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Celery Ragout (céleri en ragoût)

Celery ragout from Erken (1914): stalk celery is blanched, simmered tender in veal stock with onion, and served in a roux-based sauce of butter, flour, milk, and stock, enriched with cream and parsley. Garnished with mushrooms; can also be arranged in rows on toasted bread.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 378 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

This recipe appears in the chapter "Root Vegetables and Greens" in Erken's "Stor kokebok" (1914), right after braised stalk celery. The dish shows how stalk celery was served as a stand-alone, somewhat festive vegetable course with white sauce, mushrooms, and toast — a typical "entremets" in bourgeois cookery around 1900.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Blanch the celery

    Wash the stalk celery well and cut the stalks into pieces about 8 cm long. Cover with cold water, bring to a boil, and pour off the water.

  2. 2

    Simmer tender

    Pour the stock over the celery, add the finely chopped onion, salt, and pepper, and let it simmer for about ½ hour.

  3. 3

    Make the sauce

    Stir the butter and flour together, thin with the milk and the stock from the celery, and let the sauce simmer for 10 minutes.

  4. 4

    Season

    Season the sauce to taste and stir in the cream and half of the parsley.

  5. 5

    Plating

    Place the celery on a warm dish and pour the sauce over. Pile the mushrooms in a tall mound in the center and sprinkle the rest of the parsley on top. The dish can also be arranged in rows on toasted bread with mushrooms between the rows.

Changes from the original

Measurements are converted to modern units (dl, g, tablespoons/teaspoons). "Veal stock" can be replaced with light meat stock or bouillon. The mushroom quantity was unspecified in the original; a guiding amount is given. The method is divided into numbered steps.

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Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

From19141949Modernised
To19141949Modernised
1949 (proofread, p. 416) → Modernised~77% of the text changedremovedadded
(Céleri en ragout.) 2 eller 3 stangsellerier ca. 1/2 l. stk stangselleri (2–3 hele stauder). 5 dl kalvekraft (eller lys kjøttkraft). 5 dl melk. 2 spiseskjeer kremfløte ss kremfløte. 1 liten stk løk (liten, finhakket). 1 dessertskje finhakket ss persille (finhakket (1 dessertskje)). 60 gr. smør g smør. 60 gr. hvetemel g hvetemel. salt (etter smak). pepper champignons. Sellerien vaskes godt, (etter smak). 200 g sjampinjong (kokte eller smørdampede). Vask stangsellerien godt og skjær stilkene skjæres i ca. 8 cm. cm lange stykker, dekkes stykker. Dekk med koldt kaldt vann, bringes varm opp til kokepunktet, vannet slåes av. Sellerien tilsettes kraften, kokepunktet og hell av vannet.. Hell kraften over sellerien, tilsett den finhakkede løken, salt og pepper pepper, og småkoker 1/2 time. Smør la det småkoke i ca. ½ time.. Rør smør og mel røres sammen, spes spe med kraften, småkoker melken og kraften fra sellerien, og la sausen småkoke i 10 minutter. Krydres efter minutter.. Krydre sausen etter smak og irøres rør inn fløten og halvparten av persillen. Sellerien anrettes persillen.. Legg sellerien på et varmt fat, fat og hell sausen helles over; legg champignonene høit over. Legg sjampinjongene i midten en høy haug midt på og dryss over dem strø resten av persillen. Sellerien persillen over. Retten kan også anrettes i rekker på ristet brød og champignons lagt mellem med sjampinjong mellom rekkene.

Note on Modernised

Mål er omregnet til moderne enheter (dl, g, spiseskjeer/teskjeer). «Kalvekraft» kan erstattes med lys kjøttkraft eller buljong. Champignonmengden var uspesifisert i originalen; det er angitt en veiledende mengde. Fremgangsmåten er delt i nummererte trinn.

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Frequently asked questions

Why should the celery be blanched first?
The stalks are covered with cold water, brought to a boil, and the water poured off. This removes the sharp/bitter flavor before the celery goes on to cook in the veal stock.
How long does the dish cook?
The celery simmers about ½ hour in stock with onion, salt, and pepper. The sauce of butter, flour, milk, and stock simmers for 10 minutes. Total time about 1 hour.
How is the celery ragout plated?
The celery is placed on a warm dish, the sauce poured over, mushrooms piled high in the center, and the rest of the parsley sprinkled over. It can also be arranged in rows on toasted bread.
Where does the recipe come from?
From Henriette Schønberg Erken's "Stor kokebok" (1914), page 378, under root vegetables and greens. It serves 4.

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