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Woodcock (Snipe Family) with Woodcock Toast

Classic woodcock recipe: the birds are cleaned carefully with the head left on, trussed with the beak run through the thighs, wrapped in pork fat and roasted in butter about ½–¾ hour while basted with pan juices and cream. The giblets (except crop, gall and gizzard) are chopped with scraped pork, onion, parsley, red wine, egg yolks and spices, steamed in a water bath and spread on crescent-shaped bread slices that are baked 5 minutes – "woodcock toast" (rugdebrød). Served with cress and a butter-thickened jus.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 323 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

In Erken's cookbook the woodcock is regarded as one of the finest game birds, and she follows the classic French tradition in which the giblets (except gizzard, crop and gall) are used for "woodcock toast" – toasted bread slices with a giblet ragout served around the bird.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Clean the birds

    Clean the woodcock a few hours before they are to be eaten. Do not cut off the head. Pluck the birds very carefully, skin the head and neck, remove the esophagus and windpipe, take out the eyes and cut off the claws. Wipe the birds dry, but do not wash them.

  2. 2

    Remove the giblets

    Take out the giblets and keep everything except the crop, gall and gizzard (stomach). Set the giblets aside for the woodcock toasts.

  3. 3

    Truss the birds

    Press the thighs back and run the beak through one thigh, through the bird and out through the other thigh.

  4. 4

    Bard and roast

    Brush the breast with warm butter, lay on the pork slices and tie in place with kitchen twine. Fry the birds in butter in the usual way for about 30–45 minutes, basting often with pan juices and cream.

  5. 5

    Make the woodcock toast filling

    Chop the giblets finely and mix them with the scraped pork. Let the onion and parsley steep in the warm, but not fully melted, butter. Stir in the chopped giblets, the red wine, the egg yolks, and salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste.

  6. 6

    Steam the filling

    Set the bowl in a water bath and let the mixture steam, stirring, for 5 minutes.

  7. 7

    Bake the woodcock toasts

    Cut the bread into slices, stamp them out into crescent shapes, spread on the giblet mixture and bake 5 minutes in a hot oven (about 225 °C (435 °F)). Serve at once.

  8. 8

    Sauce and plating

    Bring the jus to a boil and thicken it with cold butter; serve it separately. Split the woodcock in two along the breastbone, place them on a warm platter and surround them with small bunches of cress and with the woodcock toasts.

Changes from the original

The measurements have been converted to modern units (dl, g, tsp, tbsp). "Flesk" (pork) is interpreted as fatty pork/fatback. Roasting heat and oven temperature have been specified. The water bath has been kept. Woodcock can be replaced with snipe or another small woodland bird.

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Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

1914 (proofread, p. 323) → 1949 (proofread, p. 356)~69% of the text changedremovedadded
(Bécasse rotie.) 6 rugder 150 gr. smør flesk salt 2 del. fløte. Rugdebrød: Al indmat av rugden undtagen maven 1 knivsod løk 3 teskeer finhakket persille 3 teskeer finskrapet flesk 25 gr. smør 1 spiseske rødvin 2 eggeblommer salt pepper muskat franskbrød. Rugderne Rugdene bør først rengjøres nogen timer før de skal spises. Hodet skjæres ikke av. Rugderne Rugdene plukkes meget forsigtig, forsiktig, hode og hals flaaes, flåes, spise- og luftrør fjernes, øinene uttages, uttas, klørne avhugges. Fuglene tørres, tørkes, men vaskes ikke. Indmaten uttages, Innmaten uttas, men kun kro, galde galle og kraas krås kasseres. Fuglene opsættes, opsettes, idet man trykker laarene lårene tilbake, og nebbet stikkes gjennem det ene laar, lår, gjennem fuglen og ut gjennem det andet laar. annet lår. Brystet pensles over med varmt smør, belægges belegges med fleskeskiver, som bindes fast med traad. tråd. Fuglene stekes i smør paa på vanlig maate, måte, dryppes ofte med sky og fløte. Rugderne steker ca. ½—¾ time. Rugderne kløves i to langsefter brystbenet, anrettes paa varmt fat og omgives med smaa buketter av karse og rugdebrød. Skyen faar et opkok, jevnes med koldt smør og serveres særskilt. Til rugdebrødene hakkes indmaten fin, blandes med det skrapede flesk. Løken og persillen trækker i det varmede, men ikke helt smeltede smør, heri røres den hakkede indmat, rødvinen, eggeblommerne, salt, pepper og muskat efter smak. Alt sættes i vandbad og damper under omrøren i 5 minutter. Brødet skjæres i skiver, utstikkes i halvmaaneform og besmøres med rugdeindmaten. Steker i 5 minutter i varm ovn og maa serveres straks. smøret.

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Frequently asked questions

What is "woodcock toast" (rugdebrød)?
It is a forcemeat made from the woodcock's giblets – everything except the stomach – mixed with a little onion, 3 teaspoons finely chopped parsley, 3 teaspoons finely scraped pork, 25 g butter, 1 tablespoon red wine, 2 egg yolks, and salt, pepper and nutmeg. The mixture is spread on white bread and served with the birds.
Why is the woodcock not washed?
The birds are plucked very carefully, the head and neck are skinned, and the birds are only wiped dry – not washed – so that flavor and juiciness are preserved. The giblets are removed, but only the crop, gall and gizzard are discarded; the rest is used in the woodcock toast.
How is the woodcock trussed before roasting?
The head is not cut off. The thighs are pressed back, and the beak is run through one thigh, through the bird and out through the other. The breast is brushed with warm butter, and the birds are roasted with butter, pork, salt and 2 dl cream.
Where does the recipe come from?
From Henriette Schønberg Erken's "Stor kokebok" (1914), page 323. It is meant for 6 woodcock, that is 6 servings, with about 2 hours of total time.

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