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Macaroni Salad with Egg Sauce and Ham

Macaroni salad from 1914 with a cooled roux sauce of butter, flour, and meat stock, blended with raw egg yolks, oil added drop by drop, vinegar, and onion juice; tossed with cold macaroni and sprinkled with ham and parsley.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 420 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

The most labor-intensive of the macaroni salads on the page: here a cooled roux-based sauce with meat stock is made, to which egg yolks and oil are added drop by drop, almost like a mayonnaise. A typical finer entremets from Erken's time.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Boil the macaroni

    Put the macaroni into boiling, salted water and cook until tender. Lift it out and cool it well.

  2. 2

    Make the base sauce

    Melt the butter, stir in the flour, and thin with the meat stock. Bring the sauce to a boil, remove it from the heat, and stir until completely cold.

  3. 3

    Finish the sauce

    Stir in the egg yolks and salt. Add the oil drop by drop, then the vinegar, and finally the onion juice.

  4. 4

    Mix and plate

    Fold the cold macaroni into the sauce. Sprinkle finely chopped ham or tongue and finely chopped parsley over the top.

Changes from the original

Measurements converted to modern units; «1 small bowlful» of ham is set at about 2 tbsp. The sauce contains raw egg yolks—today fresh eggs and prompt serving are recommended, or pasteurized yolks. The method has been divided into numbered steps.

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Frequently asked questions

How do I boil the macaroni properly for this salad?
Put the 125 g macaroni into boiling, salted water and cook until tender. Lift it out and cool it well—the sauce is to be mixed with cold macaroni, or it separates easily.
How do I make the egg sauce?
Melt 50 g butter, stir in 35 g wheat flour, thin with 4 dl meat stock, and bring to a boil. Take the pan off the heat and stir until the mixture is cold. Then stir in 4 egg yolks, salt, 3 tablespoons of cooking oil drop by drop, then vinegar, and finally 3 drops of onion juice.
What is the salad garnished with?
A small bowlful of finely chopped ham or tongue is sprinkled over, along with finely chopped parsley.
Where does the recipe come from?
From Henriette Schønberg Erken's «Stor kokebok» (1914), page 420. It serves about 4 and takes around 90 minutes, mostly because the sauce must become completely cold.

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