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Woodcock (Snipe Family) with Woodcock Toast

Classic woodcock recipe: the birds are cleaned carefully with the head left on, trussed with the beak run through the thighs, wrapped in pork fat and roasted in butter about ½–¾ hour while basted with pan juices and cream. The giblets (except crop, gall and gizzard) are chopped with scraped pork, onion, parsley, red wine, egg yolks and spices, steamed in a water bath and spread on crescent-shaped bread slices that are baked 5 minutes – "woodcock toast" (rugdebrød). Served with cress and a butter-thickened jus.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 323 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

In Erken's cookbook the woodcock is regarded as one of the finest game birds, and she follows the classic French tradition in which the giblets (except gizzard, crop and gall) are used for "woodcock toast" – toasted bread slices with a giblet ragout served around the bird.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Clean the birds

    Clean the woodcock a few hours before they are to be eaten. Do not cut off the head. Pluck the birds very carefully, skin the head and neck, remove the esophagus and windpipe, take out the eyes and cut off the claws. Wipe the birds dry, but do not wash them.

  2. 2

    Remove the giblets

    Take out the giblets and keep everything except the crop, gall and gizzard (stomach). Set the giblets aside for the woodcock toasts.

  3. 3

    Truss the birds

    Press the thighs back and run the beak through one thigh, through the bird and out through the other thigh.

  4. 4

    Bard and roast

    Brush the breast with warm butter, lay on the pork slices and tie in place with kitchen twine. Fry the birds in butter in the usual way for about 30–45 minutes, basting often with pan juices and cream.

  5. 5

    Make the woodcock toast filling

    Chop the giblets finely and mix them with the scraped pork. Let the onion and parsley steep in the warm, but not fully melted, butter. Stir in the chopped giblets, the red wine, the egg yolks, and salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste.

  6. 6

    Steam the filling

    Set the bowl in a water bath and let the mixture steam, stirring, for 5 minutes.

  7. 7

    Bake the woodcock toasts

    Cut the bread into slices, stamp them out into crescent shapes, spread on the giblet mixture and bake 5 minutes in a hot oven (about 225 °C (435 °F)). Serve at once.

  8. 8

    Sauce and plating

    Bring the jus to a boil and thicken it with cold butter; serve it separately. Split the woodcock in two along the breastbone, place them on a warm platter and surround them with small bunches of cress and with the woodcock toasts.

Changes from the original

The measurements have been converted to modern units (dl, g, tsp, tbsp). "Flesk" (pork) is interpreted as fatty pork/fatback. Roasting heat and oven temperature have been specified. The water bath has been kept. Woodcock can be replaced with snipe or another small woodland bird.

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Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

Modernised → 1949 (proofread, p. 356)~87% of the text changedremovedadded
(Bécasse rotie.) 6 stk rugder (med hodet på, forsiktig plukket). 150 g smør (til steking og pensling). 150 g fett svineflesk (spekk) (i tynne skiver til innbaking). salt. 2 dl fløte (til dryppning). 25 g gr. smør (til rugdebrødene). all innmat av rugdene (unntatt magen, kroen, kråsen og gallen). 1 knivsodd løk (finhakket). 3 ts persille (finhakket). 3 ts svineflesk (finskrapet). 1 ss rødvin. flesk salt 2 stk eggeplommer. pepper. muskat. 6 skiver loff (franskbrød) (utstukket i halvmåneform). 1 bunt karse (til garnityr). 25 g kaldt smør (til å jevne skyen). Rens rugdene noen del. fløte. Rugdene bør først rengjøres nogen timer før de skal spises. Hodet skjæres ikke av. Plukk fuglene Rugdene plukkes meget forsiktig, flå hode og hals, fjern hals flåes, spise- og luftrør, ta ut øynene og hugg av klørne. Tørk fuglene, luftrør fjernes, øinene uttas, klørne avhugges. Fuglene tørkes, men vask dem ikke.. Ta ut innmaten og behold alt unntatt vaskes ikke. Innmaten uttas, men kun kro, galle og kråse (magen). Innmaten settes til side til rugdebrødene.. Press krås kasseres. Fuglene opsettes, idet man trykker lårene tilbake tilbake, og stikk nebbet gjennom stikkes gjennem det ene låret, gjennom lår, gjennem fuglen og ut gjennom gjennem det andre låret.. Pensle brystet annet lår. Brystet pensles over med varmt smør, legg på fleskeskiver og bind belegges med fleskeskiver, som bindes fast med hyssing. Stek fuglene tråd. Fuglene stekes i smør på vanlig måte i ca. 30–45 minutter, og drypp måte, dryppes ofte med sky og fløte.. Hakk innmaten fint og bland den med det skrapede flesket. La løk og persille trekke i det varme, men ikke helt smeltede smøret. Rør inn den hakkede innmaten, rødvinen, eggeplommene, salt, pepper og muskat etter smak.. Sett bollen i vannbad og la blandingen dampe under omrøring i 5 minutter.. Skjær brødet i skiver, stikk dem ut i halvmåneform, smør på innmatblandingen og stek 5 minutter i varm ovn (ca. 225 °C). Serveres straks.. Gi skyen et oppkok og jevn den med kaldt smør; server den for seg. Kløv rugdene i to langs brystbenet, legg dem på varmt fat og omgi dem med små buketter av karse og med rugdebrødene.

Note on Modernised

Målene er omregnet til moderne enheter (dl, g, ts, ss). «Flesk» er tolket som fett svineflesk/spekk. Stekevarme og ovnstemperatur er presisert. Vannbad er beholdt. Rugde kan erstattes av bekkasin eller annen liten skogsfugl.

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Frequently asked questions

What is "woodcock toast" (rugdebrød)?
It is a forcemeat made from the woodcock's giblets – everything except the stomach – mixed with a little onion, 3 teaspoons finely chopped parsley, 3 teaspoons finely scraped pork, 25 g butter, 1 tablespoon red wine, 2 egg yolks, and salt, pepper and nutmeg. The mixture is spread on white bread and served with the birds.
Why is the woodcock not washed?
The birds are plucked very carefully, the head and neck are skinned, and the birds are only wiped dry – not washed – so that flavor and juiciness are preserved. The giblets are removed, but only the crop, gall and gizzard are discarded; the rest is used in the woodcock toast.
How is the woodcock trussed before roasting?
The head is not cut off. The thighs are pressed back, and the beak is run through one thigh, through the bird and out through the other. The breast is brushed with warm butter, and the birds are roasted with butter, pork, salt and 2 dl cream.
Where does the recipe come from?
From Henriette Schønberg Erken's "Stor kokebok" (1914), page 323. It is meant for 6 woodcock, that is 6 servings, with about 2 hours of total time.

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