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Gravlaks (Cured Salmon)

Erken's gravlaks from 1914: a center cut of salmon or trout is filleted, rubbed with sugar (and saltpeter), sprinkled with salt, pressed together, and cured cold. Served with a sauce of sugar, wine vinegar, olive oil, French mustard, and white pepper.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 641 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

Erken's short gravlaks recipe from the slaughter chapter, where the salting and preserving of meat and fish is covered. Note that she allows only about 5 hours of curing time — far shorter than today's 1–3 days.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Prepare the fish

    Fillet the center cut of the salmon or mountain trout, clean it well, and remove all the bones. Dry the flesh sides with a clean cloth.

  2. 2

    Season

    Mix the sugar with the saltpeter, if using, and rub it into the flesh sides. Then sprinkle a thin layer of salt over them.

  3. 3

    Press together

    Lay the two flesh sides against each other, wrap them in plastic, or place them in a dish with a little weight on top.

  4. 4

    Curing

    Let the fish rest in a cool place. Erken serves it after about 5 hours; today, 24–48 hours in the refrigerator is recommended. Turn the package once a day.

  5. 5

    Sauce

    Stir together the sugar, wine vinegar, French mustard, and white pepper, and whisk in the oil to make a smooth sauce.

  6. 6

    Serving

    Slice the gravlaks into thin slices on the diagonal, away from the skin, and serve with the sauce.

Changes from the original

Quantities are estimated and given in modern measurements (the original gives no weights). Saltpeter has been made optional and can be omitted; the sugar/salt mixture is given in practical amounts. The curing time has been extended to 1–2 days in the refrigerator as modern practice and food safety dictate, with the original's 5 hours mentioned in the text. Dill is not added, as the original does not mention it.

Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

From19141949Modernised
To19141949Modernised
Modernised → 1914 (proofread, p. 641)~90% of the text changedremovedadded
1,2 kg laksemidtstykke Midtpartiet av en laks eller stor fjellørret (flekket i to sider, uten bein). 3 ss sukker. 3 ss salt (strøs tynt). 1 ts større fjeldørret like meget salpeter (natriumnitrat) (valgfritt, kan sløyfes). 2 ts og sukker (til sausen). 2 ss vineddik (til sausen). 4 ss olivenolje (til sausen). 2 ss salt Saus: sukker, vineddik, olivenolje, fransk sennep (til sausen). 0,5 ts sennep, hvit pepper (til sausen). Flekk midtstykket Midtpartiet av laksen en laks eller fjellørreten, rens den godt større fjeldørret flækkes, renses og fjern alle bein. Tørk kjøttsidene befries for ben; indgnides med et rent klede.. Bland sukker og eventuelt like meget salpeter og gni det inn i kjøttsidene. Strø deretter et tynt lag salt over.. Legg de to kjøttsidene mot hverandre, pakk dem i plast eller legg dem i et fat sukker og strøes tyndt med litt press over.. La fisken ligge kjølig. Erken serverer den etter salt, hvorefter kjøtsiderne lægges sammen. Kan serveres efter ca. 5 timer; i dag anbefales 24–48 timer i kjøleskap. Snu pakken en gang i døgnet.. Rør sammen timer. Bør opbevares paa et kjølig sted. Saus: En blanding av sukker, vineddik, olivenolje, fransk sennep og hvit pepper, og pisk oljen inn i en jevn saus.. Skjær gravlaksen i tynne skiver på skrå fra skinnet og server med sausen. pepper.

Note on Modernised

Mengder er anslått og oppgitt i moderne mål (originalen oppgir ingen vekter). Salpeter er gjort valgfritt og kan sløyfes; sukker/salt-blandingen er angitt i praktiske mengder. Gravetiden er utvidet til 1–2 døgn i kjøleskap slik moderne praksis og mattrygghet tilsier, med originalens 5 timer nevnt i teksten. Dill er ikke tilsatt, da originalen ikke nevner det.

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Frequently asked questions

How long must the gravlaks rest before serving?
According to the recipe, it can be served after just about 5 hours, but it may well rest longer (the stated total time is about 24 hours) in a cool place.
Which part of the fish is used?
The center section of a salmon or a larger mountain trout. The fish is filleted, cleaned, and boned, rubbed with equal parts saltpeter and sugar, sprinkled thinly with salt, and the flesh sides are pressed together.
What is it served with?
A sauce of sugar, wine vinegar, olive oil, French mustard, and white pepper.
Where does the recipe come from?
From Henriette Schønberg Erken's "Stor kokebok" (1914), page 641, in the chapter on slaughtering, salting, and preserving.

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