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Sweetbread Ragout in Puff Pastry or as a Filling for Croustades

Sweetbread ragout from Erken 1914: cleaned, blanched, and half-cooked veal sweetbreads are cut into cubes, browned in butter, thinned with sweetbread stock, seasoned with tomato purée and olives, thickened with sago flour stirred into cream, and finished with salt and sherry; served in puff-pastry cases or croustades.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 14 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

A finer ragout for puff-pastry cases or croustades. Tomato purée and olives show the continental influence in Erken's party food, and sago flour is used as a light thickener instead of wheat flour.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Clean and pre-cook the sweetbreads

    Clean and blanch the sweetbreads, and simmer them until half tender. Cut them into small squares.

  2. 2

    Brown the sweetbreads

    Brown the sweetbread cubes in the butter.

  3. 3

    Thin and simmer

    Pour over 1 dl sweetbread stock and add the tomato purée and olives.

  4. 4

    Thicken the ragout

    Stir the sago flour into the cream and thicken the ragout with it.

  5. 5

    Season

    Season with salt and sherry, and add a little coloring if needed.

  6. 6

    Serving

    Serve the ragout in puff-pastry cases or as a filling for croustades.

Changes from the original

The ingredient list has been reconstructed from the narrow column and put into modern measures (grams, dl, tbsp/tsp). The method, which continues on the next printed page, has been gathered and divided into numbered steps. «Kulør» (coloring) is kept as optional.

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Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

1914 (proofread, p. 14) → Modernised~88% of the text changedremovedadded
1 par brisler kalvebrissel. 80 gr. smør ca. ¼ l. g smør. 2,5 dl kraft (brisselkraft, ca.). 1 del. tomatpuré dl tomatpuré. 6 skrællede, opskaarne stk oliven (skrelte og oppskårne). 1 teske ts sagomel (kan erstattes med potetmel). 2 spiseskeer fløte ss fløte. salt sherry. Brislerne kokes halvt møre efter at være renset (etter smak). sherry (etter smak). kulør (om nødvendig). Rens og blancheret. Skjæres blanchér brislene, og kok dem halvt møre. Skjær dem i smaa firkanter. Brisselen brunes små firkanter.. Brun brisselterningene i smørret, overheldes smøret.. Hell over 1 del. brisselkraft, tilsættes det øvrige; jevnes med sagomelet, som utrøres dl brisselkraft og tilsett tomatpuré og oliven.. Rør ut sagomelet i fløten. Salt fløten og vin efter smak; om behøves jevn raguen med dette.. Smak til med salt og sherry, og tilsett litt kulør. kulør om det behøves.. Server raguen i butterdeigsposteier eller som fyll i krustader.

Note on Modernised

Ingredienslisten er rekonstruert fra den smale spalten og satt i moderne mål (gram, dl, ss/ts). Fremgangsmåten, som fortsetter på neste trykte side, er samlet og delt i nummererte trinn. «Kulør» er beholdt som valgfritt.

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Frequently asked questions

What are the «sweetbreads» in this recipe?
Sweetbreads (thymus) from a calf – a fine offal. The recipe uses 1 pair of sweetbreads, which are cleaned, blanched, and simmered until half tender before being cut into small squares.
How is the ragout thickened?
With 1 teaspoon of sago flour stirred into 2 tablespoons of cream and added at the end. The stock is about ¼ liter, of which 1 deciliter of sweetbread stock is poured over the browned sweetbreads. Sherry and salt are added to taste, and a little coloring if needed.
How is the dish served?
As a warm little dish in puff pastry (pastry cases/tarts) or as a filling in croustades. The recipe is from Henriette Schønberg Erken's «Stor kokebok» (1914), p. 14, and serves 4 with about 2 hours total time.
What gives flavor to the ragout besides the stock?
1 deciliter tomato purée, 6 peeled and sliced olives, 80 g butter for browning, cream, salt, and sherry.

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