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Fruit Ice (glaces aux fruits)

Erken's basic recipe for fruit ice / sorbet (1914): a clear sugar syrup of 300 g sugar and 3.5 dl water is mixed with 1 l fruit purée or juice, the juice of 1 lemon and optionally liqueur; cream is added for ices of red berries. Freezing time at least 1 hour longer than cream ice.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 511 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

The basic recipe for fruit ice in "Stor kokebok" (1914). Erken here describes the principle – a sugar syrup with added fruit purée, lemon juice and optionally liqueur – that underlies all the individual fruit ices in the chapter. She assumes the mass is tested with a sugar gauge (saccharometer), a common aid in the finer kitchen of the day.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Boil the sugar syrup

    Boil the sugar and water to a clear syrup, about 15 minutes. Skim well along the way and cool the syrup.

  2. 2

    Prepare the fruit

    Press the fruit through a fine sieve, or crush it and strain off the juice.

  3. 3

    Mix

    Mix the fruit purée or juice with the sugar syrup and add the juice of the lemon, and optionally orange as well. For ices of red berries, 2.5 dl of cream can be stirred in per liter of ice. Season with a little liqueur if desired.

  4. 4

    Check the sweetness

    Test the cold mixture with a sugar gauge. If it reads over 22°, thin with a little boiled, cold water; if it reads under, stir in a little more dissolved sugar. Without a sugar gauge: the mass should taste distinctly sweet and tart, since the flavor becomes milder when frozen.

  5. 5

    Freeze

    Freeze in an ice cream maker, or in a mold in the freezer stirring every half hour. Fruit ice needs at least one hour longer freezing time than cream ice.

  6. 6

    Serve

    The ice melts fast and should therefore be turned out of the mold just before serving.

Changes from the original

Measures have been converted to modern units (del = deciliter). The sugar amount is given as a range as the original does, with a recommendation of about 300 g as a starting point. Freezing in an ice cabinet/ice bucket is described as an ice cream maker or freezing in a mold with stirring.

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Time machine – what changed?

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From19141949Modernised
To19141949Modernised
Modernised → 1914 (proofread, p. 511)~88% of the text changedremovedadded
300 g 100—500 gr. sukker (100–500 g etter hvor søt og saftig frukten er). 3,5 dl vann. 3½ del. vand 1 l fruktpuré l. frugtpuré eller fruktsaft. saft citronsaft. Grundlaget for disse iser er en sukkersirup, tilsat en frugtpuré og en eller anden likør samt citronsaft. Saft av 1 stk sitron (saften; eventuelt citron til 1 l. frugtis. Saft av ½ sitron citron og ½ appelsin). 2,5 dl kremfløte (bare til appelsin gir en udmerket god smak. Man kan benytte baade saft av frisk frugt og av bortkokt frugt eller saft. Til is av røde bær). likør (etter ønske). Kok sukker frugter bør tilsættes 2½ del. fløte pr. 1 l. is. Sukker og vann vand kokes til en klar sirup, sirup; koker ca. 15 minutter. Skum godt underveis ¼ time, skummes. Hvor meget sukker man tar, avhænger av, hvor søt og avkjøl laken.. Press frukten gjennom en hårsikt, eller knus saftig den og sil av saften.. Bland fruktpuré frugt er, som man bruker. Frugten presses gjennem haarsigt eller saft med sukkerlaken knuses og tilsett saft av sitron, eventuelt også appelsin. Til is av røde bær kan 2,5 dl fløte røres inn per liter is. Smak eventuelt til siles og blandes med litt likør.. Prøv den kalde blandingen sukkerlaken, tilsættes citron- eller citron- og appelsinsaften. Den kolde blanding bør helst prøves med sukkermåler. en sukkermaaler (saccharometer). Viser den denne over 22°, spe spædes med litt kokt, kaldt vann; koldt vand; viser den derimot under, rør inn tilsættes litt mer oppløst mere opløst sukker. Uten sukkermåler: massen skal smake tydelig søt og syrlig, da smaken blir mildere når Frugtis fryses paa samme maate som fløteis, men den fryses.. Frys i iskremmaskin, eller i form maa staa i fryseren med omrøring hver halvtime. Fruktis trenger minst én maskinen mindst 1 time lenger frysetid enn fløteis.. Isen længer. Den smelter fort hurtig og bør maa derfor hvelves ut av formen like hvælves umiddelbart før serveringen.

Note on Modernised

Mål er omregnet til moderne enheter (del = desiliter). Sukkermengden er angitt som et spenn slik originalen gjør, med anbefaling om ca. 300 g som utgangspunkt. Frysing i isskap/isbøtte er beskrevet som iskremmaskin eller frysing i form med omrøring.

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Frequently asked questions

What is the basis for fruit ice?
A clear sugar syrup of 100–500 g of sugar and 3½ deciliters of water, boiled about a quarter of an hour and skimmed. The syrup is mixed with 1 liter of fruit purée or juice, lemon juice and optionally a little liqueur.
How much lemon should I use?
The juice of 1 lemon per liter of fruit ice. Alternatively, the juice of ½ lemon and ½ orange gives an excellent flavor.
Why does the amount of sugar vary so much (100–500 g)?
Because it depends on how sweet and juicy the fruit is. Tart, less sweet fruit requires more sugar than ripe, sweet fruit.
Can I use something other than fresh fruit?
Yes, both the juice of fresh fruit and of cooked-down fruit or ready-made juice can be used. The fruit is pressed through a fine sieve, or crushed and strained. For ices of red fruits you should add 2½ deciliters of cream per liter of ice.

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