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Roast Thrush (grives rôties)

Erken's 1914 recipe for roast thrush: small birds cleaned with the giblets left inside, salted, head tucked under the wing, bound with slices of pork, browned and fried in butter about 25 minutes, optionally with a little cream; sauce of browned butter and pan butter deglazed with stock. Served with apple sauce.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 328 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

Thrush was common game and a delicacy in 1914. Erken gives the French name "grives rôties" as she often does in the game chapter, and recommends apple sauce with it. Such bird trapping is no longer permitted in Norway, so the recipe has primarily cultural-historical value – it can be adapted to other small birds such as pigeon or quail.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Clean the birds

    Pluck, singe (very quickly), and clean the birds. Put the liver and heart back inside the bird.

  2. 2

    Truss

    Rub the birds with a little salt, tuck the head in under the wing, and bind thin slices of pork around each bird.

  3. 3

    Brown and fry

    Brown the butter in a flat-bottomed pot, brown the birds in the butter, and fry them a further 25 minutes or so with even basting.

  4. 4

    Cream

    Optionally pour a little sweet cream in toward the end – but no more than lets the birds stay firm and keeps the sauce from becoming too pale.

  5. 5

    Make the sauce

    Brown 1 tablespoon of fresh butter and mix in the frying butter from the pot. Deglaze the pot with a couple of tablespoons of stock or boiling water, whisk around, bring to a boil, and pour the juices into the sauce.

  6. 6

    Serve

    Arrange the birds hot with the sauce. Apple sauce is served alongside.

Changes from the original

Amounts for pork, cream, and salt are estimated, as the original does not give them. "Spoon" is interpreted as tablespoon. The giblets placed inside the bird are kept but made optional. Frying time and method are otherwise unchanged.

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Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

From19141949Modernised
To19141949Modernised
Modernised → 1914 (proofread, p. 328)~79% of the text changedremovedadded
12 stk kramsfugl (eller vaktel/due; ribbet, svidd og renset). 100 g gr. smør (til steking). 150 g fersk sideflesk (i tynne skiver til å binde rundt fuglene). 1 dl flesk fløte (til slutt i pannen). 1 ts salt. 1 ss smør (nytt smør til sausen). 0,5 dl kraft (eller kokende vann, til å skylle gryten). Ribb, svid (svært hurtig) Kramsfuglene ribbes, svides og rens fuglene. Legg renses, lever og hjerte inn lægges ind i fuglen igjen.. Gni fuglene igjen; de maa svides meget hurtig. Smørret brunes i en flatbundet gryte. Kramsfuglene gnides med litt salt, stikk hodet inn stikkes ind under vingen vingen, og bind tynne fleskeskiver rundt hver fugl.. Brun smøret i en flatbunnet gryte, brun fuglene de ombindes med tynde fleskeskiver, brunes i smøret smørret og stek dem videre stekes i ca. 25 minutter under jevnt drypping.. Hell eventuelt litt minutter. Litt søt fløte kan haves i mot slutten – slutningen, men ikke mer enn saa meget, at fuglene holder seg faste blir bløte og sausen ikke blir for lys.. Brun lys. Til sausen bruner man 1 spiseskje nytt ske nyt smør og bland inn stekesmøret fra gryten. Skyll gryten med medtar saa det smør, hvori fuglene var stekt. Med et par spiseskjeer skeer kraft eller kokende vann, vand skylles gryten godt, visp rundt, omkring, kok opp det op og hell held skyen op i sausen.. Anrett fuglene varme med sausen. Eplemos (se side 252) serveres til. til kramsfugl.

Note on Modernised

Mengder for flesk, fløte og salt er anslått da originalen ikke oppgir dem. «Ske» er tolket som spiseskje. Innmat lagt inne i fuglen er beholdt, men gjort valgfritt. Steketid og fremgangsmåte er ellers uendret.

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Frequently asked questions

How long should the thrushes be fried?
About 25 minutes in browned butter in a flat-bottomed pot, after they have first been browned. The total time for the recipe is around 55 minutes including preparation.
How are the birds prepared before frying?
They are plucked, singed quickly, and cleaned. The liver and heart are put back inside the bird, they are rubbed with a little salt, the head is tucked in under the wing, and they are bound with thin slices of pork.
How is the sauce made?
Brown 1 spoonful of fresh butter, add the frying butter, deglaze the pot with a couple of spoonfuls of stock or boiling water, whisk together, bring to a boil, and pour the juices into the sauce. A little sweet cream can be added toward the end of frying – but not so much that the birds go soft or the sauce becomes too pale.
What is served with it?
Apple sauce (page 252 in Stor kokebok, 1914). The recipe is intended for 6 people with 12 thrushes.

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