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Wine Jelly (gelée au vin)

Classic clarified wine jelly from Erken's Stor kokebok (1914): gelatin softened, boiled with water, lemon, sugar, egg whites and crushed eggshells plus white wine and sherry, clarified, strained through a straining cloth and set in a mold – optionally layered with fresh fruit such as grapes.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 492 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

The recipe appears in the dessert chapter right after Erken's general advice on jelly: that jelly should always boil a few minutes past the boiling point, never be whisked or stirred afterward, be strained through a scalded straining cloth or bag without wringing, and be unmolded by dipping the mold once in hot water rather than several times in lukewarm.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Soak the gelatin

    Place the gelatin sheets in cold water for 30 minutes. Cut them up.

  2. 2

    Mix everything

    In an enameled pot, combine the gelatin with 6 dl cold water, the lemon zest (all the white cut away), the lemon juice, the sugar, the unbeaten egg whites, the washed and crushed eggshells and the wine.

  3. 3

    Bring to a boil

    Set the pot over the heat and whisk vigorously until it is at a boil. Let it boil for a few minutes, but do not whisk or stir it any more after this.

  4. 4

    Let it clarify

    Take the pot off the heat, put on a lid and set it in a warm spot near the stove for 10 minutes.

  5. 5

    Strain the jelly

    Pour the jelly into a straining cloth or a straining bag that has first been wrung out in boiling water. As long as the jelly running through is cloudy, pour it back into the straining cloth. Do not wring or stir the cloth.

  6. 6

    Pour into the mold

    Pour the clear jelly into a mold rinsed in cold water, and set it cold until firm.

  7. 7

    With fruit

    If you want fruit in the jelly: first pour a little jelly into the mold, and when it is firm place some grapes on it, then more jelly to set, and so on. Keep the rest of the jelly lukewarm while the mold is being filled.

  8. 8

    Unmold

    Dip the mold once in hot water, dry it off quickly with a clean cloth, place a cold platter over it, turn it over and give it a quick jerk so the jelly releases.

Changes from the original

Measurements are converted to modern units (deciliters, grams); 12 gelatin sheets are given as about 24 g gelatin. "Graves" is interpreted as Graves wine (white wine), with gooseberry wine as an alternative, and sherry with rhubarb wine as an alternative. The language in the method has been modernized, while the ingredients are otherwise unchanged.

Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

From19141949Modernised
To19141949Modernised
1914 (proofread, p. 492) → 1949 (proofread, p. 565)~69% of the text changedremovedadded
12 15 plater gelatin 6 del. koldt vand 1/2 citron vann Yz sitron eller citronsyre sitronsyre 200 gr. sukker 2 eggehviter og eggeskal eggeskall 2 1/2 y 2 del. graves eller stikkelsbærvin 2 1/2 2V2 del. sherry eller rabarbervin. rabarbravin. Gelatinen utbløtes i koldt vand 1/2 vann % time; klippes op og blandes med 6 del. koldt vand, citronskallet, vann, sitronskallet, hvorfra alt det hvite er skaaret skåret bort, citronsaften, sitronsaften, sukkeret, de uvispede eggehviter, de vaskede, knuste eggeskal eggeskall og vinen. Sættes Settes over ilden varmen i emaljert gryte, vispes sterkt, sterkt til det staar står i koken; koker i nogen minutter, men maa må ikke vispes eller røres mere i. Tages av varmen, og gryten sættes med lok paa i nærheten av komfyren i 10 minutter. Geleen heldes derpaa i sileklædet eller i sileposen, som først er vridd op i kokende vand. Saalænge den gele, som rinder igjennem, er uklar, heldes geleen tilbake i sileklædet. Heldes i form, som er skyllet i koldt vand. Forskjellig frisk frugt som druer f. eks. kan nedlægges i geleen. Held da først litt gele i formen; naar denne er stiv, lægges nogen druer, derefter gele, som stivner til, og saa fremdeles videre. Mens formen fyldes, maa det øvrige av geleen holdes lunkent.

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Frequently asked questions

Why are egg whites and crushed eggshells used in the jelly?
They are used for clarifying. When the mixture is whisked up to the boiling point, egg white and eggshell bind impurities, which are then strained off in the straining cloth or bag. That is why you must not whisk or stir after it boils – that would ruin the clarification.
How long does it take to make wine jelly?
Reckon about 5.5 hours in all. The gelatin is soaked in cold water for 1/2 hour, the mixture is boiled a few minutes, stands covered near the stove for 10 minutes before straining, and the rest of the time goes to setting in the cold.
Can I substitute the wine?
Yes, the recipe gives alternatives itself: 2 1/2 dl Graves or gooseberry wine and 2 1/2 dl sherry or rhubarb wine. Lemon can be replaced with citric acid.
How many servings does the recipe make?
About 8 servings, with 12 sheets gelatin, 6 dl cold water, 200 g sugar and 5 dl wine in total. The recipe is from Henriette Schønberg Erken's Stor kokebok (1914), p. 492.

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