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Cured sausages

Erken's cured sausage of 4 kg horse meat and 1.5 kg pork with salt, saltpeter, clove, pepper, nutmeg, cognac, red wine, and sugar; the filling is packed tightly into casings, salted 3 days in a trough, dried, and smoked.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 651 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

From the slaughtering chapter of "Stor kokebok" (1914). Erken recommends horse meat for cured sausage, and the recipe belongs to the part of the book about making full use of the animal after slaughter. Saltpeter was used both as a color stabilizer and a preservative.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Grind the meat

    Grind the horse meat four times.

  2. 2

    Prepare the pork

    Cut half of the pork into fairly small cubes. Grind the rest of the pork twice on its own. The pork should have sat 5 hours in salt water, or place the pork cubes in a brine of 2 dl salt to 1/2 liter water. This is done so the pork does not turn rancid in the sausages later.

  3. 3

    Drain

    Place the pork cubes on a cloth and let them drain before mixing them into the filling.

  4. 4

    Knead the filling

    Work the ground meat thoroughly with the spices. While kneading continuously, add the cognac and red wine along with the sugar. Finally work in the ground pork and the pork cubes.

  5. 5

    Fill the sausages

    Pack the filling very tightly into straight, strong casings, preferably horse casings. Prick the sausages along the way so air escapes.

  6. 6

    Salting

    Place the filled sausages in a trough sprinkled with a little salt, and scatter a layer of salt over the sausages. Let them sit 3 days and turn them in the trough.

  7. 7

    Drying and smoking

    Hang the sausages up or wipe them dry, press them together more firmly, and smoke them. Then mature them in a cool, airy place.

Changes from the original

Measurements have been modernized (del. → dl, gr. → g, tsp/tbsp spellings updated). The steps have been rewritten in modern Norwegian. Saltpeter is given as in the original, but note that nitrite/nitrate curing salt is today used per current dosing instructions; the amount should not be increased.

Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

From19141949Modernised
To19141949Modernised
Modernised → 1914 (proofread, p. 651)~79% of the text changedremovedadded
4 kg hestekjøtt (kan erstattes med magert storfekjøtt). 1,5 kg kg. hestekjøt 1 1/2 kg. flesk (ferskt svinespekk/sideflesk). 150 g salt. gr. salt 1 spiseskje spiseske salpeter (i dag: nitrittsalt etter produsentens anvisning). 10 g nellik, malt. gr. nellik 10 g pepper, malt. gr. pepper 1 teskje muskat. teske muskat 1 dl konjakk. del. konjak 4 dl rødvin. del. rødvin 150 g gr. sukker. 2 dl salt (til saltlake av 1/2 l vann for flesketerningene). tarmer, sterke og rette (helst hestetarmer). Kvern hestekjøttet fire ganger.. Skjær Kjøttet males 4 ganger; halvparten av flesket skjæres i ganske små terninger. Kvern smaa terninger, og resten av flesket to ganger males for seg selv. Flesket sig selv 2 ganger; flesket skal ha ligget 5 timer i saltvann, saltvand, eller legg flesketerningene fleketerningerne lægges i en saltlake av saltlake, 2 dl del. salt til 1/2 liter vann. Dette gjøres for at l. vand; dette gjøres, forat flesket ikke senere skal harskne i pølsene senere.. Legg flesketerningene på pølserne; lægges op paa et klede og la dem renne av klæde, før de blandes haves i farsen.. Arbeid kjøttdeigen godt farcen. Kjøtdeigen arbeides med krydderne. Under vedvarende elting tilsettes konjakken krydderierne, og under vedholdende knadning haves konjak og rødvinen med sukkeret. Arbeid til sist inn det kvernede flesket sukkeret i. Flesket og flesketerningene.. Stopp farsen fleketerningerne arbeides i tilsidst. Pølserne stoppes meget fast i rette, sterke tarmer, helst hestetarmer. Prikk pølsene underveis så luft slipper ut.. Legg hestetarmer; prikkes under stopningen. Naar pølserne er færdigstoppet, lægges de ferdigstoppede pølsene i et trau traug, hvori der det er strødd strøet litt salt, og dryss salt; over pølserne drysses ogsaa et lag salt over pølsene. La dem ligge salt; ligger 3 døgn dage heri og vend dem vendes i trauget.. Heng pølsene opp trauget. Spekepølserne hænges op eller tørk dem tørres av, press dem trykkes fastere sammen og røyk dem. Modnes deretter kjølig og luftig. røkes.

Note on Modernised

Mål er modernisert (del. → dl, gr. → g, teske/spiseske → teskje/spiseskje). Trinnene er skrevet om til moderne norsk. Salpeter er oppgitt som i originalen, men merk at nitritt/nitratsalt i dag brukes etter dagens doseringsanvisning; mengden bør ikke økes.

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Frequently asked questions

What meat is used in these cured sausages?
The recipe uses 4 kg horse meat and 1 1/2 kg pork (pork fat/lard). The meat is ground 4 times, half the pork is cut into small cubes, and the rest is ground 2 times.
Why is the pork placed in brine first?
The pork should sit about 5 hours in salt water (2 dl salt to 1/2 l water) so it does not later turn rancid in the sausages. The cubes are placed on a cloth to drain before being worked into the filling.
What gives the filling its flavor and color?
Clove, pepper, nutmeg, and salt, plus saltpeter for color and shelf life. While kneading continuously, 1 dl cognac and 4 dl red wine with 150 g sugar are added.
How old is the recipe?
It is from Henriette Schønberg Erken's "Stor kokebok" from 1914, page 651. The stated total time is roughly 7 days, since the sausages are packed very tightly and then cured.

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