Varme og kolde smaaretter

Erken's asparagus bread from 1914: hollowed-out round slices of white bread are filled with an asparagus ragout of butter, flour, meat stock, egg yolk, cream and parsley, fried in butter and served warm as a starter.

Whole boiled cauliflower arranged on a platter with a red-tinted, egg-thickened butter-and-flour sauce and warmed crayfish meat placed around it, garnished with whole boiled crayfish.

Sweetbread ragout from Erken 1914: cleaned, blanched, and half-cooked veal sweetbreads are cut into cubes, browned in butter, thinned with sweetbread stock, seasoned with tomato purée and olives, thickened with sago flour stirred into cream, and finished with salt and sherry; served in puff-pastry cases or croustades.

Erken 1914: poached eggs are placed on toasted white bread, covered with French white sauce, sprinkled with grated cheese mixed with crushed rusk, drizzled with melted butter, and glazed in a hot oven.

A warm small dish from Erken 1914: spinach is creamed in butter, placed in a dish with grated cheese, eggs are cracked over, covered with a French white sauce of butter, flour, milk, fish stock, cheese, and butter, and gratinated in a hot oven until the eggs are cooked.

A variant of Eggs with spinach: creamed spinach in butter, eggs, French white sauce, and grated cheese are gratinated in a hot oven. Only an ingredient list exists in the source; the method follows version I.

Anchovy Bread I from Erken 1914: slices of white bread spread with 100 g butter creamed with 6 mashed anchovies, garnished alternately with 2 hard-boiled egg yolks rubbed with oil or cream and parsley, and with finely cut anchovy.

Anchovy Bread II from Erken's Stor kokebok 1914: slices of white bread browned in butter, with a slice of hard-boiled egg in the middle and halved anchovy fillets around it, cut round right up to the anchovy.

Canapés à l'allemande from Erken 1914: round slices of white bread spread with a cheese butter of butter, grated Swiss cheese and sharp cheese, cream, salt and pepper, topped half with sausage and half with Swiss cheese.

Erken's salmon sandwiches from 1914: round cut-out slices of white bread spread with butter, edged with flaked cooked cold salmon, mayonnaise piped as a star in the center and finely shredded lettuce strips on top.

Cheese and anchovy canapés from Erken 1914: finger-thick slices of white bread generously spread with butter creamed with 60 g grated cheese and a hard-boiled egg yolk, covered with a double cross of anchovy and the openings filled with garnishing jelly, salad or hard-boiled egg.

Round white-bread rounds spread with butter, peeled shrimp arranged in a ring, and a piped mayonnaise star in the center. A simple cold sandwich from Erken's Stor kokebok 1914.

Erken's method for soft-boiled eggs 1914: clean, fresh eggs are lowered in a basket into boiling water that covers them, boiled 3–3½ minutes from the return to a boil, dipped in cold water and served in an egg cozy or napkin.

Eggs with spinach I from Erken 1914: creamed spinach with butter, flour, and cream served on round butter-fried bread rounds with a poached egg on top and parsley sprinkled over.

Erken's supper dish of hard-boiled eggs filled with sieved egg yolk mixed with butter-fried onion and mushroom, covered with white sauce and grated cheese and briefly gratinated in a hot oven.

Erken's basic scrambled eggs: 6 eggs beaten with salt and pepper, stirred into melted butter over moderate heat, finished with 40 g butter and 3 tbsp cream. Served with ham or salmon, or varied with add-ins.

A variant of Erken's scrambled eggs with about 1 dl of shrimp or crayfish stirred in or placed in the center, with 1 tbsp shrimp or crayfish sauce piped in a ring around the platter.

Erken's simple variant of scrambled eggs in which 100 g of chopped mushrooms is stirred into standard scrambled eggs made from 6 eggs, butter, cream, salt, and pepper and cooked gently to a creamy consistency.

Erken's "Cheese with celeriac" (1914): boiled celeriac layered with a white sauce of 60 g butter, 50 g flour and celery stock, with grated cheese between the layers, topped with melted butter and rusk crumbs and gratinated 20 minutes in a hot oven; garnished with hard-boiled eggs and curled celery stalk.

Gratinated celeriac layered with a white sauce of celery stock and grated cheese, topped with melted butter and rusk crumbs, baked about 20 minutes and garnished with hard-boiled eggs and celery stalk. From Erken's Stor kokebok 1914, page 30.

A frozen cheese cream of Parmesan, Swiss cheese, whipped cream and aspic, frozen in a mold, cut into squares and served cold on lightly toasted bread. From Henriette Schønberg Erken's Stor kokebok 1914, the chapter Hot and cold small dishes.

Cheese Puffs I from Erken's Stor kokebok (1914): a choux pastry of 125 g flour, 30 g butter, 2.5 dl boiling water and 4 eggs with grated cheese, shaped into small balls, rolled in cheese and deep-fried. Served in a pyramid with fried parsley.

Cheese Puffs II from Erken's Stor kokebok (1914): a choux pastry of 2.5 dl water, 125 g butter, 125 g flour and 4 small eggs, with 120 g Swiss cheese in cubes stirred in last. The dough is divided into nut-sized pieces and deep-fried light golden brown; served in a pyramid.

Erken's savory cheese cakes (1914): a flour paste of cornstarch and wheat flour cooked with milk, butter and salt, with grated cheese and egg yolks added, and stiffly whipped egg whites folded in. Baked in small greased porcelain or paper molds strewn with rusk crumbs for 15–20 minutes in a hot oven and served at once.

Pigeon breasts are set in aspic in a smooth mold decorated with truffle slices and cooked chestnuts; turned out onto a cold platter and surrounded with chopped aspic. The carcasses are cooked into stock, thickened with sago flour and flavored with madeira and truffle for a sauce served on the side.

A cold small dish from Erken's Stor kokebok 1914: finely chopped smoked herring and hard-boiled eggs (yolk and white separately) are laid in rows on a dish and garnished with lettuce, egg slices, and tomato.

A smooth mold is lined with meat aspic, garnished with capers, truffle and cut-out cooked vegetables, and then filled in layers with neatly sliced goose liver, with a little aspic between each layer that is left to set before the next.

Cold, larded beef tenderloin from Erken's Stor kokebok (1914): cooked pink in a pot with cream and red wine, chilled, sliced, and glazed with madeira aspic, garnished with horseradish and stuffed tomatoes.

Turkey aspic in a ring mold from Erken's Stor kokebok (1914): the turkey is steamed tender and cooled in its stock, the stock is clarified with egg white and eggshells and set with gelatin in a ring mold; arranged with turkey meat in mayonnaise, lettuce, tomato, and hard-boiled egg.

Erken's roulettes of boiled chicken and celeriac bound with a thick, gelatin-set flour sauce seasoned with sherry, chilled, shaped and served cold or breaded and fried.

Base recipe for 60 krustader (crisp Norwegian timbale cases): a thin batter of 125 g wheat flour, 4 dl cold water, 2 dl beer, and 2 eggs rested for half an hour, formed on a heated rosette iron and deep-fried in lard until pale golden and crisp. With troubleshooting, storage, and reusing the fat.

Erken's krustade filling from 1914 with small fish balls, shrimp, asparagus, and peas in a butter-and-flour sauce thinned with meat stock and enriched with egg yolks, cream, sherry, and lemon juice. Spooned into krustader (crisp timbale cases) just before serving.

A krustade filling of white sauce (30 g butter, 30 g flour, 4 dl light stock or cream-milk) simmered for 5 minutes, thickened with egg yolk, then combined with ½ liter of peeled shrimp and 250 g cut-up asparagus that are only warmed through in the sauce. Filled into krustader just before serving.

A krustade filling of cooked chicken meat and button mushrooms in a butter-thickened stock sauce with tomato purée and sherry, enriched with egg yolk. From Erken's Stor kokebok 1914.

A krustade filling (salpicon) of finely cut cooked chicken or duck meat and mushrooms warmed in a butter-thickened tomato sauce. Variant with fresh tomatoes thickened with butter and flour. From Erken's Stor kokebok 1914.

A krustade filling of game meat, salt-cured ham, cooked macaroni, and olives in small cubes, combined with brown sauce (espagnole) and kept warm in a water bath. From Erken's Stor kokebok 1914.

Puff-pastry scallop shells from Erken's Stor kokebok (1914): thin puff pastry is laid over the backs of greased scallop shells, pricked and baked a light golden brown in a hot oven, carefully loosened and filled with a fish, vegetable or meat ragout.

Erken's rissoles de volaille: half-moons of rissole dough or puff pastry filled with finely chopped cooked chicken breast, ham, mushroom and truffle in a thick white sauce, breaded in egg and rusk crumbs and fried in lard, served with fried parsley.

Small puff pastry tartlets blind-baked with paper and rice grains, filled with a cream of finely cut Swiss cheese, egg yolk, salt, sugar and stiffly whipped cream, and baked a further 15 minutes. From Erken's Stor kokebok 1914, page 30.

Vol-au-vent from Erken's Stor kokebok (1914): puff pastry made from 250 g butter and 250 g flour rolled 1.5 cm thick, lined into a mold, blind-baked with rice/peas about 1 hour in a fairly hot oven, brushed with egg white, decorated with puff-pastry leaves and a lid, and filled at serving time with a hot ragout garnished with truffle and cooked crayfish.

Erken's basic recipe for croutons: finger-thick slices of white bread without crust are fried light brown in butter (or lard) and drained on paper. The base for several small dishes in the chapter «Warm and cold small dishes».

Erken's croutons with kidney (1914): cubes of soaked veal kidney stewed in butter with chopped cooked ham, parsley and stock, seasoned with sherry, salt and pepper, filled into hollowed-out and butter-fried white bread slices, with reduced sauce and parsley on top. A warm small dish for 4.

Erken's cold croutons with ham (1914): wedge-shaped white bread slices dipped in melted butter and lightly browned, arranged in a ring on a platter and piped with a forcemeat of finely chopped cooked ham, butter and thick white sauce, garnished with chopped egg white, olives and parsley. For 6.

Erken's description of toast (1914): white bread slices grilled over coals or lightly fried in melted butter, buttered generously at once to stay soft; served fresh without toppings.

Crayfish butter 1914: 60 g crayfish shells and meat (not the tails) pounded with 125 g butter and pressed through a cloth.

Horseradish butter 1914: 200 g butter is creamed with a little boiling water and mixed with 30 g grated horseradish; made like mustard butter.

Shrimp butter from Erken's Stor kokebok 1914: equal parts peeled shrimp and butter pounded with a little lobster color and finely strained; used on canapés. Lobster butter is made the same way.

Mustard butter 1914: 200 g butter is creamed pale with 1 tbsp boiling water, flavored with 1 tsp mustard and a little lemon juice. Used on canapés with ham or tongue.

Erken's basic puff pastry (feuilletage) recipe from 1914: equal parts flour and washed butter, salt and ice-cold water, with repeated rolling and folding in of butter in four rounds. Includes detailed guidance on keeping the work cold, baking with bottom heat, and use for patty shells, tarts and vol-au

Erken's rissole dough of 150 g butter, 3 egg yolks, 1 egg, 460 g wheat flour, salt and 1 tbsp cold water; rolled out to the thickness of a knife's back and used for rissoles and small pastry pies fried in lard.

Erken's basic 1914 tartlet dough: 500 g flour, 250 g butter, 1 dl water, cognac, salt and 2 egg yolks worked together cold, rested 1 hour, rolled thin, and blind-baked in small molds with dried peas until light brown.

Hollowed-out, butter-fried round slices of white bread filled with a shrimp stew in a butter-and-flour sauce thinned with shrimp stock or milk, seasoned with lemon, salt and pepper and thickened with egg yolk. Garnished with parsley and cooked crayfish. A fine starter from Erken's chapter on warm and cold small dishes.

Indian tartlets from Erken 1914: blind-baked tartlet shells filled with a thick mixture of butter, onion, flour, cayenne pepper, lemon, cream and boiled carrot, with one blanched oyster on top, warmed briefly in the oven and served at once.

Crayfish tartlets from Erken 1914: crayfish tails are steeped in oil, butter, onion, white wine, fish stock, tomato purée and parsley for 20 minutes in the oven, filled into tartlets and topped with a Parmesan soufflé of flour, milk, cheese, eggs and butter that is browned a few minutes in a hot oven.

Erken's basic recipe for croquettes and rissoles: a thick stew of roux, meat stock, gelatin, egg yolk, sherry and 500 g finely chopped roast leftovers is cooled completely, shaped into 50 g pieces, breaded in breadcrumbs-egg-breadcrumbs and deep-fried golden brown. Served in a wreath with deep-fried parsley.

Sweetbread roulettes after Erken: boiled veal sweetbreads, mushroom and salted ox tongue in small dice are mixed into a gelatin-set roux sauce with stock and white wine, chilled completely, shaped into round roulettes, breaded in crumbs-egg-crumbs and deep-fried golden brown.

Warm small dish from Erken 1914: a thick slice of boiled, salted and smoked beef tongue per person, topped with a fried egg and ringed with butter-sautéed asparagus beans.

Cold party dish from Erken 1914: slices of cooked salted tongue garnished with cooked root vegetables and parsley, set in clarified meat jelly made from stock, gelatin, egg white, eggshell, scraped raw meat and lemon juice. Sets overnight and is served on a rice base or around Italian salad.

Classic clarified meat aspic from Erken's Stor kokebok 1914: meat stock is clarified with egg white and eggshell, gelatin, lemon and vegetables are added, it is brought to a boil, strained through a cloth and seasoned with wine and optionally coloring. Used for glazing and aspic molds.