Small anchovy soufflé from Erken's Stor kokebok 1914: a white base sauce of 15 g butter, 15 g flour and 1.5 dl milk is cooled, stirred with egg yolks, soaked mashed anchovies, anchovy brine, cayenne, pepper and salt, and stiffly beaten egg whites are folded in. Baked in small greased molds for 15–20 minutes and sprinkled with parsley before serving; can also be cooked in a water bath in one large mold.
Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 134 (falt i det fri)
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About the dish
Soufflés belonged to the fine cuisine around 1914, and Erken gives several small variations as starters or intermediate courses. Anchovy soufflé was a flavorful way to use salted anchovies, served piping hot straight from the oven.
How to make it
1
Make the base
Melt the butter, stir in the flour and add the milk. Bring it to a boil, take the pan off the heat and let the mixture cool thoroughly.
2
Season
Stir in the egg yolks, the cleaned, soaked and finely mashed anchovies, the anchovy brine, cayenne, pepper and salt.
3
Fold in the egg whites
Beat the egg whites until completely stiff and fold them gently into the mixture at the very end.
4
Bake
Grease quite small molds and fill them 3/4 full. Set them on a tray in the oven and bake at 175–180 °C (355 °F) for 15–20 minutes.
5
Serve immediately
Sprinkle finely chopped parsley over the top and serve the soufflés the moment they are done.
6
Variation
The mixture can also be filled into one large mold and cooked in a water bath until the soufflé has risen and is firm to the touch.
Changes from the original
Measurements have been converted to modern units. The amount of milk was unclear in the OCR text and has been interpreted as 1.5 dl. "1 1/2 egg yolk" has been rounded up to 2 egg yolks, and a baking temperature is given (175–180 °C (355 °F)) since the original does not state degrees.
📖1914
Original 1914 recipe
Verbatim from the first edition of the Big Cookbook.
Foto: Faksimile: Nasjonalbiblioteket
ProofreadPage 134
15 gr. smør
15 gr. hvetemel
1 1/2 del. melk
3 ansjos
1 teske ansjoslake
1 knivsod cayenne
1 — pepper
1 — salt
1 1/2 eggeblomme
2 eggehviter
1 spiseske finhakket persille.
Smørret smeltes, irøres melet, tilsættes melken, gives et opkok, tages av ilden, avkjøles godt, irøres eggeblommerne, de rensede, utvandede, fint utgnedne ansjos, ansjoslaken, cayenne, pepper og salt og tilsidst de stivvispede eggehviter.
Ganske smaa former smøres, fyldes 3/4 fulde med røren, sættes i stekeovnen paa en plate, steker 15—20 minutter. Idet de serveres, hvilket maa ske straks de er færdige, bestrøes de med den finhakkede persille.
NB. Røren kan haves i én stor form, koker da i vandbad, til den er hævet og fast at føle paa.
📖1949
Revised 1949 recipe
From the revised edition of the Big Cookbook.
Foto: Faksimile: Nasjonalbiblioteket
ProofreadPage 162
15 gr. smør
15 gr. hvetemel
⅔ del. melk
3 ansjos
1 teskje ansjoslake
1 knivsodd kajenne
⅛ — pepper
— salt
1½ eggeplomme
2 eggehviter
1 spiseskje finhakket persille.
Smøret smeltes, irøres melet, tilsettes melken, gis et opkok, tas av varmen, avkjøles godt, irøres eggeplommene, de rensede, utvannede, fint utgnidde ansjos, ansjoslaken, kajenne, pepper og salt, og tilsist de stivvispede eggehviter. Ganske små former smøres, fylles ¾ fulle med røren, settes i stekeovn på en plate, steker 15—20 minutter. Idet de serveres, hvilket må skje straks de er ferdige, bestrøes de med den finhakkede persille. NB. Røren kan has i én stor form, koker da i vannbad, til den er hevet og fast å føle på.
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1914 (korrekturlest, s. 134) → 1949 (korrekturlest, s. 162)~46% av teksten endretfjernetlagt til
15 gr. smør 15 gr. hvetemel 1 1/2 ⅔ del. melk 3 ansjos 1 teske teskje ansjoslake 1 knivsod cayenne 1 knivsodd kajenne ⅛ — pepper 1 — salt 1 1/2 eggeblomme 1½ eggeplomme 2 eggehviter 1 spiseske spiseskje finhakket persille. Smørret Smøret smeltes, irøres melet, tilsættes tilsettes melken, gives gis et opkok, tages tas av ilden, varmen, avkjøles godt, irøres eggeblommerne, eggeplommene, de rensede, utvandede, utvannede, fint utgnedne utgnidde ansjos, ansjoslaken, cayenne, kajenne, pepper og salt salt, og tilsidst tilsist de stivvispede eggehviter. Ganske smaa små former smøres, fyldes 3/4 fulde fylles ¾ fulle med røren, sættes settes i stekeovnen paa stekeovn på en plate, steker 15—20 minutter. Idet de serveres, hvilket maa ske må skje straks de er færdige, ferdige, bestrøes de med den finhakkede persille. NB. Røren kan haves has i én stor form, koker da i vandbad, vannbad, til den er hævet hevet og fast at å føle paa. på.
In quite small, greased molds filled 3/4 full it bakes for 15–20 minutes in the oven on a tray. If you put all the mixture in one large mold, cook it in a water bath until it has risen and is firm.
Why must the white sauce be cooled before the egg yolks are stirred in?
The roux (butter, flour and milk) is brought to a boil and cooled thoroughly, so that the egg yolks do not coagulate and curdle. Stiffly beaten egg whites are folded in at the very end so the air is preserved.
How are the anchovies prepared?
The three anchovies are cleaned, soaked and rubbed to a fine paste before they are stirred in together with 1 teaspoon anchovy brine, cayenne, pepper and salt.
Can the soufflé wait before serving?
No. The recipe from Henriette Schønberg Erken's Stor kokebok (1914) stresses that it must be served the moment it is done, and sprinkled with finely chopped parsley as it is set out.
