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Mushroom "turtle" (soppskilpadde)

Soppskilpadde (mushroom "mock turtle") from Erken's Stor kokebok 1914: a dark browned mushroom ragout with sherry, cayenne, small fish balls, and hard-boiled egg – a meat-free version of a mock-turtle fricassee.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 403 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

"Skildpadde" (turtle) was a fine, dark ragout in the style of turtle soup, often with meatballs and hard-boiled egg. Here Erken makes a thrifty, meat-free version using mushrooms and fish balls, as a festive dish from cheap ingredients.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Prepare the mushrooms

    Clean the mushrooms and cut them into coarse strips.

  2. 2

    Brown the thickening

    Brown the butter in a pot, stir in the flour, and thin with water or mushroom stock. Bring it to a boil.

  3. 3

    Cook the ragout

    Add gravy browning, salt, cayenne, and the cut-up mushrooms. Let it simmer for 15 minutes.

  4. 4

    Plating

    Just before serving, stir in the sherry and add the warmed fish balls. Arrange in a slightly deep dish and place the hard-boiled, cut eggs on top.

Changes from the original

Gravy browning is kept, but may be omitted; quantities are set in modern units, and the amount of liquid is interpreted as ¾ liter (unclear in the original print). The method is divided into steps.

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Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

From19141949Modernised
To19141949Modernised
1914 (proofread, p. 403) → Modernised~81% of the text changedremovedadded
1 l. sop l sopp (renset). 80 gr. smør g smør. 60 gr. hvetemel ¾ l. vand g hvetemel. 7,5 dl vann eller sopkraft soppkraft. 1 del. sherry salt cayenne smaa dl sherry. salt. cayennepepper. små fiskeboller (oppvarmet). kulør (kan sløyfes). 3 egg. Soppen renses stk egg (hardkokte). Rens soppen og skjæres skjær den i grove strimler. Smørret brunes, irøres melet, spædes strimler.. Brun smøret i en kjele, rør inn melet og spe med vandet, gives vann eller soppkraft. Gi det et opkok, tilsættes oppkok.. Tilsett kulør, salt, cayenne og den opskaarne sop; smaakoker oppskårne soppen. La det småkoke i 15 minutter. Idet den skal serveres, tilsættes vin minutter.. Rett før servering røres sherryen inn, og de varmede fiskeboller; anrettes fiskebollene legges i. Anrett i et litt dypt fat, fat og legg de haardkokte overskaarne egg lægges paa fatet. hardkokte, delte eggene på toppen.

Note on Modernised

Kulør er beholdt, men kan sløyfes; mengder er satt i moderne enheter, og væskemengden er tolket som ¾ liter (utydelig i originaltrykket). Fremgangsmåten er delt i trinn.

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Frequently asked questions

How long should the mushrooms cook?
The mushroom strips simmer 15 minutes in the browned sauce. The total time for the dish is roughly 45 minutes.
What is the sauce made of?
A brown roux-based sauce: 80 g butter is browned, 60 g wheat flour is stirred in and thinned with ¾ l water or mushroom stock. It is seasoned with gravy browning, salt, and cayenne, and finally 1 dl sherry.
When are the fish balls and eggs added?
The warmed small fish balls are stirred in at the very end, together with the wine, just before serving. The dish is arranged in a slightly deep dish, and the hard-boiled, sliced eggs (3 pcs) are placed on top.
Where does the recipe come from?
From Henriette Schønberg Erken's "Stor kokebok" (1914), page 403. It is figured for 4 servings and uses 1 liter of mushrooms.

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