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Krustader with sweetbreads (croustades au ris de veau)

Erken's krustader with veal sweetbreads (1914): the sweetbreads are soaked, blanched, cleaned, and cooked tender, cut into cubes, and folded into a butter-thickened sauce made from the cooking liquid, enriched with egg yolks and seasoned with salt, pepper, lemon juice, and sherry; filled into krustader (crisp Norwegian timbale cases) and served at once.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 14 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

Veal sweetbreads were a fine and costly ingredient in party food around 1914, and krustader with a sweetbread ragout were among the more elegant small dishes in Erken's cookbook.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Soak the sweetbreads

    Put the sweetbreads in cold water for 1 hour.

  2. 2

    Blanch and clean

    Pour boiling water over the sweetbreads, then place them for 5 minutes in cold water, take them out, and remove all membranes.

  3. 3

    Cook the sweetbreads

    Put the sweetbreads in boiling, salted water — only as much as is needed for the sauce — and cook until tender, about ½ hour. Cool the sweetbreads in the stock.

  4. 4

    Cut up

    Take the sweetbreads out, press them lightly in a clean cloth, and cut them into small squares.

  5. 5

    Make the sauce

    Melt the butter, stir in the flour, and thin with the stock to a thick sauce.

  6. 6

    Enrich with egg yolks

    Thicken the sauce with the well-beaten egg yolks. The sauce must not boil after the egg yolks have been added.

  7. 7

    Season and combine

    Add salt, pepper, lemon juice, and sherry, and mix in the cut-up sweetbreads. Keep the mixture warm in a water bath.

  8. 8

    Serving

    Fill the krustader and serve them at once, set on a platter with a napkin.

Changes from the original

The ingredient list has been reconstructed from the narrow column and set in modern measures (grams, dl, tsp). The method has been divided into numbered steps; "kjøtklæde" (meat cloth) is explained as a clean cloth.

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Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

From19141949Modernised
To19141949Modernised
1914 (proofread, p. 14) → Modernised~84% of the text changedremovedadded
1 par brisler kalvebrissel. 50 gr. smør g smør. 40 gr. hvetemel ¼ l. g hvetemel. 2,5 dl kraft 1 à (kokekraften fra brisselen). 2 eggeblommer stk eggeplommer (1–2, godt vispet). salt (etter smak). pepper (etter smak). 1 teske citronsaft sherry. Brislerne lægges ts sitronsaft. sherry (etter smak). 4 stk krustader (ferdige deigskåler). Legg brislene i vand kaldt vann i 1 time; blancheres, d. v. s. overheldes med time.. Hell kokende vand, lægges derefter vann over brislene, legg dem så 5 minutter i koldt vand, optages, alle hinder fjernes, kaldt vann, ta dem opp og brislerne sættes over varmen fjern alle hinder.. Legg brislene i kokende, saltet vand, kun saa meget vann – bare så mye som vil trænges trengs til sausen, kokes sausen – og kok til den de er mør, møre, omtrent ½ time; avkjøles time. Avkjøl brislene i kraften. Tages op og presses let kraften.. Ta brislene opp, press dem lett i et rent kjøtklæde. Brisselen skjæres op klede og skjær dem i smaa firkanter. Smørret smeltes, irøres melet, spædes små firkanter.. Smelt smøret, rør inn melet og spe med kraften til en tyk saus. Sausen jevnes tykk saus.. Jevn sausen med eggeblommerne, som maa være de godt vispet; sausen maa vispede eggeplommene. Sausen må ikke koke, efter koke etter at eggeblommerne eggeplommene er hat i; den tilsættes krydderier kommet i.. Tilsett salt, pepper, sitronsaft og sherry, og bland inn den opskaarne brissel. Stuingen holdes oppskårne brisselen. Hold stuingen varm i vandbad. Krustaderne serveres straks de er fyldt; de sættes paa fat, hvorpaa er lagt vannbad.. Fyll krustadene og server dem straks, satt på et fat med en serviet. serviett.

Note on Modernised

Ingredienslisten er rekonstruert fra den smale spalten og satt i moderne mål (gram, dl, ts). Fremgangsmåten er delt i nummererte trinn; «kjøtklæde» er forklart som et rent klede.

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Frequently asked questions

Why must the sweetbreads be soaked and blanched first?
The sweetbreads are soaked for 1 hour to draw out blood, and are then blanched by pouring boiling water over them. Next they are placed for 5 minutes in cold water before all membranes are removed. This gives clean, white, firm sweetbreads.
How long should the sweetbreads cook?
They are cooked tender in boiling, salted water for about ½ hour — use only as much water as is needed for the sauce (¼ l stock). The sweetbreads are cooled in the stock, pressed lightly in a clean cloth, and cut into small squares.
How do I make the sauce without it curdling?
Melt 50 g butter, stir in 40 g wheat flour, and thin with ¼ l stock to a thick sauce. Thicken with 1–2 well-beaten egg yolks, and do not let the sauce boil after the egg yolks are added. Season with salt, pepper, 1 teaspoon lemon juice, and sherry.
Where does the recipe come from?
It is from Henriette Schønberg Erken's Stor kokebok (1914), page 14, in the chapter on hot and cold small dishes.

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