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Saddle of Veal with Macaroni (selle de veau à la milanaise)

Densely larded saddle of veal browned and roasted in bouillon on a bed of pork fat, onion and carrot, glazed with pan juices; the fillets are carved out, the saddle is filled with macaroni stirred with cream and truffle strips, the meat slices are laid over and covered with a reduced cream-milk sauce with Swiss cheese and Parmesan mounted with cold butter.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 201 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

A «milanaise» variation where the saddle of veal is filled with macaroni and covered with a rich cheese sauce of the sauce Mornay type. The recipe begins on page 201 and continues with the sauce on page 202.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Lard and season

    Lard the saddle of veal very densely with strips of pork fat, and rub it with mixed salt and pepper.

  2. 2

    Brown

    Brown the saddle of veal in the butter.

  3. 3

    Roast

    Immediately after browning, place the roast in a pan lined with pork fat, chopped onion and chopped carrots. Pour the bouillon over it. Cover with a lid that does not touch the meat, or with greased paper. Roast about 1 hour and baste often.

  4. 4

    Glaze

    Glaze the saddle of veal with pan juices when it is done roasting.

  5. 5

    Carve and fill

    Carefully loosen the fillets from the bone and cut the meat into slightly diagonal slices. Fill the saddle with boiled macaroni cut into small pieces and stirred together with a little cream and truffle strips. Lay the fillet slices up on the macaroni.

  6. 6

    Cheese sauce

    Melt the butter, add the onion with the clove stuck in it, the carrot and the flour. Let it sizzle for a couple of minutes and thin a little at a time with the boiling cream-milk. Let the sauce simmer over low heat and reduce by half. Strain.

  7. 7

    Finish the sauce

    Add the grated cheese to the sauce, set it over the heat, let it boil a couple of minutes while whisking vigorously, take it off the heat and stir in the 60 g cold butter a little at a time.

  8. 8

    Serve

    Cover the meat slices with the sauce. Serve the pan juices from the saddle of veal separately.

Changes from the original

The ingredients for the roast and the sauce have been split into two lists, as they were mixed together in the column typesetting across the two pages. Measurements modernized (del. = dl, gr. = g). The amounts of macaroni, cream and truffles for the filling are not given in the original. «Cream-milk» kept as a term, but specified as half cream and half milk in the ingredient list.

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Time machine – what changed?

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From19141949Modernised
To19141949Modernised
Modernised → 1914 (proofread, p. 201)~77% of the text changedremovedadded
2 kg kalverygg. 150 g sideflesk (til spekking og til å legge i pannen). kg. kalveryg flesk 50 g gr. løk (hakket). 60 g gulrøtter (hakket). gr. gulerøtter 100 g gr. smør (til bruning). 1 ts salt. 0,5 ts pepper. 7,5 dl buljong (til steking). makaroni (kokt, skåret i små stykker, til fyllet). fløte (litt, til makaronifyllet). trøfler (skåret i tynne strimler, til fyllet). salt pepper 3/4 1. buljong. Til sausen: 60 g gr. smør (til sausen). 60 g gr. hvetemel (til sausen). 1 l 1. kokende fløtemelk (kokende; halvt fløte, halvt melk). 1 stk løk (til sausen). 1 stk nellik (stikkes i løken). 1 stk gulrot (til sausen). gulerot 60 g revet sveitserost. gr. reven schweizerost 60 g revet parmesan. gr. reven parmesanost 60 g kaldt gr. koldt smør (røres inn i sausen til slutt). 1,25 dl buljong (til sausen). Spekk kalveryggen 1 1/4 del. buljong. Kalveryggen spækkes meget tett tæt, gnides ind med flesketrimler, det blandede pepper og gni den inn med blandet salt og pepper.. Brun kalveryggen brunes i smøret.. Legg steken smørret. Kalveryggen lægges straks etter efter bruningen i en panne dekket pande, belagt med flesk, hakket den hakkede løk og de hakkede gulrøtter. Hell over gulerøtter, paaheldes buljongen. Dekk Dækkes med lokk lok, som ikke berører skal berøre kjøttet, eller med et smurt papir. Stek Stekes omkring 1 time og drypp ofte.. Glasser kalveryggen time, dryppes ofte. Kalveryggen glasseres med sky når sky, naar den er ferdigstekt.. Løsne filetene forsiktig færdigstekt. Fileterne løsnes forsigtig fra beinet benet, og skjær kjøttet skjæres i litt skrå skraa skiver. Fyll ryggen Ryggen fyldes med kokt makaroni skåret makaroni, skaaret i små smaa stykker og derefter rørt sammen med litt fløte og trøffelstrimler. Legg filetskivene opp på makaronien.. Smelt smøret, tilsett løken trøfler, skaaret i tynde strimler. Filetskiverne anrettes op paa makaronien og dækkes med følgende saus: Smørret smeltes, tilsættes løken, hvori nelliken stukket i, gulroten er stukket, guleroten og melet. La det surre melet, surrer sammen et par minutter og spe spædes litt etter efter litt med den kokende fløtemelken. La sausen småkoke fløtemelk, smaakoker over svak varme og koke inn kokes ind til det halve. Sil.. Ha den Siles. Den revne osten i sausen, sett den ost haves i, sættes over varmen, la den koke ilden, koker et par minutter under kraftig visping, ta den minutter, vispes sterkt, tages av varmen ilden og rør inn irøres litt efter litt de 60 g kaldt smør litt etter litt.. Dekk kjøttskivene med sausen. Server skyen gr. smør. Skyen fra kalveryggen for seg. serveres særskilt.

Note on Modernised

Ingrediensene til stek og saus er skilt i to lister, da de sto blandet sammen i spaltesatsen på de to sidene. Mål modernisert (del. = dl, gr. = g). Mengde makaroni, fløte og trøfler til fyllet er ikke oppgitt i originalen. «Fløtemelk» beholdt som begrep, men angitt som halvparten fløte og halvparten melk i ingredienslisten.

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Frequently asked questions

How long does the roast take?
The saddle of veal is browned in butter and then roasted about 1 hour in the pan with bouillon, onion and carrot, basted often. Allow around 2.5 hours in all, including preparation and sauce.
Which cheese is used in the sauce?
The sauce is made from 60 g butter, 60 g wheat flour and 1 liter of boiling cream-milk, and seasoned with 60 g grated Swiss cheese and 60 g grated Parmesan, plus 60 g cold butter and a little bouillon. Onion with clove and carrot are cooked in for flavor.
What is meant by larding the saddle of veal?
To lard means to draw thin strips of pork fat into the meat. In this recipe the saddle is larded «very densely» before being rubbed with salt and pepper and browned – this gives a juicier roast.
Where does the recipe come from?
It is from Henriette Schønberg Erken's «Stor kokebok» (1914), page 201, and also goes by the name selle de veau à la milanaise. It serves 8.

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