How long does the dish take, and how many does it serve?

The recipe serves 8 and has a total time of about 210 minutes (3.5 hours). It is from Henriette Schønberg Erken's «Stor kokebok» (1914), page 203.

Which cut of meat is used?

2 kg saddle of veal. It is prepared as described under «saddle of veal with macaroni» (page 201 in the same book): the meat is cut into slices that are laid back on the bone, with a little sauce in between.

How is the onion sauce made?

250 g finely chopped onion is boiled for 3 minutes in boiling water, drained, and the onion continues cooking in a spoonful of butter for 10 minutes without browning. Then 2 1/2 dl white sauce, salt and sugar are added, and everything steeps over low heat for a quarter of an hour before being pressed through a fine sieve.

What is the «batter» made of?

A thick cheese batter of 240 g wheat flour, 6 dl milk, 45 g butter, 5 eggs, 250 g grated cheese, 2 tablespoons finely chopped truffle, plus salt, pepper and nutmeg.

Saddle of Veal à la Villeroy (selle de veau à la Villeroy)

Name: Saddle of Veal à la Villeroy (selle de veau à la Villeroy)
Prep time: 1 h 30 min
Cook time: 2 h
Total time: 3 h 30 min
Yield: 8 servings
Cuisine: Norwegian
Ingredients: 2 kg saddle of veal (whole, saddle cut); 60 g carrot (cleaned, sliced); 100 g fatback (for larding); 2 tsp salt; 0.5 tsp pepper; 2.5 dl meat stock; 2.5 dl white sauce (ready-made base sauce); 250 g onion (finely chopped); 2 tbsp cream; 1 tsp sugar; 60 g butter (for the sauce); 1 tbsp butter (for cooking the onion); 150 g cooked tongue or ham (in thin slices, optional); 240 g wheat flour (for the batter); 6 dl milk (for the batter); 0.5 tsp salt (for the batter); 0.25 tsp pepper (for the batter); 0.25 tsp nutmeg (for the batter); 250 g grated cheese; 45 g butter (for the batter); 5 pcs eggs (separated into yolks and whites); 2 tbsp truffle (finely chopped)

Erken's festive 1914 dish: a whole saddle of veal larded and roasted, carved and laid back on the bone with white onion sauce and optional tongue/ham between the slices, covered with a thick layer of cheese batter with truffle and gratinéed in a hot oven. Served with pan juices.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 203 (falt i det fri)

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Ingredients

8 servings

2 kg saddle of veal (whole, saddle cut) · 4 lb 7 oz
60 g carrot (cleaned, sliced) · 2⅛ oz
100 g fatback (for larding) · 3½ oz
2 tsp salt
0.5 tsp pepper
2.5 dl meat stock · 1 cups
2.5 dl white sauce (ready-made base sauce) · 1 cups
250 g onion (finely chopped) · 8⅞ oz
2 tbsp cream
1 tsp sugar
60 g butter (for the sauce) · 2⅛ oz
1 tbsp butter (for cooking the onion)
150 g cooked tongue or ham (in thin slices, optional) · 5¼ oz
240 g wheat flour (for the batter) · 8½ oz
6 dl milk (for the batter) · 2½ cups
0.5 tsp salt (for the batter)
0.25 tsp pepper (for the batter)
0.25 tsp nutmeg (for the batter)
250 g grated cheese · 8⅞ oz
45 g butter (for the batter) · 1⅝ oz
5 pcs eggs (separated into yolks and whites)
2 tbsp truffle (finely chopped)

Total time: 3 t 30 min
Active time: 1 t 30 min
Difficulty: hard

About the dish

One of the grand French-inspired festive dishes in Erken's veal chapter. The saddle of veal is first roasted/steamed as in the recipe «Saddle of veal with macaroni», carved, laid back on the bone and covered with a thick cheese batter with truffles before being gratinéed. The ingredient list ran in a narrow column beside the text.

How to make it

1
Prepare the meat
Wash and dry the saddle of veal, lard it with strips of fatback and season with salt and pepper. Roast/steam it as in the recipe for saddle of veal with macaroni, together with the carrot and meat stock. Save the pan juices.
2
The sauce
Boil the finely chopped onion for 3 minutes in boiling water, then drain. Let the onion continue cooking in 1 tbsp butter for 10 minutes without browning. Add the white sauce, salt and sugar, and let it steep gently over low heat for 15 minutes. Press the sauce through a fine sieve, stir in the cream and the 60 g butter.
3
Reassemble the meat
Carve the meat off the bone in slices. Put a little sauce on the bone, lay the slices back in place, ideally with thin slices of cooked tongue or ham and a little sauce between the slices.
4
The batter
Put the flour in a pot, stir in the milk a little at a time, add salt, pepper and nutmeg. Set over the heat and bring to a boil while stirring constantly. Remove from the heat immediately and stir in the grated cheese, butter and egg yolks. Finally fold in the stiffly beaten egg whites and the chopped truffle.
5
Gratinéeing
Cover the entire surface of the meat with an approximately 2 cm thick layer of the batter. Set a piece of greased parchment paper high around the meat, not over it. Place the saddle of veal on the serving dish into a hot oven, about 225 °C (435 °F), for 15 minutes.
6
Serving
Remove the paper and plate the saddle of veal at once. Serve the pan juices from the meat and the white sauce separately.

Changes from the original

Measurements have been converted to modern units (deciliters, grams, tbsp/tsp), pork fat given as fatback for larding, «white sauce» kept as a term. The oven temperature is specified (the original just says «hot oven»). The steps have been broken up and the language modernized.

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Frequently asked questions

How long does the dish take, and how many does it serve?: The recipe serves 8 and has a total time of about 210 minutes (3.5 hours). It is from Henriette Schønberg Erken's «Stor kokebok» (1914), page 203.
Which cut of meat is used?: 2 kg saddle of veal. It is prepared as described under «saddle of veal with macaroni» (page 201 in the same book): the meat is cut into slices that are laid back on the bone, with a little sauce in between.
How is the onion sauce made?: 250 g finely chopped onion is boiled for 3 minutes in boiling water, drained, and the onion continues cooking in a spoonful of butter for 10 minutes without browning. Then 2 1/2 dl white sauce, salt and sugar are added, and everything steeps over low heat for a quarter of an hour before being pressed through a fine sieve.
What is the «batter» made of?: A thick cheese batter of 240 g wheat flour, 6 dl milk, 45 g butter, 5 eggs, 250 g grated cheese, 2 tablespoons finely chopped truffle, plus salt, pepper and nutmeg.

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