What is a panade, and why must it be cold?

The panade is a thick binding dough of all-purpose flour, egg yolk, boiling milk, and melted butter, cooked while stirring for 5 minutes. It is sieved through a hair sieve, brought to a boil, and spread out on a greased platter with a little butter on top so it does not dry out. It must be completely cold before it is combined with the forcemeat, otherwise the forcemeat will split.

How do I get the forcemeat as fine as possible?

Use 250 g raw chicken meat, scraped and pounded fine (in 1914 in a mortar, today often a food processor), season with salt, pepper, and a little nutmeg, and add the egg white little by little while stirring constantly. Keep everything cold throughout.

How much cream goes in, and when?

The recipe uses 1/4 liter cream plus 1 1/4 deciliters whipped cream. The whipped cream is folded in gently at the end, so the forcemeat becomes light and airy.

How long does the recipe take?

Allow around 3.5 hours in total for 6 servings – most of it is cooling the panade and resting time, not active work.

Chicken forcemeat II

Name: Chicken forcemeat II
Prep time: 1 h
Cook time: 2 h 30 min
Total time: 3 h 30 min
Yield: 6 servings
Cuisine: Norwegian
Ingredients: 250 g raw chicken meat (without skin and sinews); 2.5 dl cream (added raw, by the teaspoon); 1.25 dl cream (whipped stiff); 1 pcs egg white; 40 g all-purpose flour; 30 g butter (melted); 1 pcs egg yolk; 0.9 dl milk (boiling, a scant deciliter); salt (to taste); pepper (to taste); nutmeg (just a little)

Chicken forcemeat II from Erken's Stor kokebok (1914): finely scraped raw chicken meat is combined with egg white, a cooked and cooled panade of flour, egg yolk, boiling milk, and melted butter, chilled on ice, and thinned with raw and whipped cream. Shaped into quenelles or sausages, optionally filled with salpicon, poached and served with sauce suprême or tomato sauce.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 295 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

The recipe belongs to Erken's series of fine poultry forcemeats, where finely scraped chicken meat is combined with a cooked panade and cream into an airy mass, shaped into quenelles or sausages and cooked gently in water. Such forcemeats were the basis for French-inspired starters in Norwegian upper-class kitchens.

How to make it

1
The meat forcemeat
Scrape the chicken meat fine and pound it well in a mortar. Add salt, pepper, and just a little nutmeg.
2
Work in the egg white
Add the egg white little by little while stirring constantly, until the mass is smooth.
3
The panade
Sift the flour into a saucepan, stir in the egg yolk and spices. Thin little by little with the boiling milk and the melted butter.
4
Cook the panade
Press the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve, pour it back into the pot, and stir over the heat until it boils. Let it boil, stirring, for 5 minutes.
5
Cool
Spread the panade at once over a greased platter and lightly grease the surface so it does not dry out. Let it become completely cold.
6
Combine the mixtures
Combine the meat forcemeat and the cold panade well with the pestle. Set the mass on ice for 2 hours.
7
Thin with cream
Stir the mass for 1 minute with a wooden spoon, add the raw cream by the teaspoon, and finally the whipped cream. If the forcemeat is too soft, add a little more egg white; if too firm, a little more cream.
8
Shape and cook
Shape the forcemeat into quenelles or sausages. If you like, make an incision in them and fill with a bound salpicon, asparagus, or truffles. Cook them gently (poach) in lightly salted, barely simmering water until cooked through.
9
Serving
Arrange with sauce suprême, tomato sauce, or a ragout, ideally with shrimp added.

Changes from the original

Measurements have been converted to modern units (dl, g), the "hair sieve" is replaced by a fine-mesh sieve, and the method has been divided into numbered steps. The cooking method for the quenelles (originally cross-referenced to page 126) is described as poaching in salted water.

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Frequently asked questions

What is a panade, and why must it be cold?: The panade is a thick binding dough of all-purpose flour, egg yolk, boiling milk, and melted butter, cooked while stirring for 5 minutes. It is sieved through a hair sieve, brought to a boil, and spread out on a greased platter with a little butter on top so it does not dry out. It must be completely cold before it is combined with the forcemeat, otherwise the forcemeat will split.
How do I get the forcemeat as fine as possible?: Use 250 g raw chicken meat, scraped and pounded fine (in 1914 in a mortar, today often a food processor), season with salt, pepper, and a little nutmeg, and add the egg white little by little while stirring constantly. Keep everything cold throughout.
How much cream goes in, and when?: The recipe uses 1/4 liter cream plus 1 1/4 deciliters whipped cream. The whipped cream is folded in gently at the end, so the forcemeat becomes light and airy.
How long does the recipe take?: Allow around 3.5 hours in total for 6 servings – most of it is cooling the panade and resting time, not active work.

Equipment for this dish

Meat grinder →Erken ground her own forcemeat – your own grinder lets you control fat and coarseness.Foodstuff.no

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