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Saddle of Veal à la Rossini

Erken's festive saddle of veal à la Rossini: 2 kg saddle larded with truffle, covered with pork fat, browned in butter and roasted like saddle of veal with macaroni. The fillets are carved out, laid back on the bone and glazed 6–8 times with their own juices. Served with macaroni braised in butter, cheese, truffle and foie gras, plus stuffed tomato cups and salad.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 202 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

One of several festive variations on roast saddle of veal in Erken's meat chapter. The recipe builds on the base recipe «Saddle of veal with macaroni» (page 201) and is named after the composer Rossini, with the classic Rossini markers of truffle and foie gras.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Lard the meat

    Pierce holes in the saddle of veal with a pointed knife and lard it with about 50 g of truffle cut into strips.

  2. 2

    Season and cover

    Rub the meat with salt and pepper and cover it with thin slices of pork fat.

  3. 3

    Brown and roast

    Brown the meat in 50 g butter together with the onion and carrot, and continue roasting it as for saddle of veal with macaroni: in a moderately hot oven, basting constantly with meat stock and pan juices.

  4. 4

    Carve out the fillets

    Carve the fillets out of the saddle, cut them into slices and lay the slices back on the backbone.

  5. 5

    Glaze the meat

    Pour a little of the meat's own juices over it and return it to the oven so the sauce dries in. Repeat 6–8 times until the meat is shiny and glazed.

  6. 6

    Braised macaroni

    Boil the macaroni, cut it into 1 cm pieces and mix with 40 g butter, the grated cheese, the rest of the truffles in strips and the foie gras in fairly large dice.

  7. 7

    Plating

    Arrange small mounds of the braised macaroni around the saddle, alternating with stuffed tomato cups surrounded by small salad leaves. Serve the pan juices separately.

Changes from the original

Quantities have been converted to modern units (grams, liters, deciliters). «Pork fat» is specified as fresh sliced pork belly/bacon for covering. Foie gras can be replaced with another liver pâté/mousse. The cheese type is specified as a firm, grated cheese. Roasting time and oven temperature have been added as modern guidance based on the size of the cut.

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Tidsmaskin – hva endret seg?

Velg to utgaver og se hva Henriette Schønberg Erken la til, fjernet eller endret mellom dem.

1914 (korrekturlest, s. 202)1949 (korrekturlest, s. 232)~37% av teksten endretfjernetlagt til
Kalverygg å la Rossini. (Selle de veau å la Rossini.) 2 kg. kalveryg kalverygg 50 gr. løk 60 gr. gulerøtter flesk salt pepper 3/4 l. kjøtkraft 1/4 kjøttkraft 1 1/2 kg. makaroni 80 gr. smør 40 gr. reven ost 40 gr. gaaselever gåselever 100 gr. trøfler. Kalveryggen spækkes spekkes med 50 gr. trøffelstrimler, idet man stikker huller med en spids spiss kniv. Kjøtstykket gnides ind Kjøttstykket gnis inn med pepper og salt, dækkes dekkes med fleskeskiver, brunes i 50 gr. smør og tilberedes ellers som ovenfor forklaret. Fileterne forklart. Filetene skjæres ut, skjæres i skiver, lægges ind paa rygbenet legges inn på ryggbenet igjen, og kjøttet glasseres, glaseres, idet man overhelder overheller det litt av sin egen saus, sættes ind settes inn i ovnen, forat sausen kan tørre; dette gjentages gjentas en 6—8 ganger. Makaronien kokes, skjæres op i 1 cm.s længde, lengde, blandes med 40 gr. smør, den revne ost, 50 gr. trøffelstrimler og gaaseleveren, skaaret gåseleveren, skåret i litt store terninger. Smaabunker Småbunker av denne stuing lægges legges om kalveryggen vekselvis med fyldte fylte tomatkopper, som er omgivet omgitt av smaa små salatblade.

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Frequently asked questions

What makes this dish special?
The saddle of veal is larded with strips of truffle (50 g), browned in butter under slices of pork fat, and the fillet is carved out, sliced and laid back on the backbone. The meat is then glazed with its own sauce in the oven 6–8 times until the sauce dries in.
What is it served with?
Macaroni (1/4 kg) is boiled, cut into 1 cm lengths and mixed with 40 g butter, 40 g grated cheese and 50 g truffle. Foie gras (80 g) also belongs to the dish.
How long does the dish take, and how many does it serve?
Allow about 3.5 hours in all, and the recipe serves 8. It is from Henriette Schønberg Erken's «Stor kokebok» (1914), p. 202.
How much meat and stock are needed?
2 kg saddle of veal and 3/4 liter of meat stock, along with 50 g onion and 60 g carrots, pork fat, salt and pepper.

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