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Veal sweetbread in puff pastry (vol-au-vent de ris de veau)

Erken 1914: a puff-pastry vol-au-vent filled with Italian salad, topped with slices of cooked veal sweetbread layered with horseradish butter and salted tongue, and finely cut scalded tomatoes.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 220 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

From the meat chapter of Henriette Schønberg Erken's "Stor kokebok" (1914), in the series of finer sweetbread dishes. The vol-au-vent was one of the era's most prestigious preparations for parties and the cold table.

How to make it

  1. 1

    The puff-pastry ring

    Roll out the puff pastry and form a ring (vol-au-vent form). It should not be too tall. Bake until nicely light golden, and cool.

  2. 2

    Soak the sweetbread

    Place the sweetbread in cold water for at least 2 hours, changing the water a few times until it is white.

  3. 3

    Blanch and cook

    Blanch the sweetbread, clean off membranes, and cook it tender in stock. Press it lightly under a weight until cold.

  4. 4

    Slice and layer

    Cut the sweetbread into thin slices. Spread a little horseradish butter on each slice and cover with a slice of tongue of the same size.

  5. 5

    Arranging

    Fill the puff-pastry ring with Italian salad. Place the sweetbread and tongue slices on top, and finally scatter the scalded, finely cut tomatoes over. Serve immediately.

Changes from the original

Amounts are estimated (the original gives none), units modernized. "Soaked/blanched" explained as soaking in cold water and blanching. Italian salad is assumed ready-made, and horseradish butter is referred to as a separate base recipe.

Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

From19141949Modernised
To19141949Modernised
1914 (proofread, p. 220) → 1949 (proofread, p. 250)~42% of the text changedremovedadded
Butterdeig kalvebrissel tunge italiensk italiensky salat pepperrotsmør (se side 7) pepperrotsmør. tomater. Av butterdeigen lages en randform; den skal ikke være meget høi og være stekt pen lysegulbrun. Brislerne utvandes, Brislene utvannes, blancheres, kokes, presses let lett og skjæres i tynde tynne skiver. Paa På hver skive lægges legges litt pepperrotsmør og herover igjen en tungeskive. Butterdeigsranden fyldes Butterdeigs randen fylles med den italienske salat, ovenpaa ovenpå denne lægges legges brissel- og tungestykkerne, tungestykke­ne, og over her igjen lægges legges de skoldede, finskaarne skåldede, finskårne tomater.

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Frequently asked questions

How do I prepare the veal sweetbread?
The sweetbreads are first soaked, then blanched, cooked, lightly pressed, and cut into thin slices. Soaking and pressing are necessary for a light color and firm texture.
How is the dish assembled?
The puff pastry is shaped into a ring that should not be too tall, and baked nicely light golden brown. The ring is filled with Italian salad, topped with sweetbread and tongue slices (with horseradish butter between the sweetbread and tongue), and finally scalded, finely cut tomatoes.
How long does the dish take, and how many does it serve?
The recipe is intended for 6 servings and has a total time of about 3.5 hours, including soaking and cooking the sweetbread. It is from Henriette Schønberg Erken's "Stor kokebok" (1914), p. 220.

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