How do I keep the kidneys from turning tough?

Let them steep gently in the sauce, covered – they must not boil. The recipe stresses that boiling makes the kidneys hard.

Can I make the dish without white wine?

Yes. The original itself says water can be used instead of wine, and that the mushrooms can be omitted.

Veal Kidney

Finely sliced veal kidneys quickly sautéed with onion, kept warm while a sauce is made from flour, white wine, stock, bay leaf, mushrooms and tomato sauce; the kidneys gently steep in the sauce and are finished with lemon and parsley.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken & Caroline Steen, Kogebog for skole og hjem, 1900-utg. s. 237 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

Innmat var hverdagskost og ble ansett som næringsrikt. Nyrer i vinsaus med tomat og champignon viser fransk-inspirert borgerlig matlaging, der billig råvare fikk et forfinet uttrykk. Tomatsaus var fortsatt en relativ nyhet i 1900.

How to make it

1
Sear the kidneys
Cut the kidneys into fine slices and remove all fat. Brown the butter and sauté the onion in it over low heat. Add the kidneys, salt and pepper and toss over high heat for 3–4 minutes. Lift the kidneys out and keep them warm.
2
Make the sauce
Stir the flour into the pan juices, thin with white wine and stock, and add the bay leaf. Let the finely cut mushrooms cook along for 5–6 minutes. Stir in the tomato sauce and bring to a boil.
3
Steep to finish
Return the kidneys to the sauce, move the pot away from high heat and let it steep gently, covered, for a quarter of an hour (the kidneys must not boil, or they turn tough).
4
Finish
Remove the bay leaf, add the lemon juice and sprinkle over the finely chopped parsley. Finely cut ham is good to add.

Changes from the original

«1 » kjødkraft» viderefører desiliter-enheten (1 dl). Nøkkelen er at nyrene småtrekker, ikke koker, ellers blir de harde. Oppskriften oppgir selv at champignon kan sløyfes og vann kan erstatte vinen.

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Frequently asked questions

How do I keep the kidneys from turning tough?: Let them steep gently in the sauce, covered – they must not boil. The recipe stresses that boiling makes the kidneys hard.
Can I make the dish without white wine?: Yes. The original itself says water can be used instead of wine, and that the mushrooms can be omitted.

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