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Veal fricandeau (fricandeau de veau)

Erken's fricandeau of veal leg: finger-thick slices of meat are formed into round cakes, larded, browned in butter, and cooked in a pot on a bed of carrot, onion, and pork rind, with veal stock reduced and used to glaze the meat repeatedly in the oven. Served hot or cold on a rice base with ice-cold mayonnaise salad.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 206 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

Fricandeau is a classic French-inspired cut of veal that is larded and glazed. Erken presents it as a festive dish that can be served both hot and cold, with a rice base and ice-cold mayonnaise salad – typical of the plating culture of the full kitchen around 1914.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Prepare the meat

    Cut the veal into finger-thick slices and form them into small round "cakes". Lard them with strips of fatback and season with salt and pepper.

  2. 2

    Brown the meat

    Brown the pieces of meat in butter on all sides in a pan.

  3. 3

    Arrange in the pot

    Lightly fry the onion and carrot in the butter. Place them in the bottom of a pot together with the pork rind that has been dipped in boiling water. Lay the browned pieces of meat on top.

  4. 4

    Reduce the jus

    Moisten with a little veal stock, set the pot over low heat, and reduce the jus, covered. Add a little more stock and reduce to a glaze.

  5. 5

    Baking in the oven

    Add enough stock that the meat is half covered, and place the pot in a moderately hot oven, about 175 °C (345 °F). Baste often with the stock so the meat does not dry out. Allow about 1 hour.

  6. 6

    Test whether the meat is done

    Pierce the meat with a coarse skewer; if the liquid that comes out is colorless, the meat is cooked through.

  7. 7

    Glaze

    Bring the pot to the front of the oven and spoon the meat's own jus over it, then return it to the oven. Repeat about 8 times, until the meat is shiny and glazed.

  8. 8

    Serve

    Arrange the meat, hot or cold, on a base of rice, and serve ice-cold mayonnaise salad alongside.

Changes from the original

Amounts are converted to modern measures (grams/deciliters), "flesk" is specified as fatback/fatty pork belly for larding, and "kalvesky" is described as veal stock. The oven temperature is given numerically (about 175 °C (345 °F)), and the cooking time is estimated, since the original does not state it.

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Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

1949 (proofread, p. 235) → 1914 (proofread, p. 206)~94% of the text changedremovedadded
Til fricandeau brukes den innvendige side Kalvekjøt (ca. 1 kg. av låret, skåret langsmed kjøttrevlene. Stykket laaret) flesk løk 30 gr. gulerøtter 50 gr. fleskesvor 100 gr. smør. Kjøttet skjæres ut like inntil benet; la kniven følge den hinne fingertykt, dannes til smaa runde «kaker»; spækkes og brunes i smør paa alle sider. I en gryte belægges bunden med de let stekte røtter samt fleskesvoren, som omslutter dette stykke kjøtt; det er da en lett sak å skjære fricandeauen pent ut. Fricandeauen kan enten stekes hel dyppet i kokende vand; de stekte eller skjæres op til mindre fricandeauer, wienerschnitzler o. s. v. Kjøttet befries for alt skinn, dannes pent til, bedekkes rundt om brunede kjøtstykker lægges herpaa, fugtes med flesk. Gulerot, selleri litt kalvesky, sættes over svak varme, og løk skjæres smått op skyen indkokes under lok. Litt sky heldes igjen paa og legges i bunnen av gryten, kjøttstykket legges herpå; en suppevisk legges i. Man tilsteller så indkokes som glassur; nu heldes saa meget kjøttkraft sky paa, at kjøttstykket kjøttet er dekket; smurt papir legges over, og det småtrekker over svak varme 1—1½ time; dryppes hvert tiende minutt. Fricandeauen tas op, legges halvt dækket; sættes ind i en stekepanne, middelsvarm ovn, dryppes ofte for ikke at bli tørt. Naar kjøttet er færdig, — prøv med en grov pinde, er den væske, som settes i varm ovn i 5 minutter eller til fleskelet fremkommer, farveløs, er glasert. Kraften siles, befries for fett kjøttet gjennemkokt —, glasseres det ved at man foran ovnen overhelder det med litt av sin egen sky, sætter det tilbake i ovnen, og kokes inn til glasur. Denne innkokte kjøttskyv helles over kjøttet, som anrettes på dette gjentages ca. 8 ganger, hvorefter kjøttet tages ut av ovnen. Serveres varmt eller koldt paa en høide sokkel av salat. Pyntes med tarteletter, fylt ris med forskjellige grønnsaker og stuet spinat. Tomatsaus serveres en iskold mayonnaisesalat til.

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Frequently asked questions

Which part of the calf is used?
About 1 kg veal from the leg. The meat is cut finger-thick and formed into small round "cakes", which are larded with pork and browned in butter on all sides.
How do I know the meat is done?
Pierce the meat with a coarse skewer: if the liquid that comes out is colorless, the meat is done. Total preparation takes around 2.5 hours.
What is placed in the bottom of the pot?
Lightly fried root vegetables (30 g carrots, onion) and pork rind dipped in boiling water. The pieces of meat are placed on top, moistened with veal jus, and the jus is reduced in several stages to a glaze before the dish is placed in a moderately hot oven.
Where does the recipe come from?
From Henriette Schønberg Erken's "Stor kokebok" (1914), page 206.

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