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Salmon à la génoise (saumon à la génoise)

Erken's 'Salmon à la génoise' from Stor kokebok (1914): a whole salmon (2.5 kg) poached in a strained stock of butter-sweated root vegetables, white wine, vinegar, water, and spices, served with sauce à la génoise – a butter roux thinned with fish stock, bouillon, and red wine, with chopped ham, thickened with egg yolk and seasoned with lemon, anchovy butter, paprika, and salt.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 104 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

The recipe appears in the fish chapter among Erken's salmon dishes, where she first explains the principles of cooking fish. The dish is a classic French-inspired festive dish: the salmon is poached in a spiced wine-and-vinegar brine (court-bouillon) and served with a red wine sauce with ham.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Sweat the roots in butter

    Melt 100 g butter in a roomy pot. Clean the onion, carrot, leek, and celeriac, slice them, and stir them into the butter. Let them sweat gently for 10 minutes without taking on color.

  2. 2

    Cook the stock

    Add the white wine, vinegar, water, peppercorns, clove, bay leaf, parsley, and thyme. Let the stock cook for 1 hour, covered, then strain it.

  3. 3

    Poach the salmon

    Place the cleaned and washed salmon in the fish kettle and pour the boiling, strained stock over it so that it covers the fish. Let the salmon poach gently until tender, without letting the water boil hard.

  4. 4

    Make the sauce

    Melt 60 g butter, stir in the chopped ham, and sprinkle in the flour. Let it simmer 5 minutes, then thin with 5 dl of the fish stock, the bouillon, and the red wine. Let the sauce simmer 15 minutes, then strain it.

  5. 5

    Finish the sauce

    Bring the sauce to a boil, take it off the heat, and thicken it with the egg yolk. Season with lemon juice, anchovy butter, paprika, and salt.

  6. 6

    Plating

    Place the salmon on an oblong platter, pour a little of the sauce over it, and garnish with lemon slices, parsley, and tomato slices. Serve the rest of the sauce separately.

Changes from the original

Measurements have been converted to modern units (deciliters, grams), '1 bottle of white wine' is set at 7.5 dl, and the fractions in the OCR have been interpreted (2 1/2 kg salmon, 2 1/2 dl vinegar, 1/2 l fish stock for the sauce). The method has been divided into numbered steps and the language of the steps modernized, while the transcription keeps the 1914 spelling.

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Tidsmaskin – hva endret seg?

Velg to utgaver og se hva Henriette Schønberg Erken la til, fjernet eller endret mellom dem.

1914 (korrekturlest, s. 104)1949 (korrekturlest, s. 129)~36% av teksten endretfjernetlagt til
2 1/2 kg. laks 1 løk 1 gulerot 1 purre 1 liten selleri 100 gr. smør 1 flaske hvit vin 2 1/2 hvitvin 2½ del. eddik 10 pepperkorn 1 nellik 1 ½ laurbærblad 1 bundt ½ bunt persille 1 gren timian 3 l. vand. Smørret vann. Smøret smeltes, irøres de rensede, i skiver skaarne skårne røtter, smaatrækker småtrekker i 10 minutter, tilsættes tilsettes vin, eddik, vand vann og krydderierne; krydderiene; koker 1 time under lok. lokk. Siles og heldes helles kokende over den rensede, vaskede fisk, som er lagt i fiskekjelen; kraften maa staa må stå over fisken. Fisken anrettes paa et avlangt fat og overheldes overhelles litt av nedenstaaende nedenstående saus. Resten av sausen serveres særskilt til fisken. Sauce à la génoise. 60 gr. smør 60 gr. hvetemel 1/2 ½ l. av fiskemarinaden 1 del. buljong 2 del. rødvin 1 spiseskefuld spiseskjefull hakket, mager skinke 1 eggeblomme eggeplomme ½ teskje sitronsaft 1 teske citronsaft ansjossmør paprika salt. Smørret Smøret smeltes, og heri røres skinken; melet drysses i, smaakoker småkoker i 5 minutter, spædes spes med kraften og vinen, smaakoker 1/4 småkoker ¾ time, siles. Sausen gives gis igjen et opkok, jevnes med eggeblommen eggeplommen og tilsættes citron, tilsettes sitron, ansjossmør samt paprika og salt efter smak. Vær forsiktig med paprika!

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Frequently asked questions

What is 'à la génoise' in this recipe?
The salmon is cooked in a spiced marinade (court-bouillon) of white wine, vinegar, water, butter, root vegetables, and spices, and served with sauce à la génoise – a butter-and-flour thickening thinned with fish marinade, bouillon, and red wine.
How is the poaching stock made, and how long does it take?
Melt 100 g butter, let the cleaned, sliced root vegetables (onion, carrot, leek, celeriac) sweat for 10 minutes, add 1 bottle of white wine, 2 1/2 dl vinegar, 3 l water, and the spices (peppercorns, clove, bay, parsley, thyme). Cook 1 hour, covered, strain, and pour the stock boiling over the fish in the fish kettle – the stock must cover the fish.
How much salmon is needed, and how is it served?
2 1/2 kg of salmon for 8 servings. The fish is arranged on an oblong platter, drizzled with a little of the sauce, and the rest of the sauce is served separately. The recipe is from Henriette Schønberg Erken's 'Stor kokebok' (1914), p. 104.

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