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Paupiettes of Sole Fillets (paupiettes de soles à la Richelieu)

Erken's 1914 party recipe for paupiettes of sole fillets à la Richelieu: sole fillets filled with fish forcemeat of haddock, white bread, cream, and lobster meat, rolled in buttered paper, poached in the oven with white wine and lemon, set upright on fried bread croutons with forcemeat and mushroom, and served with a thickened lobster sauce, parsley, and a truffle star. Serves 8.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 89 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

An elaborate party dish from the fish chapter of Stor kokebok (1914). Paupiettes are thin fillets filled with forcemeat and rolled up – here sole fillets with a fish forcemeat of haddock and lobster, served on fried bread croutons with lobster sauce. The recipe shows the French-inspired festive food Erken taught to the housewives of the bourgeoisie.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Fillet the fish and make stock

    Fillet the sole, salt the fillets, and smooth them with a moistened knife. Put the skin and bones in a pot with 7.5 dl water and the fish stock, reduce by half, and strain the stock.

  2. 2

    Make the fish forcemeat

    Clean the haddock, scrape the meat from skin and bones, and grind it fine in a mortar or food processor. Soak the grated bread in the cream and stir it into the fish paste along with the finely cut lobster meat. Blend everything well together.

  3. 3

    Season and sieve

    Stir in 45 g butter, 3 egg yolks, pepper, salt, and parsley. Push the forcemeat through a fine sieve to make it completely smooth.

  4. 4

    Roll the paupiettes

    Place a layer of forcemeat on one side of each sole fillet and roll it up from the tail – if the fillets are split, roll from the narrowest end. Wrap each roll in buttered parchment paper.

  5. 5

    Poach in the oven

    Set the rolls close together in a buttered, slightly deep ovenproof dish. Drizzle the lemon juice over them and place the dish in the oven at about 175 °C (345 °F). After 5 minutes, pour the wine over them; baste often and let them cook for another 10 minutes.

  6. 6

    Prepare the croutons

    Fry the bread slices in butter. Put a finger-thick layer of forcemeat on each slice and bake them for 5 minutes in the oven.

  7. 7

    Assemble

    Take out the fillets, remove the paper, and set each paupiette upright on a crouton. Put a mushroom on top and keep warm.

  8. 8

    Make the sauce

    Stir 30 g butter with the flour, thin with the liquid from the fillets and the reduced fish stock. Let the sauce simmer for 5 minutes, take it off the heat, and thicken with egg yolk and lobster butter. Season with salt and pepper – the sauce must not boil after this.

  9. 9

    Serve

    Pour the sauce around the paupiettes, sprinkle with finely chopped parsley, and place a truffle slice cut into a star shape in the middle of each. Serve at once.

Changes from the original

Grams and deciliters have been kept, but measures like "dessert spoonful" and "teaspoon" have been converted to tablespoons/teaspoons in the modern sense. Kitchen paper (greaseproof paper) has been replaced by parchment paper, and oven temperatures are estimated (about 175 °C (345 °F)). The method is divided into numbered steps; the forcemeat can be blended in a food processor instead of being pounded in a mortar and pushed through a hair sieve.

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Frequently asked questions

What fish do I need for this dish?
You need 2 sole, which are filleted into paupiettes, and 1 haddock, used for the forcemeat – the meat is scraped from the skin and bones and pounded or ground. The skin and bones from the sole are cooked into stock.
How do I make the fish stock?
The skin and bones are put over the heat with ¾ liter water plus the fish stock, reduced by half, and strained. The stock is used further in the dish.
What is the forcemeat made of?
Ground haddock meat, 90 g grated white bread soaked in 2 tablespoons cream, 60 g finely cut lobster meat, 45 g butter, 3 egg yolks, pepper, salt, and chopped parsley. Everything is pounded and mixed well, and the forcemeat is pushed through a sieve.
What is the dish served with?
The recipe calls for 8 croutons of white bread, 8 mushrooms, and 1 truffle for garnish, plus lobster butter and white wine in the sauce. The recipe is from Henriette Schønberg Erken's Stor kokebok (1914), p. 89, and serves 8.

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