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Wine Jelly with Gold or Silver Leaf (gelée dorée)

Clarified wine jelly of white wine (Graves) and sherry with lemon, clarified with egg white and eggshell, strained through a cloth and set in a mold; gold leaf is whisked in with a silver fork as the jelly begins to set. Made the day before, served with egg custard.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 494 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

From the chapter on jellies in Stor kokebok (1914). A festive, clarified wine jelly in which gold leaf (or silver leaf) is whisked into the jelly at the moment it begins to set, so the gold flakes hang like glitter in the clear jelly. Clarification with egg white and crushed eggshell is the classic method for a completely transparent jelly.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Soak the gelatin

    Place the gelatin sheets in cold water, rinse them well and cut them up.

  2. 2

    Mix everything cold

    Put the wine, sherry, water, the softened gelatin, the sugar, the lemon juice and the thinly pared lemon zest (without any white) in an enameled pot together with the unbeaten egg whites and the crushed eggshells. Whisk for a couple of minutes.

  3. 3

    Boil while whisking

    Set the pot over the heat and whisk continuously until it reaches the boiling point. Then stop whisking and let the jelly boil up to the rim of the pot.

  4. 4

    Let it steep

    Lift the pot off the heat, set it covered near the heat so it stays warm without boiling, and let it stand for 15 minutes.

  5. 5

    Strain clear

    Strain the jelly gently through a cloth moistened in hot water and tied firmly over an upside-down kitchen stool. Do not stir the sediment.

  6. 6

    Mold and gold leaf

    Pour the jelly into a moistened mold. When the jelly begins to set, whisk in the gold leaf with a silver fork – not too much, the gold should lie like flakes in the jelly.

  7. 7

    Cooling and serving

    Set the jelly cold; it should be made the day before it is to be served. Turn it out onto a platter and serve egg custard with it.

Changes from the original

The OCR was fragmented; the ingredient list has been reassembled. The amount of water was illegible and has been interpreted as ½ liter, "1/4 — sherry" as ¼ bottle (about 2 dl). "Graves" is a dry white Bordeaux wine – replaced with dry white wine. Gelatin sheets are given both in number and grams; the modern list uses grams. Measuring units modernized (del. → dl).

Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

From19141949Modernised
To19141949Modernised
1949 (proofread, p. 568) → 1914 (proofread, p. 494)~45% of the text changedremovedadded
Vingelé med bladgull eller sølv. (Gelée dorée.) Ingredienser: 20 plater (40 gr.) gelatin ¼ 1/2 l. vann ½ vand 1 flaske hvitvin ¼ graves 1/4 — sherry 300 gr. sukker 3 eggehviter med skallene 3 sitroner citroner 1 plate bladgull Fremgangsmåte: bladguld. Vinen, vannet, vandet, den overskylte, overskyllede, opklippede gelatin, sukkeret, den utpressede saft og de tynt skrelte skall tyndt skrællede skal av sitronene citronerne — intet hvitt —, de uvispede eggehviter og de knuste eggeskall has eggeskal haves sammen i emaljert gryte, vispes et par minutter; settes sættes over varmen ilden og bringes under stadig vispen til kokepunktet; vispingen ophorer, geléen vispningen ophører, geleen koker op til grytens rand, løftes av varmen settes tildekket ilden, sættes tildækket i nærheten av varmen, må ilden, maa ikke koke, står 1½ staar 1/4 time, siles med forsiktighet forsigtighet gjennem et klæde, fuktet fugtet i varmt vann vand og bundet til en omvendt kjøkkenkrakk. Geléen has kjøkkenkrak. Geleen haves i en vætet form, og når geléen naar geleen skal til å at stivne, vispes bladgullet inn bladguldet ind med en sølvgaffel. Visp det ikke for meget ut. — Geléen må Geleen maa lages dagen før den skal serveres. Eggekrem serveres til.

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Frequently asked questions

Why does one use egg whites and crushed eggshells in the jelly?
They clarify the jelly. Unbeaten egg whites and crushed shells are whisked in cold, and as it heats to the boiling point they gather impurities into a foam that is left behind when the jelly is strained through a cloth moistened in hot water.
Which wine is used, and how much gelatin?
A bottle of Graves (white wine) and 1/4 liter of sherry, together with 1/2 liter of water, 300 g sugar and 3 lemons. The gelatin amount is 20 sheets, about 40 grams.
Why should the lemon zest be pared thinly?
Only the yellow zest should be included – "nothing white" – because the white pith makes the jelly bitter.
Why does the recipe take so long?
The cooking itself is short: the jelly is brought to the boiling point, stands covered for 1/4 hour and is strained. The rest of the time (up to about 13 hours) goes to letting the jelly set completely cold before it is decorated with gold or silver leaf.

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