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Ptarmigan Pâté

Classic ptarmigan pâté from Erken's Stor kokebok 1914: layers of ptarmigan breast, veal and pork slices with a forcemeat of ground ptarmigan, veal and pork thinned with cream, baked in a water bath 3–4 hours and covered with a strong jus cooked from ptarmigan bones, celeriac and parsley.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 328 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

From the chapter on poultry and game in "Stor kokebok" (1914). Ptarmigan pâté was festive fare and a way to use the whole bird – the breasts in slices, the rest for forcemeat, the bones for a rich jus. Erken also mentions canning in "Weck jars," which were fashionable in Norwegian households at this time.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Cut up the birds

    Cut the ptarmigan breasts free and slice them thin. Cut the veal into thin slices, and cut the pork slices thin. Set the ptarmigan bones aside.

  2. 2

    Line the mold

    Line an oblong mold (or canning jars) with thin pork slices.

  3. 3

    Make the forcemeat

    Run the small pieces of pork, veal and ptarmigan meat through a meat grinder several times (the original says 6 times) into a fine forcemeat. Thin gradually with the cream to a suitable consistency, and season with salt and pepper.

  4. 4

    Layer up

    Layer veal slices, forcemeat, ptarmigan slices, pork slices, veal again and so on until the mold is full. Sprinkle salt and pepper between the layers. The top layer should be pork.

  5. 5

    Cook the jus

    Boil the ptarmigan bones with celeriac and a sprig of parsley in a little water into a strong jus – preferably 3 hours. Strain the jus.

  6. 6

    Bake in a water bath

    Set the mold in a water bath and let the pâté cook 3–4 hours (about 150 °C (300 °F) in the oven with a water bath). If canning in jars: 100 °C (210 °F) for 2 hours.

  7. 7

    Pour over the jus

    When the pâté is cold, pour the strong jus over it so that it sets around and over the pâté. Serve cold, in slices.

Changes from the original

Amounts have been converted to modern measures (grams, dl). "Flesk" (pork) is interpreted as fresh, fatty pork belly/fatback in slices. "Ground 6 times" has been modernized to a meat grinder/food processor. Oven temperature and water bath have been specified.

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Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

From19141949Modernised
To19141949Modernised
Modernised → 1914 (proofread, p. 328)~84% of the text changedremovedadded
3 stk ryper (renset). 500 g ½ kg. kalvebog (uten ben). 250 g fersk sideflesk (i tynne skiver). 2,5 dl fløte. 1 stk sellerirot (lite stykke, til kraften). 1 bunt ¼ kg. flesk ¼ l. fløte selleri persille (til kraften). 2 ts salt (etter smak). 0,5 ts pepper (etter smak). Skjær rypebrystene fri og skjær dem i tynne skiver. Skjær kalvekjøttet pepper. Rypebrystene skjæres i tynne tynde skiver, kalvekjøt og skjær fleskeskivene tynne. Sett rypebeina til side.. Kle en flesk likesaa. En avlang form (eller glass til hermetisering) eller, i tilfælde av hermetisk nedlægning, glasset klædes med tynne fleskeskiver.. Kjør småstykkene fleskeskiver. Smaastykkerne av flesk, kalvekjøtt kalvekjøt og rypekjøtt gjennom kjøttkvern flere ganger (originalen sier ryperne males 6 ganger) til en fin farse. Spe ganger og spædes litt om efter litt med fløten til en passende konsistens, og smak til med farce, tilsættes salt og pepper.. Legg pepper. I den «klædte» form lægges nu lagvis kalvekjøttskiver, farse, kalvekjøtskiver, farce, rypeskiver, fleskeskiver, kalv igjen og så videre saa videre, til formen er full. Strø salt og pepper mellom lagene. Øverste fuld. Det øverste lag skal være flesk.. Kok rypebeina med sellerirot flesk. Salt og pepper strøes mellem lagene. Rypebenene, selleri og persillekvast i utkokes med litt vann vand til en sterk sky – sky, kan gjerne koke i 3 timer. Sil skyen.. Sett formen i vannbad og la posteien koke 3–4 timer (ca. 150 °C Denne sky heldes over posteien, naar denne er kold. Posteien koker i ovn med vannbad). Ved hermetisering på glass: vandbad 3—4 timer, eller paa «Weckglas» ved 100 °C grader i 2 timer.. Når posteien er kald, helles den sterke skyen over, slik at den stivner rundt og over posteien. Serveres kald i skiver. timer.

Note on Modernised

Mengder er omregnet til moderne mål (gram, dl). «Flesk» er tolket som fersk, fet sideflesk/spekk i skiver. «Males 6 ganger» er modernisert til kjøttkvern/foodprosessor. Bakeovnstemperatur og vannbad er presisert.

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Frequently asked questions

Which cuts of meat are used in the ptarmigan pâté?
3 ptarmigan (the breasts sliced thin), ½ kg veal shoulder and ¼ kg pork. The rest of the meat is ground into a forcemeat with ¼ l cream.
How is the pâté layered in the mold?
The mold (or jar, if canned) is lined with pork slices. Then layers of veal slices, forcemeat, ptarmigan slices, pork slices, veal again and so on are added until the mold is full. The top layer should be pork, and salt and pepper are sprinkled between the layers.
What are the ptarmigan bones used for?
The ptarmigan bones are cooked out with celeriac, a sprig of parsley and a little water into a strong jus – it can boil for 3 hours – and the jus is poured over the pâté.
How many times should the forcemeat be ground?
The small pieces of pork, veal and ptarmigan are ground 6 times and thinned little by little with the cream into a suitable forcemeat, with salt and pepper.

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