Krustader with sweetbreads (croustades au ris de veau)
Erken's krustader with veal sweetbreads (1914): the sweetbreads are soaked, blanched, cleaned, and cooked tender, cut into cubes, and folded into a butter-thickened sauce made from the cooking liquid, enriched with egg yolks and seasoned with salt, pepper, lemon juice, and sherry; filled into krustader (crisp Norwegian timbale cases) and served at once.
Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 14 (falt i det fri)
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About the dish
Veal sweetbreads were a fine and costly ingredient in party food around 1914, and krustader with a sweetbread ragout were among the more elegant small dishes in Erken's cookbook.
How to make it
1
Soak the sweetbreads
Put the sweetbreads in cold water for 1 hour.
2
Blanch and clean
Pour boiling water over the sweetbreads, then place them for 5 minutes in cold water, take them out, and remove all membranes.
3
Cook the sweetbreads
Put the sweetbreads in boiling, salted water — only as much as is needed for the sauce — and cook until tender, about ½ hour. Cool the sweetbreads in the stock.
4
Cut up
Take the sweetbreads out, press them lightly in a clean cloth, and cut them into small squares.
5
Make the sauce
Melt the butter, stir in the flour, and thin with the stock to a thick sauce.
6
Enrich with egg yolks
Thicken the sauce with the well-beaten egg yolks. The sauce must not boil after the egg yolks have been added.
7
Season and combine
Add salt, pepper, lemon juice, and sherry, and mix in the cut-up sweetbreads. Keep the mixture warm in a water bath.
8
Serving
Fill the krustader and serve them at once, set on a platter with a napkin.
Changes from the original
The ingredient list has been reconstructed from the narrow column and set in modern measures (grams, dl, tsp). The method has been divided into numbered steps; "kjøtklæde" (meat cloth) is explained as a clean cloth.
📖1914
Original 1914 recipe
Verbatim from the first edition of the Big Cookbook.
Foto: Faksimile: Nasjonalbiblioteket
ProofreadPage 14
1 par brisler
50 gr. smør
40 gr. hvetemel
¼ l. kraft
1 à 2 eggeblommer
salt
pepper
1 teske citronsaft
sherry.
Brislerne lægges i vand 1 time; blancheres, d. v. s. overheldes med kokende vand, lægges derefter 5 minutter i koldt vand, optages, alle hinder fjernes, og brislerne sættes over varmen i kokende, saltet vand, kun saa meget som vil trænges til sausen, kokes til den er mør, omtrent ½ time; avkjøles i kraften. Tages op og presses let i et rent kjøtklæde. Brisselen skjæres op i smaa firkanter. Smørret smeltes, irøres melet, spædes med kraften til en tyk saus. Sausen jevnes med eggeblommerne, som maa være godt vispet; sausen maa ikke koke, efter at eggeblommerne er hat i; den tilsættes krydderier og den opskaarne brissel. Stuingen holdes varm i vandbad. Krustaderne serveres straks de er fyldt; de sættes paa fat, hvorpaa er lagt en serviet.
📖1949
Revised 1949 recipe
From the revised edition of the Big Cookbook.
Foto: Faksimile: Nasjonalbiblioteket
ProofreadPage 20
1 par brisler
50 gr. smør
40 gr. hvetemel
ca. 1/2 l. kraft
1 å 2 eggeplommer
1 teskje sitronsaft
salt
pepper
sherry.
Brislene legges i vann 1 time; blancheres, d. v. s. overhelles med kokende vann, legges derefter 5 minutter i koldt vann, optas, alle hinner fjernes, og brislene settes over varmen i kokende, saltet vann, kun så meget som vil trenges til sausen, kokes til de er møre, omtrent 1/2 time; avkjøles i kraften. Tas op og presses lett i et rent kjøttklæde. Brisselen skjæres op i små firkanter. Smøret smeltes, irøres melet, spes med kraften til en tykk saus. Sausen jevnes med eggeplommene, som må være godt vispet; sausen må ikke koke efterat eggeplommene er hatt i; den tilsettes krydderier og den opskårne brissel. Stuingen holdes varm i vannbad. Krustadene serveres straks de er fylt; de settes på fat, hvorpå er lagt en serviett.
In stores now
Clean, minimally processed groceries matched to the ingredients — approximate prices.
1914 (korrekturlest, s. 14) → 1949 (korrekturlest, s. 20)~48% av teksten endretfjernetlagt til
1 par brisler 50 gr. smør 40 gr. hvetemel ¼ ca. 1/2 l. kraft 1 à å 2 eggeblommer eggeplommer 1 teskje sitronsaft salt pepper 1 teske citronsaft sherry. Brislerne lægges Brislene legges i vand vann 1 time; blancheres, d. v. s. overheldes overhelles med kokende vand, lægges vann, legges derefter 5 minutter i koldt vand, optages, vann, optas, alle hinder hinner fjernes, og brislerne sættes brislene settes over varmen i kokende, saltet vand, vann, kun saa så meget som vil trænges trenges til sausen, kokes til den de er mør, møre, omtrent ½ 1/2 time; avkjøles i kraften. Tages Tas op og presses let lett i et rent kjøtklæde. kjøttklæde. Brisselen skjæres op i smaa små firkanter. Smørret Smøret smeltes, irøres melet, spædes spes med kraften til en tyk tykk saus. Sausen jevnes med eggeblommerne, eggeplommene, som maa må være godt vispet; sausen maa må ikke koke, efter at eggeblommerne koke efterat eggeplommene er hat hatt i; den tilsættes tilsettes krydderier og den opskaarne opskårne brissel. Stuingen holdes varm i vandbad. Krustaderne vannbad. Krustadene serveres straks de er fyldt; fylt; de sættes paa settes på fat, hvorpaa hvorpå er lagt en serviet. serviett.
Why must the sweetbreads be soaked and blanched first?
The sweetbreads are soaked for 1 hour to draw out blood, and are then blanched by pouring boiling water over them. Next they are placed for 5 minutes in cold water before all membranes are removed. This gives clean, white, firm sweetbreads.
How long should the sweetbreads cook?
They are cooked tender in boiling, salted water for about ½ hour — use only as much water as is needed for the sauce (¼ l stock). The sweetbreads are cooled in the stock, pressed lightly in a clean cloth, and cut into small squares.
How do I make the sauce without it curdling?
Melt 50 g butter, stir in 40 g wheat flour, and thin with ¼ l stock to a thick sauce. Thicken with 1–2 well-beaten egg yolks, and do not let the sauce boil after the egg yolks are added. Season with salt, pepper, 1 teaspoon lemon juice, and sherry.
Where does the recipe come from?
It is from Henriette Schønberg Erken's Stor kokebok (1914), page 14, in the chapter on hot and cold small dishes.
