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Cold beef tenderloin

Cold, larded beef tenderloin from Erken's Stor kokebok (1914): cooked pink in a pot with cream and red wine, chilled, sliced, and glazed with madeira aspic, garnished with horseradish and stuffed tomatoes.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 25 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

Cold beef tenderloin was a typical buffet and party dish in Erken's day, where glazing with aspic both kept the meat moist and gave it a festive appearance. The dish belongs to the chapter "Hot and cold small dishes" in Stor kokebok (1914).

How to make it

  1. 1

    Prepare the tenderloin

    Trim the tenderloin of sinew and membrane, pound the meat lightly, and lard it with thin strips of pork fat.

  2. 2

    Brown and cook

    Brown the tenderloin in butter in a pot. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, rub in the onion slices, and drizzle over the cream and red wine. Continue cooking in the pot about 20–25 minutes depending on thickness; the meat should be red inside.

  3. 3

    Cool

    Lift the tenderloin out immediately and let it cool completely.

  4. 4

    Arrange

    Cut a lengthwise slice off the bottom and place it on the platter. Slice the rest of the tenderloin and lay the slices back in place so the tenderloin looks whole again.

  5. 5

    Cook the aspic

    Bring the wine, madeira, water, bouillon cubes (or stock), soaked gelatin, and gravy browning to a boil. Strain the aspic and let it cool until it is thick and syrupy.

  6. 6

    Glaze

    Brush the aspic over the meat several times, letting it dry between each coat, until the tenderloin is fully glazed.

  7. 7

    Garnish

    Garnish the tenderloin with coarsely grated horseradish and tomato halves filled with button mushrooms in mayonnaise.

Changes from the original

"del." is interpreted as deciliters, "flesk" as fatty pork fat for larding, and Maggi tablets are modernized to bouillon cubes (or stock as an alternative). Gelatin sheets are kept, with modern soaking instructions. Oven temperature and cooking time have been specified.

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Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

From19141949Modernised
To19141949Modernised
1949 (proofread, p. 34) → 1914 (proofread, p. 25)~41% of the text changedremovedadded
i 1 kg. oksefilet 60 gr. flesk 80 gr. smør salt pepper 2 løk 3 del. fløte 3 del. rødvin i % 1 1/4 del. madeira iy 4 1 1/4 del. vann 2 norexbuljongterninger vand 6 maggitabletter eller i 1 del. kjøttkraft y 2 teskje kjøtkraft 1 teske kulør 4 plater gelatin. gelatin Fileten befries for alle sener og skinn, skind, bankes, spekkes, spækkes, brunes i smør, bestrøes med salt og pepper, gnis gnides med løkskiver, dryppes med fløte og rødvin. Stekes i gryte ca. 20 til 25 minutter minutter, efter tykkelsen; den skal være rød innvendig. Tas indvendig. Tages straks op og avkjøles. En skive skjæres av nederst langsefter, legges på lægges paa fatet, og den i skiver skårne skaarne filet legges på lægges paa som hel. — Vin, vann, buljongterninger, vand, buljongtabletter, gelatin og kulør gis gives et opkok. Geléen Geleen siles, avkjøles og pensles over kjøttet flere ganger, så saa det til slutt tilslut er helt gla sert. glasseret. Fileten pyntes med grovreven pepperrot pepperrot, og overskårne overskaarne tomater, fylt fyldt med champignons i majones. mayonnaise.

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Frequently asked questions

How long should the tenderloin cook?
About 20–25 minutes in the pot, depending on thickness. It should be red inside and is lifted out at once to cool.
Why is the total time 5 hours when the cooking time is so short?
The cooking itself takes only 20–25 minutes, but the meat must cool completely, and the aspic of madeira, red wine, water, bouillon (Maggi cubes), gelatin, and gravy browning has to be boiled, strained, cooled, and brushed over the meat several times. That takes time.
How is the tenderloin arranged on the platter?
A lengthwise slice is cut off the bottom and placed on the platter. The rest of the tenderloin is sliced and laid on top like a whole tenderloin, then brushed with aspic.
What gives the meat flavor during cooking?
The tenderloin is larded with pork fat, browned in butter, sprinkled with salt and pepper, rubbed with onion slices, and drizzled with cream and red wine.

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