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Saddle of Veal à la Villeroy (selle de veau à la Villeroy)

Erken's festive 1914 dish: a whole saddle of veal larded and roasted, carved and laid back on the bone with white onion sauce and optional tongue/ham between the slices, covered with a thick layer of cheese batter with truffle and gratinéed in a hot oven. Served with pan juices.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 203 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

One of the grand French-inspired festive dishes in Erken's veal chapter. The saddle of veal is first roasted/steamed as in the recipe «Saddle of veal with macaroni», carved, laid back on the bone and covered with a thick cheese batter with truffles before being gratinéed. The ingredient list ran in a narrow column beside the text.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Prepare the meat

    Wash and dry the saddle of veal, lard it with strips of fatback and season with salt and pepper. Roast/steam it as in the recipe for saddle of veal with macaroni, together with the carrot and meat stock. Save the pan juices.

  2. 2

    The sauce

    Boil the finely chopped onion for 3 minutes in boiling water, then drain. Let the onion continue cooking in 1 tbsp butter for 10 minutes without browning. Add the white sauce, salt and sugar, and let it steep gently over low heat for 15 minutes. Press the sauce through a fine sieve, stir in the cream and the 60 g butter.

  3. 3

    Reassemble the meat

    Carve the meat off the bone in slices. Put a little sauce on the bone, lay the slices back in place, ideally with thin slices of cooked tongue or ham and a little sauce between the slices.

  4. 4

    The batter

    Put the flour in a pot, stir in the milk a little at a time, add salt, pepper and nutmeg. Set over the heat and bring to a boil while stirring constantly. Remove from the heat immediately and stir in the grated cheese, butter and egg yolks. Finally fold in the stiffly beaten egg whites and the chopped truffle.

  5. 5

    Gratinéeing

    Cover the entire surface of the meat with an approximately 2 cm thick layer of the batter. Set a piece of greased parchment paper high around the meat, not over it. Place the saddle of veal on the serving dish into a hot oven, about 225 °C (435 °F), for 15 minutes.

  6. 6

    Serving

    Remove the paper and plate the saddle of veal at once. Serve the pan juices from the meat and the white sauce separately.

Changes from the original

Measurements have been converted to modern units (deciliters, grams, tbsp/tsp), pork fat given as fatback for larding, «white sauce» kept as a term. The oven temperature is specified (the original just says «hot oven»). The steps have been broken up and the language modernized.

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Tidsmaskin – hva endret seg?

Velg to utgaver og se hva Henriette Schønberg Erken la til, fjernet eller endret mellom dem.

Fra19141949Modernisert
Til19141949Modernisert
1914 (korrekturlest, s. 203) → 1949 (korrekturlest, s. 234)~46% av teksten endretfjernetlagt til
(Selle de veau å la Villeroy.) 2 kg. kalveryg kalverygg 60 gr. gulerøtter flesk salt pepper 1/4 ½ l. kjøtkraft 2 1/2 kjøttkraft 2½ del. hvit saus 250 gr. finhakket løk 2 spiseskeer spiseskjeer fløte 1 teske ½ teskje sukker 60 gr. smør. Til røren: 240 gr. hvetemel 6 del. melk salt pepper muskat 250 gr. reven ost 45 gr. smør 5 egg 2 spiseskeer finhakkede trøfler. Kalveryggen tilberedes som forklaret forklart under kalveryg kalverygg med makaroni (se side 201). makaroni. Før kjøtskiverne lægges paa kjøttskivene legges på benet igjen, lægges legges litt saus paa på benet. Til sausen hakkes løken fin, koker i kokende vand vann i 3 minutter; vandet heldes vannet helles fra, og løken koker i en ske skje smør i 10 minutter; maa må ikke brunes; nu tilsættes tilsettes den hvite saus, salt og sukker, smaatrækker småtrekker over ganske svak varme i 1/4 ¾ time, presses gjennem haarsigt hårsikt og irøres de 60 gr. smør. Kjøtskiverne lægges Kjøttskivene legges tilbake paa på deres plads, plass, mellem skiverne skivene kan lægges tynde legges tynne skiver kokt tunge eller skinke samt ganske litt av sausen. Hele overflaten dækkes dekkes derefter med et ca. 2 cm. tykt lag av følgende røre: 240 gr. hvetemel 6 del. melk salt pepper muskat 250 gr. reven ost 45 gr. smør 5 egg. Melet haves has i en gryte, irøres melken litt efter litt, tilsættes tilsettes krydderier, sættes settes over ilden varmen og bringes til kokepunktet under stadig omrøren. Tages Tas straks av varmen; den revne ost, smørret smøret og eggeblommerne haves egeplommene has i, tilsidst tilsist skjæres de stivvispede hviter ind inn og 2 spiseskeer spiseskjeer finhakkede trøfler. Et smurt kjøkkenpapir — litt høit — lægges legges omkring fileten, ikke over. Kalveryggen, som er lagt paa på det fat den skal serveres paa, sættes på, settes i varm ovn i 1/4 ¾ time. Papiret fjernes, og kalveryggen anrettes straks. — Skyen fra kjøttet serveres særskilt til.

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Frequently asked questions

How long does the dish take, and how many does it serve?
The recipe serves 8 and has a total time of about 210 minutes (3.5 hours). It is from Henriette Schønberg Erken's «Stor kokebok» (1914), page 203.
Which cut of meat is used?
2 kg saddle of veal. It is prepared as described under «saddle of veal with macaroni» (page 201 in the same book): the meat is cut into slices that are laid back on the bone, with a little sauce in between.
How is the onion sauce made?
250 g finely chopped onion is boiled for 3 minutes in boiling water, drained, and the onion continues cooking in a spoonful of butter for 10 minutes without browning. Then 2 1/2 dl white sauce, salt and sugar are added, and everything steeps over low heat for a quarter of an hour before being pressed through a fine sieve.
What is the «batter» made of?
A thick cheese batter of 240 g wheat flour, 6 dl milk, 45 g butter, 5 eggs, 250 g grated cheese, 2 tablespoons finely chopped truffle, plus salt, pepper and nutmeg.

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