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Saddle of Veal (selle de veau)

Erken's saddle of veal from 1914: 2 kg saddle rubbed with salt and pepper, marinated 6 hours in 4 dl red or white wine with browned onion and carrot, browned, barded with fresh pork fat and braised under a lid in the oven about 1 hour with about 7.5 dl meat stock. The fillets are cut into slices and laid back on the bone, garnished with mushroom in cream or vegetables, served with small potatoes in parsley butter.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 200 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

Saddle of veal was a distinguished festive dish in Erken's day, often served with a French name on the menu. The dish belongs to the chapter on roast veal, where the saddle with the fillets was roasted whole and reassembled at plating — a classic touch in bourgeois festive fare around 1900.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Season the meat

    Dry the saddle of veal and rub it well with salt and pepper.

  2. 2

    Brown onion and root vegetables

    Cut the onions and carrots into fairly thick slices and brown them in butter or fat.

  3. 3

    Place the meat in the wine marinade

    Place half of the onion and carrots in a dish just large enough for the piece of meat. Lay the meat on top and the rest of the onion and carrot over it. Pour the wine over.

  4. 4

    Let the meat steep

    Let the meat sit in the marinade for about 6 hours. Turn it every other hour.

  5. 5

    Brown the roast

    Take out the meat and dry it well with a kitchen towel. Brown it well on all sides, take it out and tie the slices of pork fat around it.

  6. 6

    Set over the heat

    Place the onion and carrots in the pot, the meat on top, and pour over the wine the meat has been marinating in.

  7. 7

    Roast in the oven

    Reduce the wine well, add about 7.5 dl meat stock and bring to a boil. Put on the lid and set the pot into the oven at about 175 °C (345 °F). Small roasts need about 1 hour.

  8. 8

    Carve

    Take out the fillets, cut them into slices and lay the slices back in their original place on the backbone.

  9. 9

    Garnish and plate

    If you like, place a little chopped mushroom mixed with a couple of spoonfuls of cream between the slices, or vegetables such as cauliflower, carrots and peas. Arrange small potatoes steamed in parsley butter around the roast.

Changes from the original

Measurements have been converted to modern units (deciliters, grams, liters). «Fresh pork fat» is interpreted as fresh, unsmoked pork belly/bacon for barding. The amount of meat stock in the OCR was unclear and has been set at 7.5 dl (¾ l). The method has been divided into numbered steps, and the oven temperature is specified (not in the original).

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From19141949Modernised
To19141949Modernised
1949 (proofread, p. 230) → 1914 (proofread, p. 200)~41% of the text changedremovedadded
2 kg. kalverygg kalveryg 2 løk 2 gulerøtter 60 gr. ferskt flesk pepper salt 4 dl. del. rød- eller hvitvin 100 gr. smør eller fett. Kjøttet inngnis indgnides med pepper og salt. Løken og gulerøttene gulerøtterne skjæres i litt tykke skiver og brunes i smør eller fett. Halvparten av dette legges lægges i et fat, fat — nettop netop stort nok til å at rumme kjøttstykket kjøtstykket —, og resten av løken og røttene legges røtterne lægges over kjøttet, vinen helles på. heldes paa. Kjøttet bør ligge og trekke trække heri ca. 6 timer; vendes hver annen anden time. Kjøttet legges lægges op og tørres med kjøttklædet. kjøtklædet. Nu brunes kjøttet godt på paa alle sider; tas tages op og ombindes fleskeskiver. Løken og gulerøttene legges gulerøtterne lægges i gryten, kjøttet herpå, herpaa, og vinen vinen, som kjøttet lå laa i, helles heldes over. Når Naar denne er godt innkokt, tilsettes indkokt, tilsættes ¾ l. kjøttkraft, kjøtkraft, kokes op, lokk legges på, lok lægges paa, og gryten settes inn sættes ind i ovnen. Små Smaa steker ca. 1 time. Filetene tas Fileterne tages ut og skjæres i skiver; legges lægges tilbake på paa deres opprinnelige plass. oprindelige plads. Mellem skivene skiverne kan legges lægges litt hakkede champignons, blandet med et par skjeer skeer fløte eller grønnsaker, grønsaker, som blomkål, blomkaal, gulerøtter og erter. Små Smaa poteter, dampet i litt persillesmør, legges lægges omkring.

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Frequently asked questions

Why should the saddle of veal sit in wine for 6 hours?
The marinating in 4 dl red or white wine together with browned onion and carrot makes the meat tender and adds flavor. Turn the piece of meat every other hour so it steeps evenly. This is the main reason the recipe's total time is about 8 hours.
What do I do with the marinade afterward?
The meat is taken out and dried with a kitchen towel before being browned well on all sides. Onion and carrots are placed in the pot, the meat over them, and the wine the meat was in is poured over and reduced well.
Why are slices of pork fat tied around the meat?
The 60 g fresh slices of pork fat are tied around after browning to add fat, so the lean veal does not turn dry during roasting.
How large a dish should I use for the marinating?
Erken recommends a dish just large enough to hold the piece of meat, so the 4 dl wine covers as much of the meat as possible.

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