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Fruit Ice (glaces aux fruits)

Erken's basic recipe for fruit ice / sorbet (1914): a clear sugar syrup of 300 g sugar and 3.5 dl water is mixed with 1 l fruit purée or juice, the juice of 1 lemon and optionally liqueur; cream is added for ices of red berries. Freezing time at least 1 hour longer than cream ice.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 511 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

The basic recipe for fruit ice in "Stor kokebok" (1914). Erken here describes the principle – a sugar syrup with added fruit purée, lemon juice and optionally liqueur – that underlies all the individual fruit ices in the chapter. She assumes the mass is tested with a sugar gauge (saccharometer), a common aid in the finer kitchen of the day.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Boil the sugar syrup

    Boil the sugar and water to a clear syrup, about 15 minutes. Skim well along the way and cool the syrup.

  2. 2

    Prepare the fruit

    Press the fruit through a fine sieve, or crush it and strain off the juice.

  3. 3

    Mix

    Mix the fruit purée or juice with the sugar syrup and add the juice of the lemon, and optionally orange as well. For ices of red berries, 2.5 dl of cream can be stirred in per liter of ice. Season with a little liqueur if desired.

  4. 4

    Check the sweetness

    Test the cold mixture with a sugar gauge. If it reads over 22°, thin with a little boiled, cold water; if it reads under, stir in a little more dissolved sugar. Without a sugar gauge: the mass should taste distinctly sweet and tart, since the flavor becomes milder when frozen.

  5. 5

    Freeze

    Freeze in an ice cream maker, or in a mold in the freezer stirring every half hour. Fruit ice needs at least one hour longer freezing time than cream ice.

  6. 6

    Serve

    The ice melts fast and should therefore be turned out of the mold just before serving.

Changes from the original

Measures have been converted to modern units (del = deciliter). The sugar amount is given as a range as the original does, with a recommendation of about 300 g as a starting point. Freezing in an ice cabinet/ice bucket is described as an ice cream maker or freezing in a mold with stirring.

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Time machine – what changed?

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1949 (proofread, p. 589) → 1914 (proofread, p. 511)~78% of the text changedremovedadded
Frukt-is. (Glaces aux fruits.) Grunnlaget 100—500 gr. sukker 3½ del. vand 1 l. frugtpuré eller saft citronsaft. Grundlaget for disse iser er en sukkersirup, tilsatt tilsat en fruktpuré frugtpuré og en eller annen anden likør samt sitronsaft. citronsaft. Saft av ½ sitron 1 citron til ½ 1 l. frukt-is. frugtis. Saft av ¾ sitron ½ citron og ½ appelsin gir en utmerket udmerket god smak. Man kan benytte både baade saft av frisk frukt frugt og av bortkokt frukt frugt eller saft. Til is av røde frukter frugter bør tilsettes 2% tilsættes 2½ del. fløte pr. ½ 1 l. is. Sukker og vann vand kokes som ovenfor forklart. Alt hvitt skjæres fra appelsinskallet; dette skjæres i små stykker til en klar sirup; koker ca. ¼ time, skummes. Hvor meget sukker man tar, avhænger av, hvor søt og legges i saftig den varme lake til laken er kold, siles. Den utpressede saft tilsettes, frugt er, som man bruker. Frugten presses gjennem haarsigt eller knuses og alt siles direkte og blandes med sukkerlaken, tilsættes citron- eller citron- og appelsinsaften. Den kolde blanding bør helst prøves med en sukkermaaler (saccharometer). Viser denne over 22°, spædes med litt kokt, koldt vand; viser den derimot under, tilsættes litt mere opløst sukker. Frugtis fryses paa samme maate som fløteis, men den maa staa i frysemaskinen. Fryses. Til 6 personer. 100–500 gr. melis 3½ del. vann maskinen mindst 1 l. fruktpuré eller saft sitronsaft. time længer. Den smelter hurtig og maa derfor hvælves umiddelbart før serveringen.

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Frequently asked questions

What is the basis for fruit ice?
A clear sugar syrup of 100–500 g of sugar and 3½ deciliters of water, boiled about a quarter of an hour and skimmed. The syrup is mixed with 1 liter of fruit purée or juice, lemon juice and optionally a little liqueur.
How much lemon should I use?
The juice of 1 lemon per liter of fruit ice. Alternatively, the juice of ½ lemon and ½ orange gives an excellent flavor.
Why does the amount of sugar vary so much (100–500 g)?
Because it depends on how sweet and juicy the fruit is. Tart, less sweet fruit requires more sugar than ripe, sweet fruit.
Can I use something other than fresh fruit?
Yes, both the juice of fresh fruit and of cooked-down fruit or ready-made juice can be used. The fruit is pressed through a fine sieve, or crushed and strained. For ices of red fruits you should add 2½ deciliters of cream per liter of ice.

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