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Opening a Lobster

Erken's 1914 instructions for opening a boiled lobster: the claws are removed, the head and tail are split lengthwise, the chewing stomach (the 'pope') behind the eyes and the intestine (the 'string') are removed, the claws are cracked gently, and the roe and 'green' are saved.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 143 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

A short technical section in the fish chapter, placed right after Erken's instructions for boiling lobster. Lobster was festive fare in bourgeois homes, and the book assumes the cook handles the animal all the way from its live state to plating.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Remove the claws

    Twist or break the claws off the boiled, cooled lobster.

  2. 2

    Split the lobster

    Lay the lobster on its back and split the head and tail lengthwise with a heavy knife.

  3. 3

    Remove the stomach and intestine

    Remove the chewing stomach (the 'pope'), which lies at the front under the shell, just behind the eyes, and remove the intestine (the 'string') that runs backward along the top of the tail. The string may be white, red, or black depending on its contents.

  4. 4

    Crack the claws

    Crack the shells of the claws gently so the meat can be removed whole.

  5. 5

    Save the roe and the green

    Collect all the roe and all the 'green' (the liver); it is used for butters, sauces, and garnish.

Changes from the original

No ingredients are given in the original; the technique is rendered as steps in modern language. The technical terms 'chewing stomach (pope)' and 'string' are explained as the gizzard/stomach and the intestine.

Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

From19141949Modernised
To19141949Modernised
Modernised → 1949 (proofread, p. 172)~80% of the text changedremovedadded
1 stk kokt hummer (avkjølt i kokevannet). Vri eller bryt klørne av den kokte, avkjølte hummeren.. Legg Når hummeren på ryggen og kløv skal åpnes, kløves hode og hale igjennem på langs med en tung kniv.. Ta ut tyggemagen («paven») langs, efterat klørne er tatt av. Tyggemayen («paven»), som ligger fremme under ryggskallet, like bak øynene, og fjern tarmen («strengen») øinene, samt tarmen, som går bakover på ryggsiden av halen. halens ryggside og kalles strengen, fjernes. Strengen er forskjellig i kulør, den kan være hvit, rød eller svart alt etter innholdet.. Knekk skallene av og til efter innholdet sort. Skallene på klørne forsiktig, så kjøttet kan knekkes forsiktig. Rognen må tas ut helt.. Samle opp all rogn og vare på, likeså alt «grønt» (leveren) – det brukes til smør, sauser og pynt. «grønt».

Note on Modernised

Ingen ingredienser er oppgitt i originalen; teknikken er gjengitt som trinn i moderne språk. Fagordene «tyggemaven (paven)» og «strengen» er forklart som kråsen/magesekken og tarmen.

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Frequently asked questions

How do I open a boiled lobster properly?
First remove the claws. Then split the head and tail lengthwise. Crack the shells of the claws gently so the meat can be removed whole.
What must be removed before serving?
The chewing stomach (the 'pope'), which lies at the front under the shell just behind the eyes, and the intestine (the 'string') that runs backward along the top of the tail. The string may be white, red, or black depending on its contents.
Should I throw away the roe and the green?
No. According to Schønberg Erken (Stor kokebok 1914, p. 143), the roe should be saved, as should all the 'green'; it is often used in sauces and butters for lobster dishes.

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