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Grape Sorbet (sorbet de raisin)

Erken's grape sorbet 1914: a clarified sugar syrup steeped with citrus zest, mixed with lemon and orange juice, half-frozen, then stirred with strained grape purée, sherry and elderberry juice; served barely frozen in shallow glasses.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 514 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

Sorbet was served by Erken after the starters, that is, before the roast, as a light, barely frozen refreshment. Egg white and crushed eggshell were used to clarify the sugar syrup, an old confectioner's technique.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Boil the syrup

    Boil sugar, cream of tartar, water, the stiffly whipped egg white and the crushed eggshell together to a smooth syrup.

  2. 2

    Steep with zest

    Pour the boiling syrup over orange and lemon zest with all the white cut away. Cover and let it stand until the syrup is cold.

  3. 3

    Add juice and strain

    Stir in the lemon and orange juice, and strain the mixture through a fine sieve.

  4. 4

    Half-freeze

    Freeze the mixture in an ice cream machine, or in the freezer with stirring, until it is half-frozen.

  5. 5

    Grapes and wine

    Press the grapes through a fine sieve and stir the purée into the sorbet along with the sherry and elderberry juice.

  6. 6

    Re-freeze and serve

    Freeze a few minutes more, until the mixture is again half-frozen. Serve at once in shallow glasses; add a little fresh fruit sprinkled with maraschino if desired.

Changes from the original

Quantities are converted to modern units (wine glass ≈ 1 dl, knife-point ≈ ¼ tsp). A hair sieve is replaced with a fine sieve, and freezing is described for an ice cream machine or freezer with stirring instead of a hand-cranked freezing machine.

Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

1914 (proofread, p. 514) → Modernised~83% of the text changedremovedadded
1 1/2 kg. sukker 1 knivsod 1,5 kg sukker. 0,25 ts kremortartari (1 knivsodd). 1 l. vand l vann. 1 stk eggehvite og (stivpisket, til klaring). 1 eggeskal stk eggeskall (knust, til klaring). 6 citroner stk sitroner (saft, samt skallet av noen). 2 stk appelsiner 1/4 kg. druer (saft og skall). 250 g druer. 1 vinglas dl sherry (1 vinglass). 1 vinglas hyldebærvand. Sukker, dl hyllebærsaft (hyldebærvand). frisk frukt og maraschino (til pynt). Kok sukker, kremortartari, vand, vann, den stivvispede eggehvite stivpiskede eggehviten og det knuste eggeskal kokes eggeskallet sammen til en jevn sirup. Denne heldes sirup.. Hell den kokende sirupen over appelsin- og citronskallet, hvorfra sitronskall der alt hvitt det hvite er bortskaaret, tildækkes, staar skåret bort. Dekk til siruppen og la stå til sirupen er kold, tilsættes citron- kald.. Rør inn sitron- og appelsinsaften. Siles appelsinsaften, sil blandingen gjennom finmasket sil.. Frys blandingen i iskremmaskin, eller i fryseren med omrøring, til den er halvfrossen.. Press druene gjennom finmasket sil og halvfryses. Druerne presses gjennem haarsigt, irøres vinen rør puréen inn i sorbeten sammen med sherry og hyldebærvandet. Fryses nogen hyllebærsaft.. Frys noen minutter længer, til, til det massen igjen er halvfrossent. Serveres halvfrossen. Server straks i flate glas; ganske litet, glass; legg eventuelt i litt frisk frugt, stænket frukt stenket med litt maraschino, kan lægges i. Serveres øieblikkelig. maraschino.

Note on Modernised

Mengder er omregnet til moderne enheter (vinglass ≈ 1 dl, knivsodd ≈ 1/4 ts). Hårsikt er erstattet med finmasket sil, og frysing er beskrevet for iskremmaskin eller fryser med omrøring i stedet for håndsveivet frysemaskin.

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Frequently asked questions

Why are egg white and crushed eggshell used in the syrup?
They are used to clarify the syrup: the stiffly whipped egg white and the crushed eggshells gather impurities as the syrup boils, and the sorbet is strained afterward so it becomes clear.
How should the lemon and orange zest be treated?
All the white pith should be cut away. The boiling syrup is poured over the zest, covered and left until the syrup is cold - then the aroma draws out. After that the lemon and orange juice are added.
When are the grapes and wine added?
The mixture is half-frozen first. Then the grapes are pressed through a fine sieve, sherry (1 wine glass) and elderberry water (1 wine glass) are stirred in, and the sorbet is frozen a few minutes more until it is again half-frozen.
How is the grape sorbet served?
In shallow glasses, immediately once it is done. You can add a little fresh fruit sprinkled with a little maraschino. The recipe is intended for 10 servings (Stor kokebok 1914, p. 514).

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