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Pumpernickels

Pumpernickels (Erken 1914): despite the name, not rye bread but crisp almond sticks made of 4 eggs, 250 g sugar, 10 g baker's ammonia, 60 g ground almonds and 500 g wheat flour; rolled thin, cut into 3 cm wide strips, brushed with egg, baked golden and cut on the diagonal while warm — a forerunner of biscotti.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 568 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

Erken's "Pumpernickels" are not rye bread but dry almond sticks cut on the diagonal while warm – a forerunner of today's almond sticks and biscotti. Baker's ammonia (hartshorn salt) was the usual leavening agent in such cookies.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Beat the egg mixture

    Beat eggs and sugar together for about 15 minutes until a pale, thick mixture.

  2. 2

    Mix the dough

    Stir in the blanched, ground almonds, the baker's ammonia dissolved in 1 tbsp milk, and finally the sifted wheat flour.

  3. 3

    Form strips

    Roll the dough out as thick as the back of a somewhat thick knife (about ½ cm) and cut it into 3 cm wide strips.

  4. 4

    Bake

    Place the strips on a parchment-lined sheet, brush with beaten egg and bake them light golden at a good heat, about 180–190 °C (375 °F) for 10–12 minutes.

  5. 5

    Cut up

    Cut the strips into smaller pieces on the diagonal with a very sharp knife while they are still warm.

Changes from the original

Baker's ammonia can be replaced with 1 tsp baking powder. Measurements standardized, the almond quantity given in grams, and baking temperature estimated. Brushing requires an extra egg.

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Tidsmaskin – hva endret seg?

Velg to utgaver og se hva Henriette Schønberg Erken la til, fjernet eller endret mellom dem.

1914 (korrekturlest, s. 568)1949 (korrekturlest, s. 661)~83% av teksten endretfjernetlagt til
4 egg 250 gr. sukker 10 gr. hjortetaksalt hjortetakksalt 60 gr. søte mandler ½ kg. hvetemel. Eggene røres ¼ time med sukkeret, tilsættes de skoldede, malte mandler, hjortetaksaltet, opløst i 1 spiseske melk, og det sigtede hvetemel. Deigen kjevles saa tyk som baken av en litt tyk kniv, skjæres i længder av 3 cm. bredde, pensles over med egg og stekes lyse gulbrune ved god varme. Skjæres, mens de endnu er varme, med en meget skarp kniv i mindre stykker paa skråa.

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Frequently asked questions

What is baker's ammonia, and can I use something else?
Baker's ammonia (hartshorn salt) is an old leavening agent (ammonium carbonate) still sold in grocery stores. This recipe uses 10 g, dissolved in 1 tablespoon of milk. It gives crisp cookies; baking powder gives a different result and is not what the recipe calls for.
How thick should the dough be rolled, and how are the cookies cut?
The dough is rolled as thick as the back of a somewhat thick knife, and cut into strips 3 cm wide. The strips are brushed with egg and baked light golden. While still warm, they are cut on the diagonal into smaller pieces with a very sharp knife.
Why must they be cut while warm?
The cookies turn crisp and hard as they cool, and will then crumble or break. If you cut them warm with a sharp knife, you get neat diagonally cut pieces.
How are the almonds handled?
The 60 g sweet almonds are blanched (skins removed) and ground before being stirred into the egg-and-sugar mixture, which has first been beaten for a quarter of an hour.

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