Erken's recipe for roast wild duck from 1914: the duck is tied with slices of pork fat, browned in butter and roasted about ½ hour in a hot oven under constant basting, dusted with flour before serving. A sauce of brown sauce, bitter-orange sauce, red wine, lemon and orange juice is strained and served separately. Garnished with cress and lemon wedges.
Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 330 (falt i det fri)
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About the dish
From the chapter "Poultry and game" in Henriette Schønberg Erken's Stor kokebok (1914). The page is set in two columns, so the ingredient lists for several duck recipes are mixed together in the OCR text; the list here is reconstructed from the method. Wild duck was considered festive fare, and bitter-orange and orange sauce (bigarade sauce) was its classic companion.
How to make it
1
Prepare the duck
Clean the duck and truss it (bind the legs and wings against the body). Tie thin slices of pork fat around the breast and sprinkle with salt.
2
Brown and roast
Brown the duck in the butter in a pan or pot. Continue roasting it in a hot oven (about 220 °C (430 °F)) for roughly half an hour, and baste often with butter and bouillon.
3
Dust with flour
Just before serving, dust a little wheat flour over the bird so the skin becomes crisp.
4
Make the sauce
Bring the brown sauce to a boil together with the bitter-orange sauce, add red wine, lemon juice, orange juice, salt and pepper to taste. Let the sauce simmer for 15 minutes, strain it and skim off.
5
Plating
Carve the duck and place it on a warm platter. Garnish with small bouquets of cress and lemons cut in four. Serve the sauce separately in a sauceboat.
Changes from the original
The ingredient list is reconstructed and modernized (dl/l/g), "pork fat" is specified as slices of fresh or lightly salted pork belly/bacon, bitter-orange sauce is given with a modern alternative (orange/bigarade sauce). Roasting time and oven temperature are specified for a modern oven. The language of the steps is modernized.
📖1914
Original 1914 recipe
Verbatim from the first edition of the Big Cookbook.
Foto: Faksimile: Nasjonalbiblioteket
ProofreadPage 330
1 vildand
1 del. brun saus
1 del. rødvin
1 citron
1 appelsin
¼ l. buljong
⅛ l. pomeranssaus
mel
100 gr. smør
fleskeskiver
karse
salt
pepper.
Ænderne rengjøres og opsættes, ombindes med fleskeskiver, strøes med salt, brunes i smørret og stekes i varm ovn ca. ½ time. Dryp dem ofte med smør, og like før serveringen drysses litt hvetemel over. Sausen gives et opkok, tilsæt vinen, citronsaften, appelsinsaften, salt og pepper efter smak. Smaakoker i 15 minutter, siles, skummes. Ænderne skjæres op, lægges paa varmt fat, omgives med smaa buketter av karse og 4-delte citroner. Sausen serveres særskilt.
📖1949
Revised 1949 recipe
From the revised edition of the Big Cookbook.
Foto: Faksimile: Nasjonalbiblioteket
ProofreadPage 365
i villand
y 4 l. buljong
y 4 l. pommeranssaus
mel
ioo gr. smør
sitron.
Endene rengjøres og opsettes, ombindes med fleskeskiver, strøes med salt, brunes i smøret og stekes i varm ovn ca. y 2 time. Drypp dem ofte med smør, og like før serveringen drysses litt hvetmel over. Sausen gis et opkok, tilsett vinen, sitronsaften, appelsinsaften, salt og pepper efter smak. Småkoker i 15 minutter, siles, skummes. Endene skjæres op, legges på varmt fat, omgis med små buketter av karse og 4-delte sitroner. Sausen serveres særskilt.
Villanden flåes, renses, settes op, spekkes, gnis inn med litt salt, strøes med litt mel og brunes i smøret og steker ca. % time under stadig drypning med buljongoen. Anrettes med stekte poteter og appelsinsalat. Skyen gis et opkok med sitronsaften, helles over fuglen. Bigaradesaus serveres særskilt.
Liker man ikke den mulige transmak, kan man la anden ligge i melk natten over, eller i 1 l. vann tilsatt 2% del. eddik, eller man fyller en gryte med kokende vann, godt 1 cm. op, tilsetter 1 spiseskje salt, legger anden i, lar den småtrekke i 10 minutter, idet man stadig drypper anden over med saltvannet.
In stores now
Clean, minimally processed groceries matched to the ingredients — approximate prices.
1914 (korrekturlest, s. 330) → 1949 (korrekturlest, s. 365)~73% av teksten endretfjernetlagt til
1 vildand 1 del. brun saus 1 del. rødvin 1 citron 1 appelsin ¼ i villand y 4 l. buljong ⅛ y 4 l. pomeranssaus pommeranssaus mel 100 ioo gr. smør fleskeskiver karse salt pepper. Ænderne sitron. Endene rengjøres og opsættes, opsettes, ombindes med fleskeskiver, strøes med salt, brunes i smørret smøret og stekes i varm ovn ca. ½ y 2 time. Dryp Drypp dem ofte med smør, og like før serveringen drysses litt hvetemel hvetmel over. Sausen gives gis et opkok, tilsæt tilsett vinen, citronsaften, sitronsaften, appelsinsaften, salt og pepper efter smak. Smaakoker Småkoker i 15 minutter, siles, skummes. Ænderne Endene skjæres op, lægges paa legges på varmt fat, omgives omgis med smaa små buketter av karse og 4-delte citroner. sitroner. Sausen serveres særskilt. Villanden flåes, renses, settes op, spekkes, gnis inn med litt salt, strøes med litt mel og brunes i smøret og steker ca. % time under stadig drypning med buljongoen. Anrettes med stekte poteter og appelsinsalat. Skyen gis et opkok med sitronsaften, helles over fuglen. Bigaradesaus serveres særskilt. Liker man ikke den mulige transmak, kan man la anden ligge i melk natten over, eller i 1 l. vann tilsatt 2% del. eddik, eller man fyller en gryte med kokende vann, godt 1 cm. op, tilsetter 1 spiseskje salt, legger anden i, lar den småtrekke i 10 minutter, idet man stadig drypper anden over med saltvannet.
The duck is browned in butter and roasted in a hot oven for about ½ hour. Allow around 75 minutes total including preparation and sauce. Baste the duck often with butter during roasting.
Why is the duck tied with slices of pork fat?
Wild duck is lean meat, and slices of pork fat (fatback) around the bird keep it juicy during roasting. The duck is also sprinkled with salt and basted often with butter for the same reason.
What is the sauce made of?
A brown sauce is brought to a boil and red wine, lemon and orange juice, salt and pepper are added. It simmers for 15 minutes, is strained and skimmed. The recipe also uses bouillon and bitter-orange sauce. The sauce is served separately.
How is the dish plated?
The duck is carved and placed on a warm platter, surrounded by small bouquets of cress and lemon cut in four. The recipe is from Henriette Schønberg Erken's Stor kokebok (1914), p. 330, and serves 3.
