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Vol-au-vent

Vol-au-vent from Erken's Stor kokebok (1914): puff pastry made from 250 g butter and 250 g flour rolled 1.5 cm thick, lined into a mold, blind-baked with rice/peas about 1 hour in a fairly hot oven, brushed with egg white, decorated with puff-pastry leaves and a lid, and filled at serving time with a hot ragout garnished with truffle and cooked crayfish.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 16 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

The vol-au-vent was a French showpiece starter that Erken counted among the finer "hot small dishes." The large puff-pastry shell was blind-baked with rice or dried peas as weight and filled with ragout only at serving time. The garnish of truffle and cooked crayfish shows just how festive the dish was.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Roll out the dough

    Make puff pastry from the butter and flour as described in the basic recipe, and roll it out 1.5 cm thick.

  2. 2

    Line the mold

    Line a mold with the dough. Lay in parchment paper and fill the mold with rice, peas, or beans as weight.

  3. 3

    Bake

    Bake in a fairly hot oven, about 190–200 °C (390 °F), for roughly 1 hour. Remove the paper and rice.

  4. 4

    Brown if desired

    If you want the vol-au-vent browner, put it back into a hot oven after removing it from the mold until it is nicely browned.

  5. 5

    Make the lid and decorate

    Make a lid from the same portion of dough, the same size as the vol-au-vent. Brush the vol-au-vent and the lid with beaten egg white, decorate with puff-pastry leaves, and brush these as well.

  6. 6

    Plating

    Set the hot vol-au-vent on a platter with a napkin, fill it with a ragout, and garnish with truffle slices and cooked crayfish along the edge. Place the lid on top and serve at once.

Changes from the original

Measurements have been converted to grams and cm; "tin mold" has been replaced with mold/cake pan, "kitchen paper" with parchment paper, and the baking temperature has been given a number since the original only says "fairly hot oven." Crayfish and truffle have been kept but listed as optional garnish.

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Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

From19141949Modernised
To19141949Modernised
1914 (proofread, p. 16) → Modernised~76% of the text changedremovedadded
Butterdeig av ¼ kg. 250 g smør og ¼ kg. mel (til butterdeigen). 250 g hvetemel (til butterdeigen). 500 g ris, tørkede erter eller bønner til fyld under stekningen (som bakevekt). 1 stk eggehvite ragout (pisket, til pensling). 8 dl ragu av fisk, kjøt kjøtt eller høns (varm, til fylling). trøffelskiver og (til pynt, valgfritt). 6 stk kokte krebs til pynt Butterdeig, laget som ovenfor beskrevet kreps (til pynt, valgfritt). Lag butterdeig av ¼ kg. smør og ¼ kg. mel, utkjevles 1½ cm. tyk. En blikform fores mel som beskrevet i grunnoppskriften, og kjevle den ut 1,5 cm tykk.. Kle en form med deigen; kjøkkenpapir lægges i, deigen. Legg bakepapir i og fyll formen fyldes med ris, erter eller bønner. Stekes bønner som vekt.. Stek i temmelig varm ovn ovn, ca. 190–200 °C, i omtrent 1 time. Papir Ta ut papir og ris fjernes. Vil man ha ris.. Ønsker du vol-au-venten brunere, kan den, efter settes den etter at den er tat tatt ut av formen, sættes ind formen inn i varm ovn, ovn til den er passe brun. Av samme butterdeigsportion lages brun.. Lag et lok lokk av samme deigporsjon, like stort som vol-au-venten. Smør Pensle vol-au-venten og lokket med pisket eggehvite. Pynt den eggehvite, pynt med butterdeigsblade, som ogsaa smøres. Ved anretningen sættes butterdeigsblad og pensle også disse.. Sett den varme vol-au-vent paa vol-au-venten på et fat med en serviet og fyldes serviett, fyll den med en eller anden ragout. Pyntes ragu og pynt med trøffelskiver og kokte krebs, som lægges rundt kreps langs kanten. Legg på lokket og server straks.

Note on Modernised

Mål er omregnet til gram og cm; «blikform» er erstattet med form/kakeform, «kjøkkenpapir» med bakepapir, og steketemperatur er tallfestet siden originalen bare sier «temmelig varm ovn». Kreps og trøffel er beholdt, men angitt som valgfri pynt.

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Frequently asked questions

Why is the mold filled with rice, peas, or beans?
It is blind baking: kitchen paper is laid in the dough and the mold is filled with rice, peas, or beans so the puff pastry keeps its shape while baking. The paper and rice are removed afterward.
How thick should the dough be rolled, and how long is the vol-au-vent baked?
The puff pastry made from ¼ kg butter and ¼ kg flour is rolled out 1½ cm thick and baked in a fairly hot oven for about 1 hour.
What is it filled with, and how is it garnished?
It is filled with a ragout of fish, meat, or chicken. Garnish with puff-pastry leaves, truffle slices, and cooked crayfish; the vol-au-vent is brushed with beaten egg white. A lid is also made from the same portion of dough.
How do I get it browner?
After it is removed from the mold, it can be put back into a hot oven until it is nicely browned.

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