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Wine Jelly with Gold or Silver Leaf (gelée dorée)

Clarified wine jelly of white wine (Graves) and sherry with lemon, clarified with egg white and eggshell, strained through a cloth and set in a mold; gold leaf is whisked in with a silver fork as the jelly begins to set. Made the day before, served with egg custard.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 494 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

From the chapter on jellies in Stor kokebok (1914). A festive, clarified wine jelly in which gold leaf (or silver leaf) is whisked into the jelly at the moment it begins to set, so the gold flakes hang like glitter in the clear jelly. Clarification with egg white and crushed eggshell is the classic method for a completely transparent jelly.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Soak the gelatin

    Place the gelatin sheets in cold water, rinse them well and cut them up.

  2. 2

    Mix everything cold

    Put the wine, sherry, water, the softened gelatin, the sugar, the lemon juice and the thinly pared lemon zest (without any white) in an enameled pot together with the unbeaten egg whites and the crushed eggshells. Whisk for a couple of minutes.

  3. 3

    Boil while whisking

    Set the pot over the heat and whisk continuously until it reaches the boiling point. Then stop whisking and let the jelly boil up to the rim of the pot.

  4. 4

    Let it steep

    Lift the pot off the heat, set it covered near the heat so it stays warm without boiling, and let it stand for 15 minutes.

  5. 5

    Strain clear

    Strain the jelly gently through a cloth moistened in hot water and tied firmly over an upside-down kitchen stool. Do not stir the sediment.

  6. 6

    Mold and gold leaf

    Pour the jelly into a moistened mold. When the jelly begins to set, whisk in the gold leaf with a silver fork – not too much, the gold should lie like flakes in the jelly.

  7. 7

    Cooling and serving

    Set the jelly cold; it should be made the day before it is to be served. Turn it out onto a platter and serve egg custard with it.

Changes from the original

The OCR was fragmented; the ingredient list has been reassembled. The amount of water was illegible and has been interpreted as ½ liter, "1/4 — sherry" as ¼ bottle (about 2 dl). "Graves" is a dry white Bordeaux wine – replaced with dry white wine. Gelatin sheets are given both in number and grams; the modern list uses grams. Measuring units modernized (del. → dl).

Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

From19141949Modernised
To19141949Modernised
1949 (proofread, p. 568) → Modernised~82% of the text changedremovedadded
Vingelé med bladgull eller sølv. (Gelée dorée.) Ingredienser: 40 g gelatinplater (ca. 20 plater (40 gr.) gelatin ¼ l. vann ½ flaske plater). 5 dl vann. 75 cl tørr hvitvin ¼ — (originalt 1 flaske graves (bordeaux)). 2 dl sherry (¼ flaske). 300 gr. sukker g sukker. 3 stk eggehviter med skallene (uvispede). 3 stk eggeskall (knuste, godt skylt). 3 stk sitroner (saft og tynt avskrelt skall, uten det hvite). 1 plate bladgull Fremgangsmåte: Vinen, vannet, eller bladsølv. Legg gelatinplatene i kaldt vann, skyll dem godt og klipp dem opp.. Ha vin, sherry, vann, den overskylte, opklippede gelatin, oppbløtte gelatinen, sukkeret, den utpressede saft sitronsaften og de det tynt skrelte skall av sitronene — intet hvitt —, avskrelte sitronskallet (uten noe hvitt) i en emaljert gryte sammen med de uvispede eggehviter eggehvitene og de knuste eggeskall has sammen i emaljert gryte, vispes eggeskallene. Visp et par minutter; settes minutter.. Sett gryten over varmen og bringes under stadig vispen visp uavbrutt til kokepunktet; vispingen ophorer, geléen koker op det når kokepunktet. Slutt så å vispe og la geleen koke opp til grytens rand, løftes av varmen settes tildekket i nærheten grytekanten.. Løft gryten av varmen, må ikke sett den tildekket nær varmen slik at den holder seg varm uten å koke, står 1½ time, siles med forsiktighet gjennem og la den stå i 15 minutter.. Sil geleen forsiktig gjennom et klæde, klede som er fuktet i varmt vann og bundet til fast over en omvendt opp-ned kjøkkenkrakk. Geléen has Rør ikke i bunnfallet.. Hell geleen i en vætet form, og når geléen skal til fuktet form. Når geleen begynner å stivne, vispes bladgullet inn med en sølvgaffel. Visp det sølvgaffel – ikke for meget ut. — Geléen må mye, gullet skal ligge som flak i geleen.. Sett geleen kaldt; den bør lages dagen før den skal serveres. Eggekrem serveres Velt den ut på fat og server eggekrem til.

Note on Modernised

OCR-en var oppstykket; ingredienslisten er satt sammen igjen. Vannmengden var uleselig og er tolket som ½ liter, «1/4 — sherry» som ¼ flaske (ca. 2 dl). «Graves» er en tørr hvit bordeauxvin – erstattes med tørr hvitvin. Gelatinplater er oppgitt både i antall og gram; i moderne liste brukes gram. Måleenheter modernisert (del. → dl).

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Frequently asked questions

Why does one use egg whites and crushed eggshells in the jelly?
They clarify the jelly. Unbeaten egg whites and crushed shells are whisked in cold, and as it heats to the boiling point they gather impurities into a foam that is left behind when the jelly is strained through a cloth moistened in hot water.
Which wine is used, and how much gelatin?
A bottle of Graves (white wine) and 1/4 liter of sherry, together with 1/2 liter of water, 300 g sugar and 3 lemons. The gelatin amount is 20 sheets, about 40 grams.
Why should the lemon zest be pared thinly?
Only the yellow zest should be included – "nothing white" – because the white pith makes the jelly bitter.
Why does the recipe take so long?
The cooking itself is short: the jelly is brought to the boiling point, stands covered for 1/4 hour and is strained. The rest of the time (up to about 13 hours) goes to letting the jelly set completely cold before it is decorated with gold or silver leaf.

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