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Saddle of Veal with Macaroni (selle de veau à la milanaise)

Densely larded saddle of veal browned and roasted in bouillon on a bed of pork fat, onion and carrot, glazed with pan juices; the fillets are carved out, the saddle is filled with macaroni stirred with cream and truffle strips, the meat slices are laid over and covered with a reduced cream-milk sauce with Swiss cheese and Parmesan mounted with cold butter.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 201 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

A «milanaise» variation where the saddle of veal is filled with macaroni and covered with a rich cheese sauce of the sauce Mornay type. The recipe begins on page 201 and continues with the sauce on page 202.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Lard and season

    Lard the saddle of veal very densely with strips of pork fat, and rub it with mixed salt and pepper.

  2. 2

    Brown

    Brown the saddle of veal in the butter.

  3. 3

    Roast

    Immediately after browning, place the roast in a pan lined with pork fat, chopped onion and chopped carrots. Pour the bouillon over it. Cover with a lid that does not touch the meat, or with greased paper. Roast about 1 hour and baste often.

  4. 4

    Glaze

    Glaze the saddle of veal with pan juices when it is done roasting.

  5. 5

    Carve and fill

    Carefully loosen the fillets from the bone and cut the meat into slightly diagonal slices. Fill the saddle with boiled macaroni cut into small pieces and stirred together with a little cream and truffle strips. Lay the fillet slices up on the macaroni.

  6. 6

    Cheese sauce

    Melt the butter, add the onion with the clove stuck in it, the carrot and the flour. Let it sizzle for a couple of minutes and thin a little at a time with the boiling cream-milk. Let the sauce simmer over low heat and reduce by half. Strain.

  7. 7

    Finish the sauce

    Add the grated cheese to the sauce, set it over the heat, let it boil a couple of minutes while whisking vigorously, take it off the heat and stir in the 60 g cold butter a little at a time.

  8. 8

    Serve

    Cover the meat slices with the sauce. Serve the pan juices from the saddle of veal separately.

Changes from the original

The ingredients for the roast and the sauce have been split into two lists, as they were mixed together in the column typesetting across the two pages. Measurements modernized (del. = dl, gr. = g). The amounts of macaroni, cream and truffles for the filling are not given in the original. «Cream-milk» kept as a term, but specified as half cream and half milk in the ingredient list.

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Tidsmaskin – hva endret seg?

Velg to utgaver og se hva Henriette Schønberg Erken la til, fjernet eller endret mellom dem.

Fra19141949Modernisert
Til19141949Modernisert
1914 (korrekturlest, s. 201) → 1949 (korrekturlest, s. 232)~63% av teksten endretfjernetlagt til
Kalverygg med makaroni. (Selle de veau å la milanaise.) 2 kg. kalveryg kalverygg flesk 50 gr. løk 60 gr. gulerøtter 100 gr. smør salt pepper 3/4 1. buljong. Til sausen: 60 gr. smør 60 gr. hvetemel 1 1. kokende fløtemelk 1 løk 1 nellik 1 gulerot 60 gr. reven schweizerost 60 gr. reven parmesanost 60 gr. koldt smør 1 1/4 del. l. buljong. Kalveryggen spækkes spekkes meget tæt, tett, gnides ind inn med det blandede pepper og salt og brunes i smørret. smøret. Kalveryggen lægges legges straks efter bruningen i en pande, panne, belagt med flesk, den hakkede løk og de hakkede gulerøtter, paaheldes påhelles buljongen. Dækkes Dekkes med lok, lokk, som ikke skal berøre kjøttet, eller med et smurt papir. Stekes omkring 1 time, dryppes ofte. Kalveryggen glasseres glaseres med sky, naar sky når den er færdigstekt. Fileterne ferdigstekt. Filetene løsnes forsigtig forsiktig fra benet, og kjøttet skjæres i litt skraa skrå skiver. Ryggen fyldes fylles med kokt makaroni, skaaret skåret i smaa små stykker og derefter rørt sammen med litt fløte og trøfler, skaaret skåret i tynde tynne strimler. Filetskiverne Filetskivene anrettes op paa på makaronien og dækkes dekkes med følgende saus: Smørret smeltes, tilsættes løken, hvori nelliken er stukket, guleroten og melet, surrer sammen et par minutter og spædes litt efter litt med den kokende fløtemelk, smaakoker over svak varme og kokes ind til det halve. Siles. Den revne ost haves i, sættes over ilden, koker et par minutter, vispes sterkt, tages av ilden og irøres litt efter litt de 60 gr. smør. Skyen fra kalveryggen serveres særskilt. saus.

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Frequently asked questions

How long does the roast take?
The saddle of veal is browned in butter and then roasted about 1 hour in the pan with bouillon, onion and carrot, basted often. Allow around 2.5 hours in all, including preparation and sauce.
Which cheese is used in the sauce?
The sauce is made from 60 g butter, 60 g wheat flour and 1 liter of boiling cream-milk, and seasoned with 60 g grated Swiss cheese and 60 g grated Parmesan, plus 60 g cold butter and a little bouillon. Onion with clove and carrot are cooked in for flavor.
What is meant by larding the saddle of veal?
To lard means to draw thin strips of pork fat into the meat. In this recipe the saddle is larded «very densely» before being rubbed with salt and pepper and browned – this gives a juicier roast.
Where does the recipe come from?
It is from Henriette Schønberg Erken's «Stor kokebok» (1914), page 201, and also goes by the name selle de veau à la milanaise. It serves 8.

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