Sauces

Brown chaud-froid sauce (Erken 1914) for glazing meat on the cold table: brown stock sauce and truffle liquor reduced with aspic, strained, stirred cold.

Cold chaud-froid sauce with spinach green, 1914: white sauce and aspic blended with gelatin, cream and spinach green. Used to coat cold meat and poultry.

Variant from Erken 1914: white chaud-froid sauce colored with tomato purée or paprika and used as a pink glazing sauce on the cold table.

English apple sauce with horseradish (Erken 1914): apple purée with sugar and grated horseradish, no cream, orange juice added and warmed without boiling.

Cold apple sauce with horseradish from Erken (1914): apple purée with sugar and grated horseradish, folded with whipped cream. Served with goose and duck.

Mock mayonnaise from Erken's 1914 cookbook: cold roux of butter, flour and water with egg yolks, mustard, vinegar and oil, finished with whipped cream.

Cauliflower sauce from 1914: butter roux with meat stock, thickened with egg yolk and cream, seasoned with nutmeg, with boiled cauliflower pieces.

Bread sauce (sauce au pain) from Erken 1914: milk simmered with clove-studded onion and crumbled bread, strained, finished with butter and cream. For game.

Brown mushroom sauce from Erken (1914): slowly browned butter and flour thinned with veal bouillon and mushroom liquor, simmered an hour, with sherry.

Curry sauce from 1914: butter roux with curry and finely chopped celery, thinned with warm stock or milk, simmered 10 minutes and strained.

Onion sauce (sauce Soubise) from Erken 1914: blanched chopped onion cooked with white sauce and stock, sieved, finished with cream, butter and sugar.

Onion sauce with tomatoes from Erken 1914: 3 dl onion sauce (Soubise) cooked together with 1 dl tomato purée for 5 minutes.

Browned butter from Erken 1914: 120 g butter browned light, 2 tbsp chopped parsley stirred in, poured at once over the dish or served in a sauce boat.

Chateaubriand butter from Erken (1914): white wine reduced with onion and mushroom, then veal stock, stirred cold with maître d'hôtel butter and tarragon.

Hollandaise II from Erken's 1914 cookbook: vinegar reduction and egg yolks whisked in a water bath, 300 g butter added by the teaspoon, with lemon.

Hollandaise III from Erken (1914) with fish stock, bay leaf and peppercorn: butter creamed white over a water bath, egg yolks added. For fish.

Maître d'hôtel butter: creamed butter with finely chopped parsley, a few drops of lemon juice, white pepper, and salt.

Maltaise sauce from Erken (1914): hollandaise without cream, flavored with the juice and zest of a blood orange. For asparagus and artichoke.

Beurre manié from Erken's 1914 cookbook: equal parts butter and flour kneaded together and stirred into the sauce in small portions; simmered 5 minutes.

Blood thickening for game and poultry sauces, Erken 1914: blood mixed with lukewarm water and vinegar or lemon, strained and stirred in before serving.

Brown roux: equal parts butter and flour browned together slowly in a cast-iron pot to a dark brown color. Used for brown sauces.

Egg yolk liaison from Erken's 1914 cookbook: yolks beaten with a little cream, milk or stock, tempered with hot sauce and strained in. Must not boil.

White roux from Erken's 1914 cookbook: equal parts butter and flour stirred over low heat 10–15 minutes without color, then thinned. Base for pale sauces.

Starch thickening from Erken's 1914 cookbook: arrowroot, cornstarch or potato starch stirred into cold liquid, added to boiling sauce and cooked 2 minutes.

Simple brown gravy from Erken (1914): browned butter-and-flour roux thinned with meat pan juices, cooked 5 minutes, optionally with cream, seasoned.

Brown tomato sauce from Erken (1914): ham and onion sautéed in butter, flour browned in, thinned with bouillon and tomatoes, simmered 15 min, white wine.

Demi-glace from Erken 1914: brown sauce and brown broth are reduced hard to about 1 dl, kept warm in a water bath, and finished with sherry.

Madeira sauce I from Erken's 1914 cookbook: slow-browned butter and flour thinned with pan juices, cooked 10 minutes, seasoned with Madeira and cayenne.

Madeira sauce II from Erken (1914): brown sauce reduced until nearly stiff, Madeira stirred in, strained, kept warm without boiling; often with truffles.

Olive sauce from Erken (1914): olive flesh peeled off the pits, pits boiled in pan juices that thin a browned roux; olives steep in the sauce unboiled.

Asparagus sauce from Erken (1914): white roux sauce thinned with stock or milk, seasoned with Madeira; cooked asparagus warmed in it without boiling.

White sauce I (béchamel) from Erken's 1914 cookbook: milk and light stock steeped with onion and parsley, thinned into a butter roux, simmered 20 minutes.

Rich white sauce (béchamel) from Erken 1914: veal and onion browned in butter, thinned with milk, strained, finished with cream, lemon and cold butter.

Caper sauce (sauce aux câpres) from Erken (1914): white base sauce of butter, flour and milk or stock, seasoned with capers, lemon or vinegar and cream.

Light parsley sauce from Erken 1914: roux thinned with water, enriched with egg yolks, cream and lemon, finished with cold butter and parsley. For fish.

Light mustard sauce from Erken (1914): butter roux thickened with egg yolks, cream and lemon, seasoned with mustard and finished with cold butter.

Bread thickening from Erken's Stor kokebok (1949): a slice of bread without the crust dipped in cold water and whisked into stock or pan juices to thicken it.

Chutney from Erken's Stor kokebok (1949): tart apples, raisins, brown sugar, onion and spices cooked in wine vinegar for two hours and put in jars.

Dill sauce from Erken (1949): a light sauce of butter, flour and stock with chopped dill, vinegar and sugar, thickened with egg yolk and cold butter.

Vegetable green colouring from Erken's Stor kokebok (1949): herbs and greens steeped for 14 days in boiling water in a bottle, strained and bottled.

Salad Dressing I from Erken's Stor kokebok (1949): a creamy dressing of cooked and raw egg yolk, oil, vinegar and whipped cream, poured over the salad.

Sauce for beef fillet and tournedos from Erken's Stor kokebok (1949): brown sauce with stock, red wine, tomato purée, thyme, cold butter and cooked marrow.

Diplomat sauce (sauce diplomate) from Erken 1914: roux sauce with chicken stock and cream, finished with lobster and anchovy butter, shellfish, truffles.

Lobster sauce from Erken's 1914 cookbook: white sauce with cream, lobster butter, sherry and paprika, with cut-up lobster meat, kept warm in a water bath.

Crayfish sauce from Erken 1914: shells boiled with butter into crayfish butter, made into a roux, enriched with cream and sherry, tails added last.

Oyster sauce from Erken 1914: roux sauce thinned with chicken and fish stock, oyster liquor and cream, enriched with egg yolks, with oysters. For fish.

Shrimp sauce (sauce crevettes) from Erken 1914: white sauce reduced with cream and fish stock, seasoned with shrimp butter, shrimp, sherry and paprika.

Gooseberry sauce from Erken 1914: butter-thickened sauce enriched with egg yolks, blended with green gooseberry purée. For mackerel and fish fillets.

Lobster sauce II from Erken's Big Cookbook (1949): a cold sauce of butter, flour and cream with lobster roe, served with lobster pieces for fish in aspic.

Cold game sauce from Erken's Big Cookbook (1949): strong gravy with gelatine, chilled and folded with whipped cream, for cold fowl and game pâté.

Five-minute mayonnaise from Erken's Big Cookbook (1949): egg yolks whisked with near-boiling water and warm oil, seasoned with vinegar and mustard.

Mayonnaise for cold meat from Erken's Big Cookbook (1949): mayonnaise made from two egg yolks stirred with tomato purée and grated horseradish.

Mayonnaise "to have to hand" from Erken's Big Cookbook (1949): a cooked mayonnaise base of cream, vinegar and egg yolks that keeps cold in jars.

Ham sauce from Erken's Big Cookbook (1949): redcurrant jelly melted in a water bath and whisked with mustard, lemon juice, red wine and bitter-orange extract.

Homemade anchovy essence from Erken 1914: anchovies pounded and strained, remnants boiled with mace and cayenne, mixed with the purée and vinegar.

Béarnaise essence from Erken (1914): tarragon vinegar, white wine, parsley, onion, pepper, allspice, carrot, lemon and leek boiled, strained, bottled hot.

Mushroom ketchup from Erken (1914): ground mushrooms salted for 3 days, cooked in a water bath, strained, the juice simmered with pepper and cayenne.

Tomato ketchup from Erken (1914): peeled tomatoes reduced by half with vinegar, sugar, cayenne and spices, pressed through a colander and bottled.

Walnut ketchup (Erken 1914): crushed green walnuts steeped 8 days in vinegar and salt; liquid simmered with anchovies, onion, horseradish, port.

Béarnaise sauce with tomatoes: a light béarnaise sauce with 4 tbsp tomato purée added, plus paprika and salt to taste.

Hollandaise I from Erken (1914), a stable flour-thickened hollandaise: butter, egg yolks and asparagus or fish stock whisked into a flour base, warmed.

Light béarnaise sauce from Erken (1914): egg yolks whisked over a water bath with béarnaise essence, butter added by the teaspoon. For roast meat.

Warm béarnaise sauce from Erken (1914): egg yolks whisked with béarnaise essence and parsley in a water bath, cold butter whisked in by the teaspoon.

Fish aspic from Erken's 1914 cookbook: 1 liter of fish stock, lemon and 25 g gelatin clarified with egg white; can be tinted pink or yellow with saffron.

Erken's madeira jus: 1 liter rich pan juices reduced with 1¼ dl madeira to a thick sauce; can optionally be thickened with 1 tsp sago flour.

Erken's 1914 basic recipe for a brown jus for sauces: beef, veal shank, ham and onion browned in butter and cooked 4–5 hours, strained. Makes 3/4–1 liter.

Game jus is made from cut-up and crushed game scraps (shoulder, breastbone, poultry carcass) browned in butter and cooked like ordinary jus for sauces.

Caper sauce II for fish from Erken's Big Cookbook (1949): a sauce of butter, flour and cream with capers and vinegar, finished with cold butter.

Cheese sauce from Erken's Big Cookbook (1949): a simple sauce of butter, flour and milk with grated cheese sprinkled over, for fish, veal and cauliflower.

Cheese sauce for fish from Erken's Big Cookbook (1949): white sauce made with fish stock and cream, finished with cayenne and plenty of grated sharp cheese.

Shrimp sauce II (sauce crevettes) from Erken (1949): white sauce with cream, fish stock, shrimp butter, shrimp and sherry, kept warm in a bain-marie.

Homemade mustard from Erken (1914): mustard powder, flour and salt stirred to a paste, mixed with onion cooked in vinegar and anchovy essence.

Spinach green (beurre colorant vert) from Erken 1914: spinach pounded with butter and sieved, stored cold as a natural green food color for sauces.

Asparagus butter from Erken's Big Cookbook (1949): dairy butter whipped white in a warmed bowl and served with asparagus, boiled vegetables and soufflés.

Brown sauce (sauce espagnole) from Erken's Big Cookbook (1949): browned butter and flour with brown stock, mirepoix, tomato purée and sherry.

White wine sauce from Erken's Stor kokebok (1949): sugar, egg yolks and white wine whisked over a water bath until frothy and four times the volume.

Potato thickening from Erken's Big Cookbook (1949): mashed potatoes pressed through a purée press and stirred into the stock of a sauce, soup or stew.

Mustard sauce (sauce moutarde) from Erken's Big Cookbook (1949): a sauce of butter, flour and water bound with egg yolks, cream, lemon juice and mustard.

Cranberry sauce from Erken (1914): cranberries cooked with water, sieved, thinned with berry juice and sweetened with sugar. For game and poultry.