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Beef Tenderloin with Macaroni (filet de boeuf à l'italienne)

Beef tenderloin (2 kg beef loin) larded with pork fat, browned in butter and roasted in a hot oven with boiling meat stock, served sliced with macaroni mixed with 125 g butter and 125 g grated sharp cheese, garnished with lettuce leaves and cress. From Erken's Stor kokebok 1914, page 168.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 168 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

One of several French-inspired beef tenderloin dishes in the meat chapter of Stor kokebok (1914). The tenderloin is larded with pork fat, roasted in a hot oven, and served with macaroni in cheese and butter — a typical "à l'italienne" arrangement from the bourgeois party table of the time.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Prepare the tenderloin

    Cut out the tenderloin, remove membranes and sinews. Cut the pork fat into strips and lard the tenderloin crosswise, inserting the strips at angles toward each other.

  2. 2

    Brown the meat

    Heat the frying pan well, brown 60 g butter in it, and brown the tenderloin larded-side down first. Turn and brown it all around, and sprinkle over a little salt.

  3. 3

    Roast in the oven

    Place the tenderloin in a well-heated oven (about 225 °C (435 °F)) and pour on boiling meat stock little by little. Roast 30–45 minutes, basting often with the drippings, but never pierce the meat during roasting.

  4. 4

    Boil the macaroni

    Boil the macaroni in 2 liters of boiling, salted water (1 tbsp salt) for 20 minutes. Rinse with cold water.

  5. 5

    Cut and mix

    Lay the macaroni alongside each other on the board and cut them all at once into pieces about 3 cm long. Return them to the pot and quickly stir in the butter and the grated cheese.

  6. 6

    Plating

    Slice the tenderloin, reassemble the slices as a whole tenderloin on an oblong, warm platter, and place the macaroni along both long sides. Garnish the platter with lettuce leaves and cress.

Changes from the original

Quantities have been converted to modern units (liter/deciliter, gram). "Pork fat" is specified as fresh, unsalted pork belly for larding. The meat stock is set to 5 dl (the original's "¼—1 l." is interpreted as a range). "1 spoon salt" is interpreted as 1 tablespoon. Roasting time and temperature have been made specific.

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Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

From19141949Modernised
To19141949Modernised
1914 (proofread, p. 168) → Modernised~80% of the text changedremovedadded
2 kg. kg oksekam (filet) (hinner og sener fjernes). 50 gr. g flesk (skjæres i strimler til spekking). 60 gr. g smør (til bruning). 1 ts salt ¼—1 l. kjøtkraft (til kjøttet). 5 dl kjøttkraft (kokende, til dryppebuljong). 200 gr. makaroni g makaroni. 2 l vann (til koking av makaronien). 1 ss salt (i kokevannet). 125 gr. reven g revet skarp ost ost. 125 gr. smør. Fileten utskjæres, hinder g smør (til makaronien). salatblad og sener fjernes, karse (til pynt). Skjær ut fileten, fjern hinner og sener. Skjær flesket i strimler og spekk fileten spækkes tversover med fleskestrimler. Strimlerne skal på tvers, slik at strimlene stikkes paa skråa inn på skrå mot hverandre. — Naar stekepanden er het, brunes de hverandre.. Varm stekepannen godt, brun 60 gr. g smør i den, den og brun fileten brunes heri, idet med den spækkede side lægges spekkede siden ned først. Vendes Snu og brunes brun den helt rundt, drysses med litt salt, og strø over litt salt.. Sett fileten sættes ind inn i en rigtig godt varm stekeovn (ca. 225 °C) og paaheldes litt efter litt den hell på kokende kraft; stekes fra ½—¾ time. Fileten dryppes ofte, kjøttkraft litt etter litt. Stek 30–45 minutter, drypp ofte med skyen, men maa ikke stikkes stikk aldri i kjøttet under stekningen. Makaronien sættes over ilden stekingen.. Kok makaronien i 2 liter kokende, saltet vand. Til 200 gr. makaroni bør man ta 2 l. vand og 1 ske salt, kokes vann (1 ss salt) i 20 minutter og skylles minutter. Skyll over med koldt vand. Lægges kaldt vann.. Legg makaronien langs hinanden paa fjælen hverandre på fjølen og skjæres igjennem skjær alle paa en over på én gang i ca. 3 cm. lange. Haves cm lange stykker. Ha dem tilbake i gryten, gryten og smørret rør smøret og den revne ost røres hurtig i. Fileten skjæres osten raskt inn.. Skjær fileten i skiver, lægges legg dem sammen som en hel paa filet på et avlangt, varmt fat, og legg makaronien lægges paa langs begge langsider. Fatet pyntes Pynt fatet med salatblade salatblad og karse.

Note on Modernised

Mengder er omregnet til moderne enheter (liter/desiliter, gram). «Flesk» er angitt som fersk, usaltet sideflesk til spekking. Kjøttkraften er satt til 5 dl (originalens «¼—1 l.» er tolket som en ramme). «1 ske salt» er tolket som 1 spiseskje. Steketid og temperatur er presisert.

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Frequently asked questions

Which cut is used, and how is it prepared?
The recipe uses 2 kg of beef loin from which the tenderloin is cut out. Membranes and sinews are removed, and the tenderloin is larded crosswise with pork strips (50 g pork fat), inserted at angles toward each other.
How long should the tenderloin be roasted?
The tenderloin is first browned in 60 g butter in a hot frying pan – larded side down first – and browned all around. Then it is roasted in a properly hot oven for ½–¾ hour, while boiling meat stock (¼–1 l) is poured on little by little.
What must one watch out for during roasting?
The tenderloin should be basted often with the stock, but it must not be pierced during roasting, so that the meat juices do not run out.
How much water is needed for the macaroni?
The macaroni (200 g) is placed in boiling, salted water, and you should allow about 2 liters of water for 200 g of macaroni. It is served with 125 g grated sharp cheese and 125 g butter.

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