée or paprika and used as a pink glazing sauce on the cold table.

An English variant of Erken's apple sauce with horseradish (1914): apple purée with sugar and grated horseradish, without cream, with the juice of 1–2 oranges added and warmed through without boiling.

Cold applesauce from Erken's Stor kokebok (1914): apples cooked in water, pressed to a sauce, seasoned with sugar and grated horseradish, and folded with an equal amount of stiffly whipped cream. Served with goose and duck.

Mock mayonnaise from Erken's Stor kokebok 1914: a cold roux-based sauce of butter, flour, and water is stirred with egg yolks, mustard, seasonings, vinegar, lemon, and oil, and finished with stiffly whipped cream.

Cauliflower sauce from 1914: a butter roux thinned with meat stock, boiled 10 minutes, thickened with egg yolk and cream, seasoned with nutmeg, and boiled cauliflower divided into small pieces served in the sauce.

Bread sauce (sauce au pain) from Erken 1914: milk simmered with a clove-studded onion and crumbled white bread for 20 minutes, strained off the onion and finished with butter, cream, salt and pepper. Served with poultry and game.

Brown mushroom sauce (1914): butter and flour are browned slowly, thinned with veal bouillon and mushroom liquor, simmered for an hour and seasoned with salt, pepper, sherry and canned mushrooms.

Curry sauce from 1914: a butter roux with curry and finely chopped celery thinned with warm stock or milk, simmered 10 minutes, strained and brought to a boil again.

Onion sauce / sauce Soubise from Erken 1914: blanched and steamed chopped onion cooked with white sauce and meat stock for half an hour, pressed through a sieve, and finished with cream, butter, sugar, salt, and pepper.

Onion sauce with tomatoes from Erken 1914: 3 dl onion sauce (Soubise) cooked together with 1 dl tomato purée for 5 minutes.

A simple sauce from Erken 1914: 120 g butter is browned to a light brown, 2 tbsp finely chopped parsley is stirred in, and the butter is poured at once over the dish or served in a sauce boat.

Chateaubriand butter: white wine reduced with onion, bay leaf and mushroom, then with veal stock, strained and stirred cold together with maître d'hôtel butter and chopped tarragon. Served with grilled meat.

Classic hollandaise from Erken's Stor kokebok 1914: a reduced vinegar reduction, egg yolks whisked in a water bath and 300 g butter added a teaspoon at a time, seasoned with lemon juice.

A hollandaise variant with fish stock, bay leaf and peppercorn: 40 g butter is creamed white in a water bath, 1 tsp potato starch and 5 egg yolks are stirred in, seasoned with lemon juice, stock, salt and 25 g cold butter. For fish.

Maître d'hôtel butter: creamed butter with finely chopped parsley, a few drops of lemon juice, white pepper, and salt.

Maltaise sauce: a hollandaise/mousseline sauce without cream, made with 350 g butter and 3 egg yolks, flavored with the juice and grated zest of a blood orange; for asparagus and artichoke.

Combined butter-and-flour thickening (beurre manié): equal parts butter and flour kneaded together and stirred into the sauce in small portions; simmered 5 minutes. Used when you have no roux on hand.

Blood thickening for game and poultry sauces: the blood is mixed with lukewarm water, vinegar or lemon to prevent coagulation, strained and stirred into the sauce a few minutes before serving.

Brown roux: equal parts butter and flour browned together slowly in a cast-iron pot to a dark brown color. Used for brown sauces.

Egg yolk liaison: egg yolks beaten thick with a little cream/milk/stock, tempered with hot sauce and strained into the sauce, which is kept just below boiling. Must not boil.

Erken's white roux: equal parts butter and flour are stirred over low heat for 10–15 minutes without taking on color, cooled a little and thinned with liquid. The basis for pale sauces.

Starch thickening: arrowroot, cornstarch or potato starch is stirred into a little cold liquid, stirred into the boiling sauce and cooked at least 2 minutes so the starch is cooked through.

Erken's simple brown gravy (1914): a browned butter-and-flour roux thinned with 1.5 l meat pan juices, cooked 5 minutes, optionally enriched with 1 dl heavy cream, seasoned with salt and pepper.

Brown tomato sauce from Erken (1914): ham is sauteed in butter with onion and white pepper, flour is browned in, thinned with 1 l brown bouillon and tomatoes/tomato paste, simmered 15 min, strained and seasoned with 1 dl white wine, salt and pepper.

Demi-glace from Erken 1914: brown sauce and brown broth are reduced hard to about 1 dl, kept warm in a water bath, and finished with sherry.

Erken's madeira sauce I: slow-browned butter and wheat flour thinned with 5 dl pan juices, cooked 10 minutes, seasoned with 1 dl madeira, salt and cayenne and given a boil.

Erken's madeira sauce II: ½ liter brown sauce reduced over high heat until nearly stiff, taken off the heat, 1 dl madeira stirred in, the sauce strained and kept warm without boiling; often with truffles.

Erken's olive sauce: the olive flesh is peeled off the pits in a spiral, the pits are boiled 10 min in 5 dl pan juices, which are strained and used to thin a well-browned roux of 30 g butter and 30 g flour; the olives steep in the finished sauce without boiling.

A roux-based white sauce of 60 g butter and 60 g flour thinned with 1 liter of stock or milk, simmered ½ hour, seasoned with 1 dl Madeira and salt; cooked asparagus is warmed through in the sauce without boiling.

Erken's basic recipe for white sauce/béchamel 1914: milk and light stock steeped with onion, parsley and spices, thinned into a butter roux of 60 g butter and 60 g flour, simmered 20 minutes and strained.

Rich white sauce (béchamel) from Erken 1914 where veal and onion are browned in butter, thinned with milk, strained and finished with cream, lemon juice and cold butter.

Caper sauce: a white base sauce of 40 g butter and 40 g flour thinned with 1/2 l milk or stock, simmered 10 minutes and seasoned with capers, lemon/vinegar, salt, pepper and 1 dl cream.

A light parsley sauce from Erken 1914: a roux of 30 g butter and flour thinned with 5 dl boiling water, enriched with two egg yolks, cream and lemon juice, strained and mounted with 60 g cold butter and chopped parsley. For boiled fish.

Classic light mustard sauce from Erken's Stor kokebok 1914: a butter roux thinned with boiling water, thickened with four egg yolks, cream, and lemon juice, seasoned with mustard, and mounted with cold butter. Kept warm in a water bath and must not boil.

Diplomat sauce (sauce diplomate) from Erken 1914: a roux-based sauce of 40 g butter and flour thinned with chicken stock and cream, simmered 10 minutes and finished with lobster butter, anchovy butter, shellfish (shrimp, crayfish or lobster) and finely sliced truffles.

Lobster sauce from Erken's Stor kokebok 1914: lobster roe is rubbed with butter into lobster butter and sieved, a white sauce is cooked 5 min with cream, seasoned with lobster butter, sherry, paprika and salt, and cut-up lobster meat is added. Kept warm in a water bath.

Crayfish sauce from Erken 1914: the shells of 36 boiled crayfish pounded with 125 g butter, boiled 1 hour in 2 liters of stock with parsley; the stock is strained, the crayfish butter skimmed off and made into a roux with 40 g flour, reduced, enriched with cream and cold butter, seasoned with sherry, paprika and salt. The crayfish tails are added at the end.

Oyster sauce (sauce aux huîtres) from Erken 1914: a roux-based sauce of 60 g butter and flour thinned with chicken stock, fish stock, oyster liquor, lemon juice and cream, simmered ¼–½ hour, strained and enriched with 2 egg yolks, cold butter and cream, with 12–18 oysters in it. Served with fish fillets.

Erken's shrimp sauce from 1914: white base sauce reduced with cream and fish stock to 5 dl, seasoned with shrimp butter, shrimp, sherry, paprika, and salt, kept warm in a water bath. Served with fish.

Erken's gooseberry sauce (sauce aux groseilles vertes) from 1914: a butter-thickened sauce let down with water, liaisoned with egg yolks, cream, and lemon, blended with a purée of green gooseberries cooked with white wine and sugar, finished with cold butter. Served with mackerel and fish fillets.

Homemade anchovy essence from Erken 1914: anchovies are pounded and strained, the remnants boiled out with water, mace, and cayenne for half an hour, strained and mixed with the purée, brought to a boil with vinegar, and steeped 10 min. Bottled cold in small bottles and stored cold.

Béarnaise essence from Erken's Stor kokebok (1914): tarragon vinegar, white wine, parsley, onion, whole pepper, allspice, paprika, carrot, lemon, and leek boiled 20 min covered, strained, boiled 10 min more, and bottled hot.

Erken's mushroom ketchup: 2 kg unwashed mushrooms are rubbed clean with salt, ground, layered with 50 g salt in a jar for 3 days with daily stirring, cooked 1 hour in a water bath, strained without pressing, the juice mixed with whole pepper and cayenne and simmered gently 3 hours in a water bath, strained 2–3 times and bottled cold.

Erken's tomato ketchup from 1914: 4.5 l peeled tomatoes reduced slowly by half with vinegar, salt, sugar, cayenne, mace, celery seed and cinnamon, pressed through a colander, reheated and bottled, then corked and sealed with wax.

Walnut ketchup (Erken 1914): 100 crushed green walnuts steep for 8 days in 1 l vinegar with 90 g salt; the brine is strained and simmered 40 min with anchovies, onion, horseradish, spices and port, then strained cold and bottled.

Béarnaise sauce with tomatoes: a light béarnaise sauce with 4 tbsp tomato purée added, plus paprika and salt to taste.

Erken's hollandaise I (1914) is a stable, flour-thickened hollandaise variant: a flour base of 25 g flour and 2.5 dl water is boiled and cooled, then 100 g half-melted butter, 4 egg yolks and 1.5 dl asparagus or fish stock are whisked in before the sauce is warmed until it thickens and seasoned with citric acid and salt.

Light béarnaise sauce: egg yolks are stirred with béarnaise essence and pan juices, whisked over a water bath while butter is added a teaspoon at a time, seasoned with parsley and spinach coloring. Served with roast meat and poultry.

Warm béarnaise sauce: egg yolks are whisked thick with béarnaise essence, parsley and broth, warmed in a water bath while whisking constantly, and cold butter is whisked in a teaspoon at a time. It must be stirred until serving and left uncovered.

Fish aspic made from 1 liter of fish stock, lemon, 25 g gelatin, and egg white/eggshell for clarifying; made like meat aspic and can be tinted pink with food coloring or yellow with saffron.

Erken's madeira jus: 1 liter rich pan juices reduced with 1¼ dl madeira to a thick sauce; can optionally be thickened with 1 tsp sago flour.

Erken's basic recipe for a brown jus for sauces: beef, veal shank, ham, and onion browned in butter and cooked 4–5 hours, strained and degreased. Makes 3/4–1 liter.

Game jus is made from cut-up and crushed game scraps (shoulder, breastbone, poultry carcass) browned in butter and cooked like ordinary jus for sauces.

Erken's homemade mustard from 1914: mustard powder, wheat flour, and salt are stirred with warm water into a smooth paste; chopped onion is cooked 10 minutes with vinegar, mushroom ketchup, and anchovy essence, mixed in, and simmered 2–3 minutes. Cooled completely, bottled in small bottles with a tight cork, and stored cold and dry.

Spinach green (beurre colorant vert) from Erken 1914: 500 g spinach is cleaned, the juice wrung out, the spinach dried and pounded with half its weight in dairy butter, pressed through a sieve, and stored cold as a natural green food color for sauces.

Erken's cranberry sauce from 1914: 1 liter cranberries is cooked out covered with 1½ liters water, pressed through a sieve, the purée thinned with the berry juice to the right consistency and seasoned with sugar. An accompanying sauce for game and poultry.