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Sweetbread Soup (potage aux ris de veau)

Sweetbread soup (potage aux ris de veau) from Erken 1914: veal sweetbreads are soaked and simmered with pork, root vegetables, and spices, the stock reduced with veal broth and thickened with butter and flour; served with cubes of sweetbread and salted beef tongue, finished in the tureen with egg yolks, cream, butter, white wine, and lemon juice.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 37 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

A distinguished party soup from the soup chapter of «Stor kokebok» (1914). Sweetbreads (veal sweetbreads) were a highly valued ingredient in the bourgeois kitchen, and the soup is finished at the end with egg yolks, cream, wine, and lemon right in the tureen.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Prepare the sweetbreads

    Put the sweetbreads in cold water for 3–4 hours, changing the water a few times. Then blanch them.

  2. 2

    Simmer with pork and roots

    Cut the pork into slices and put them in a pot together with the cleaned, sliced roots, the onion, and the sweetbreads. Let it simmer gently for ½ hour, but it must not brown.

  3. 3

    Cook the stock

    Add enough water to cover well. Skim when it comes to a boil, and add salt, peppercorns, bay leaf, and parsley. Simmer until the sweetbreads are cooked through.

  4. 4

    Lift out the sweetbreads

    Lift out the sweetbreads and pour cold water over them. Let the stock continue to reduce together with the veal broth.

  5. 5

    Thicken the soup

    Stir together 100 g butter and the flour, thin with the hot stock, and let the soup simmer for ¼ hour.

  6. 6

    Cut up the meat

    Cut the sweetbreads and the beef tongue into small squares.

  7. 7

    Thickening and plating

    Stir the egg yolks with the cold water, add the cream and the 20 g butter cut into small pieces. Place this in the tureen together with the wine and lemon juice, along with the sweetbread and tongue pieces. Pour the hot soup over while stirring and serve at once.

Changes from the original

Quantities are given in modern measures (dl, g, tablespoons). «Rhine wine» is specified as a dry white wine of the Rhine-wine type. «Flesk» is interpreted as fresh, fatty pork belly. The method is divided into numbered steps.

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Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

From19141949Modernised
To19141949Modernised
Modernised → 1949 (proofread, p. 49)~81% of the text changedremovedadded
3 par kalvebrissel. (Potage aux ris de veau.) ¾ kg. brissel 100 g gr. flesk (skåret i skiver). 1 stk gulrot. gulerot 1 stk selleri (selleriknoll). 1 stk løk. 2 stk hele pepperkorn. 1 stk laurbærblad (lite). skive løk 1 bunt persille. persille 2 l kalvekraft (buljong 1. buljong av kalv). 200 g saltet, kokt oksetunge. 100 g kalv 60 gr. smør (til jevningen). 100 g hvetemel. 1 dl hvitvin (rhinskvin). 60 gr. hvetemel ½ del. rhinskvin 1 ts sitronsaft. teskje sitronsaft 2 stk eggeplommer. eggeplommer 1 ss kaldt vann. 2 ss fløte. 20 g smør (kaldt, i små biter). salt (etter smak). Legg brislene i kaldt spiseskje koldt vann i 3–4 20 gr. smør. Brislene utvannes 3 å 4 timer, skift vannet noen ganger. Blansjer dem deretter.. Skjær fleskene blancheres. Flesket skjæres i skiver og legg dem i en gryte sammen med legges tillikemed de rensede, oppskårne røttene, løken opskårne røtter, løk og brislene. La det småtrekke brisler i ½ en gryte. Småtrekker ¾ time, men det må ikke brunes.. Hell på brunes; påhelles så mye meget vann at det nettop står godt over. Skum Skummes når det koker opp, koker, og tilsett salt, pepperkorn, laurbærblad tilsettes salt og persille. Kok persille, koker til brislene er gjennomkokte.. Ta opp brislene møre. Brislene tas op og hell kaldt vann over dem. La kraften koke overhelles med koldt vann. Kraften koker videre inn sammen med kalvekraften.. kalvebuljongen. Rør sammen 100 g smør og melet, mel sammen og spe med den varme kraften kraften, småtrekk ¾ time. Brislene skjæres op i små firkanter og la suppen småkoke serveres i ¼ time.. Skjær brislene suppen. Vin, sitron og oksetungen egge jevningen has i små firkanter.. terrinen: Rør eggeplommene med det kalde vannet, tilsett fløten vannet og de 20 g smør gr. smør, delt op i små biter. Legg dette i terrinen sammen med vin og sitronsaft, samt brissel- og tungebitene. Hell den varme suppen over under omrøring og server straks. stykker.

Note on Modernised

Mengder er satt i moderne mål (dl, g, spiseskjeer). «Rhinskvin» er angitt som tørr hvitvin av rhinskvinstype. Flesk er tolket som fersk, feit svinesideflesk. Fremgangsmåten er delt i nummererte trinn.

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Frequently asked questions

Why must the sweetbreads be soaked and blanched?
The sweetbreads are put in cold water for 3–4 hours to draw out blood, and then blanched. This gives a pale color and clean flavor, and makes membranes easier to remove. After simmering, cold water is poured over them so they stay firm and white.
How long does the soup take?
Allow about 5.5 hours in all for 8 servings. Most of it is soaking the sweetbreads (3–4 hours). The preparation itself consists of ½ hour of slow simmering with pork, root vegetables, and onion (without browning), then simmering until the sweetbreads are cooked through, and finally reducing the stock.
What are the soup thickened and finished with?
The soup is thickened with a roux of 100 g butter and 100 g wheat flour in 2 liters of veal broth, and seasoned with 1 deciliter of Rhine wine and 1 teaspoon of lemon juice. Finally it is finished with 2 egg yolks, 1 tablespoon of cold water, 2 tablespoons of cream, and 20 g butter – added without letting the soup boil afterward.
What is put in the soup at serving?
The finished, cut-up sweetbreads, together with 200 g salted, cooked beef tongue. The recipe is from Henriette Schønberg Erken's «Stor kokebok» (1914), p. 37.

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