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Ham with Truffles (jambon aux truffes)

Erken's festive ham with truffles: the ham is seasoned with salt, sugar, pepper and ginger, poached in white wine and sherry in a tightly sealed pot at 85 °C for 4 hours, cooled in the stock, larded with truffle strips, brushed with egg white, mustard and sugar, breaded with rusk and gratinéed brown in the oven. Served with vegetables and truffle sauce from the juices.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 255 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

A festive ham from the pork chapter of Stor kokebok. Here Erken uses low-temperature poaching in wine – a method she recommends for keeping the ham juicy – and finishes with gratinéeing under a rusk crust. Truffle, Madeira and sherry were among the expensive delicacies in bourgeois Norwegian homes around 1914.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Season the ham

    Mix the salt, sugar, pepper and ginger and rub the mixture well into the ham. Let it rest in a cold place for a day and night.

  2. 2

    Place in the pot

    Place the ham in a suitable pot and pour over the white wine and sherry, so the liquid stands level with the ham.

  3. 3

    Seal the pot

    Knead a firm dough of rye flour and water, lay it as a ring along the rim, put on the lid and seal well.

  4. 4

    Boil up and steep

    Bring quickly to a boil and let it boil 15 minutes at 100 °C (210 °F). Cool the stock to 85 °C (185 °F) and let the ham steep at this temperature for about 4 hours. Turn the ham after 2 hours, and shake the pot often so it does not settle against the bottom.

  5. 5

    Cool in the stock

    Place the ham in a deep dish, pour the stock over it and let it cool in the stock.

  6. 6

    Lard with truffle

    Press a meat cloth against the ham to draw out all the dissolved fat, and lard the ham densely with neatly cut truffle strips.

  7. 7

    Bread

    Beat the egg white, mix in the mustard and 2 tsp sugar and brush the top of the ham. Strew over the sifted, pounded rusk.

  8. 8

    Roast

    Place the ham in a warm roasting pan and set it in a hot oven (about 200 °C (390 °F)) until it gets a nice brown crust, around ½ hour.

  9. 9

    Assembly

    Place the ham on a warm platter, slice it and put the pieces back so the ham looks whole. Serve with assorted vegetables and truffle sauce made from the juices, reduced to a suitable consistency.

Changes from the original

Measurements are converted to modern units (bottle of wine = 7.5 dl, sherry = 3.5 dl). "Løk lægges paa" (onion is put on) in the OCR has been corrected to "laaket lægges paa" (the lid is put on and sealed with a dough ring). Temperature indications are kept (100 °C (210 °F) / 85 °C (185 °F)), and the oven temperature specified as 200 °C (390 °F). The ingredient list is structured and the language of the steps modernized.

Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

From19141949Modernised
To19141949Modernised
1949 (proofread, p. 284) → Modernised~77% of the text changedremovedadded
1 skinke, fersk 5,5 kg skinke (fersk eller lett saltet lettsaltet og røket, 5 å 6 kg. røkt). 50 gr. salt g salt. 1 teskje pepper ½ — ts pepper. 1 ts ingefær (malt). 25 gr. sukker g sukker. 7,5 dl hvitvin (1 flaske). 3,5 dl sherry (½ flaske). 50 gr. g trøfler ¾ eggehvite (skåret i strimler). 1 teskje stk eggehvite. 1 ts tørr sennep sennep. 2 teskjeer ts sukker (til pensling). 50 gr. finstøtt kavring. Skinken gnis inn med en blanding av g kavring (finstøtt og siktet). 200 g rugmel (til deigkrans som tetter lokket). 1 dl vann (til deigkransen). Bland salt, sukker, pepper og ingefær, ligger et døgn. Legges ingefær og gni blandingen godt inn i kjelen; påhelles vinen, som helst bør stå jevnhøit med skinken. Lokk legges på, dette tettes La den ligge kaldt et døgn.. Legg skinken i en passende kjele og hell over hvitvin og sherry, slik at væsken står jevnhøyt med skinken.. Elt en krans av deig, laget fast deig av rugmel og vann. Kokes hurtig op vann, legg den som en krans langs kanten, sett på lokket og koker i tett godt.. Kok raskt opp og la det koke 15 minutter ved 100°; 100 °C. Avkjøl kraften avkjøles derefter til 85°, 85 °C og la skinken trekke ved denne temperatur trekker skinken omkring 4 timer, men vendes når den har trukket temperaturen i cirka 4 timer. Vend skinken etter 2 timer; ryst timer, og rist kjelen ofte, ofte så skinken den ikke legger sig ved bunnen. Skinken legges op seg mot bunnen.. Legg skinken i et dypt fat når den er ferdig; fat, hell kraften helles over, over og skinken la den avkjøles heri. Et kjøttklæde trykkes i kraften.. Trykk et kjøttklede mot flesket for å få bort alt opløst oppløst fett, og spekk skinken spekkes tett med pent skårne trøffelstrimler. Eggekviten vispes, blandes med trøffelstrimler.. Visp eggehviten, bland inn sennep og 2 teskjeer sukker; ts sukker og pensle oversiden av skinken bestrykes med dette. Den støtte, siktede kavring strøes over; skinken. Strø over den siktede, støtte kavringen.. Legg skinken legges i en varm panne, settes langpanne og sett den i het ovn (ca. 200 °C) til den får en pen brun skorpe, omkring ½ time. Den legges time.. Legg skinken på varmt fat, opskjæres, skjær den opp og legg stykkene legges igjen, tilbake så skinken ser hel ut. Serveres Server med forskjellige grønnsaker og trøffelsaus, som tilsettes trøffelsaus laget av skyen, og koker inn innkokt til den er passe jevn.

Note on Modernised

Mål er omregnet til moderne enheter (flaske vin = 7,5 dl, sherry = 3,5 dl). «Løk lægges paa» i OCR er rettet til «laaket lægges paa» (lokket settes på og tettes med deigkrans). Temperaturangivelser er beholdt (100 °C / 85 °C), og ovnstemperatur er presisert til 200 °C. Ingredienslisten er strukturert og språket i trinnene modernisert.

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Frequently asked questions

How large a ham and how much time do I need?
The recipe uses a ham of 5–6 kg, fresh or lightly salted and smoked, for about 12 servings. Allow plenty of time: the ham is rubbed with the spice mixture and rests for a day and night before cooking, then a 15-minute boil at 100° and about 4 hours steeping at 85° – nearly 30 hours in all.
Why is a dough ring placed around the lid?
The ham is cooked in white wine that should stand level with the meat, and the lid is sealed with a ring of dough made from rye flour and water. This makes the pot airtight so that steam and aroma from the wine and truffles do not escape.
What must I watch out for during the steeping?
Keep the temperature at 85° (no hard boiling), turn the ham after 2 hours, and shake the pot often so the ham does not settle onto the bottom.
What do the spice mixture and glaze consist of?
The ham is rubbed with 50 g salt, 25 g sugar, 1 tsp pepper and 1 tsp ginger. For the surface, egg white, 1 tsp dry mustard, 2 tsp sugar and 50 g finely pounded rusk are used; otherwise 1 bottle white wine, ½ bottle sherry and 50 g truffles.

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