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Soup of Canned Turtle

Erken's simple version of turtle soup made with canned turtle: a brown roux with onion extended with bouillon, seasoned with paprika, lemon, sherry and Madeira, with meat cubes in the soup. A historical party dish; turtle should today be replaced with veal or sweetbread.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 58 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

Turtle soup was one of the finest party soups in the bourgeois kitchen around 1900. Where the genuine soup required a whole animal and hours of blanching and boiling, "preserved turtle" in a can was a far simpler solution that gave the same exclusive character. Today all sea turtles are protected, and the recipe is reproduced as a cultural-historical document — feel free to use good veal or veal sweetbread instead, the way the classic "mock turtle" was made.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Brown the roux

    Peel and finely chop the onion. Melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed pot, brown the onion and the flour gently until it is light brown and smells nutty.

  2. 2

    Extend with stock

    Gradually add the boiling bouillon while whisking constantly, so the soup becomes smooth. Let it simmer for a few minutes.

  3. 3

    Prepare the turtle

    Open the can of turtle and warm it in a water bath. Pour the contents into a colander and let the liquid drain off. Stir the drained liquid into the soup.

  4. 4

    Season

    Add the paprika, lemon juice, sherry and Madeira. Season with salt. The soup must not boil after the wine is added.

  5. 5

    Serving

    Cut the meat into small cubes, place them in the soup tureen and pour the hot soup over. Serve at once.

Changes from the original

Measurements are converted to modern units (1 del. = 1 dl). Amounts of salt and wine are given as "to taste" as the original states. Turtle meat is marked with a suggested substitution (veal/sweetbread), since sea turtle is protected.

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Clean, minimally processed groceries matched to the ingredients — approximate prices.

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Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

1914 (proofread, p. 58) → 1949 (proofread, p. 69)~51% of the text changedremovedadded
1 daase dåse henkokt skildpadde skilpadde, 2 l. buljong buljong, 50 gr. smør smør, 50 gr. hvetemel 1/2 del. sherry 1/2 hvetemel, 1 del. madeira vin, 1 knivsod paprika 1/2 citron knivsodd paprika, ½ sitron, 1 løk. Brun smørret smøret med løken og melet, spæd spe med den kokende kraft. Skildpaddedaasen aapnes, vannes Skilpaddedåsen åpnes, varmes i vandbad, heldes vannbad, helles i dørslag. Det som render renner igjennem, blandes med suppen, som tillages med krydderier og citron. Skildpaddekjøttet sitron. Skilpaddekjøttet skjæres op i smaa små firkanter og serveres i suppen. Vin og salt efter smak tilsættes. tilsettes.

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Frequently asked questions

How do I handle the can of turtle before using it?
The can is opened and warmed in a water bath, then the contents are poured into a colander. The liquid that drains through is stirred into the soup, while the meat is cut into small squares and added to the soup at serving.
What is the base of the soup itself?
A brown roux: 50 g butter is browned with onion and 50 g wheat flour, and extended with 2 liters of boiling bouillon. It is then seasoned with paprika (a pinch), half a lemon, sherry and Madeira (1/2 dl of each) and salt to taste.
When should the wine be added?
At the very end — the wine and salt are added to taste right at the end, so the aroma of the sherry and Madeira is not boiled away.
Where does the recipe come from?
From Henriette Schønberg Erken's "Stor kokebok" (1914), page 58. It is figured for 6 servings and about 45 minutes of preparation.

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