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Saddle of Veal (selle de veau)

Erken's saddle of veal from 1914: 2 kg saddle rubbed with salt and pepper, marinated 6 hours in 4 dl red or white wine with browned onion and carrot, browned, barded with fresh pork fat and braised under a lid in the oven about 1 hour with about 7.5 dl meat stock. The fillets are cut into slices and laid back on the bone, garnished with mushroom in cream or vegetables, served with small potatoes in parsley butter.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 200 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

Saddle of veal was a distinguished festive dish in Erken's day, often served with a French name on the menu. The dish belongs to the chapter on roast veal, where the saddle with the fillets was roasted whole and reassembled at plating — a classic touch in bourgeois festive fare around 1900.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Season the meat

    Dry the saddle of veal and rub it well with salt and pepper.

  2. 2

    Brown onion and root vegetables

    Cut the onions and carrots into fairly thick slices and brown them in butter or fat.

  3. 3

    Place the meat in the wine marinade

    Place half of the onion and carrots in a dish just large enough for the piece of meat. Lay the meat on top and the rest of the onion and carrot over it. Pour the wine over.

  4. 4

    Let the meat steep

    Let the meat sit in the marinade for about 6 hours. Turn it every other hour.

  5. 5

    Brown the roast

    Take out the meat and dry it well with a kitchen towel. Brown it well on all sides, take it out and tie the slices of pork fat around it.

  6. 6

    Set over the heat

    Place the onion and carrots in the pot, the meat on top, and pour over the wine the meat has been marinating in.

  7. 7

    Roast in the oven

    Reduce the wine well, add about 7.5 dl meat stock and bring to a boil. Put on the lid and set the pot into the oven at about 175 °C (345 °F). Small roasts need about 1 hour.

  8. 8

    Carve

    Take out the fillets, cut them into slices and lay the slices back in their original place on the backbone.

  9. 9

    Garnish and plate

    If you like, place a little chopped mushroom mixed with a couple of spoonfuls of cream between the slices, or vegetables such as cauliflower, carrots and peas. Arrange small potatoes steamed in parsley butter around the roast.

Changes from the original

Measurements have been converted to modern units (deciliters, grams, liters). «Fresh pork fat» is interpreted as fresh, unsmoked pork belly/bacon for barding. The amount of meat stock in the OCR was unclear and has been set at 7.5 dl (¾ l). The method has been divided into numbered steps, and the oven temperature is specified (not in the original).

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Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

From19141949Modernised
To19141949Modernised
1914 (proofread, p. 200) → Modernised~81% of the text changedremovedadded
2 kg. kalveryg kg kalverygg (gjerne med filetene på benet). 2 løk stk løk. 2 gulerøtter stk gulrøtter. 60 gr. ferskt flesk g fersk sideflesk (i tynne skiver til bardering). pepper (etter smak). salt (etter smak). 4 del. rød- dl rødvin eller hvitvin hvitvin. 100 gr. g smør eller fett. Kjøttet indgnides fett (til bruning). 7,5 dl kjøttkraft (buljong). sjampinjong (finhakket, til pynt mellom skivene). 2 ss fløte (til sjampinjongene). grønnsaker (blomkål, gulrøtter og erter, som alternativ pynt). småpoteter (dampet i persillesmør, til servering). Tørk kalveryggen og gni den godt inn med pepper salt og salt. Løken pepper.. Skjær løk og gulerøtterne skjæres gulrøtter i litt tykke skiver og brunes brun dem i smør eller fett. Halvparten fett.. Legg halvparten av dette lægges løken og gulrøttene i et fat — netop som er akkurat stort nok til at rumme kjøtstykket —, kjøttstykket. Legg kjøttet oppå og resten av løken løk og røtterne lægges rot over. Hell over kjøttet, vinen heldes paa. Kjøttet bør vinen.. La kjøttet ligge og trække heri i marinaden i ca. 6 timer; vendes hver anden time. Kjøttet lægges op timer. Snu det annenhver time.. Ta opp kjøttet og tørres tørk det godt med kjøtklædet. Nu brunes kjøttet et kjøkkenhåndkle. Brun det godt paa på alle sider; tages op sider, ta det opp og ombindes fleskeskiver. Løken bind fleskeskivene rundt.. Legg løk og gulerøtterne lægges gulrøtter i gryten, kjøttet herpaa, oppå, og vinen, som hell over vinen kjøttet laa i, heldes over. Naar denne er har ligget i.. Kok vinen godt indkokt, tilsættes ¾ l. kjøtkraft, kokes op, lok lægges paa, inn, tilsett ca. 7,5 dl kjøttkraft og kok opp. Legg på lokk og sett gryten sættes ind inn i ovnen. Smaa steker ovnen på ca. 175 °C. Små steker trenger omtrent 1 time. Fileterne tages time.. Ta ut og skjæres filetene, skjær dem i skiver; lægges skiver og legg skivene tilbake paa deres oprindelige plads. Mellem skiverne kan lægges på sin opprinnelige plass på ryggbenet.. Legg gjerne litt hakkede champignons, hakket sjampinjong blandet med et par skeer skjeer fløte mellom skivene, eller grønsaker, grønnsaker som blomkaal, gulerøtter blomkål, gulrøtter og erter. Smaa poteter, Legg småpoteter dampet i litt persillesmør, lægges omkring. persillesmør rundt steken.

Note on Modernised

Mål er omregnet til moderne enheter (desiliter, gram, liter). «Ferskt flesk» er tolket som fersk sideflesk/bacon uten røyk til bardering. Mengden kjøttkraft i OCR-en var uklar og er satt til 7,5 dl (¾ l). Fremgangsmåten er delt i nummererte trinn, og ovnstemperatur er angitt (ikke i originalen).

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Frequently asked questions

Why should the saddle of veal sit in wine for 6 hours?
The marinating in 4 dl red or white wine together with browned onion and carrot makes the meat tender and adds flavor. Turn the piece of meat every other hour so it steeps evenly. This is the main reason the recipe's total time is about 8 hours.
What do I do with the marinade afterward?
The meat is taken out and dried with a kitchen towel before being browned well on all sides. Onion and carrots are placed in the pot, the meat over them, and the wine the meat was in is poured over and reduced well.
Why are slices of pork fat tied around the meat?
The 60 g fresh slices of pork fat are tied around after browning to add fat, so the lean veal does not turn dry during roasting.
How large a dish should I use for the marinating?
Erken recommends a dish just large enough to hold the piece of meat, so the 4 dl wine covers as much of the meat as possible.

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