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Smoked Salmon

Homemade smoked salmon: an 8–9 kg salmon is split along the back without water, salted 2½ days in 1 l salt and 2 dl sugar under a weight, brushed with saltpeter dissolved in cognac, cold-smoked 8 hours, and matured 6 days. The trimmings are boiled into salmon soup; the salmon is stored dry, not in the refrigerator.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 125 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

Erken's thorough instructions for home-smoked salmon, with her characteristic practical note that "most people probably send it off to be smoked." She wastes nothing: the backbone, head, and tail are boiled into salmon soup.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Split the salmon

    The salmon should not be scraped or washed. Cut off the head and tail, and open the fish along the back, not the belly. Let the knife follow the underside of the backbone, then cut the backbone away on the other side.

  2. 2

    Clean without water

    Remove the innards and entrails. Wipe away the blood with a cloth that is not wet, and rub some of the blood into the fish. Do not use water.

  3. 3

    Salt down

    Spread a thick layer of 1 liter salt and 2 dl sugar on a large wooden board. Lay the salmon skin-side down, cover it completely with salt and sugar, and place a board on top.

  4. 4

    Weight and cure

    The next day, place a light weight on top. Let the salmon rest this way for 2½ days; it must be covered with salt the entire time.

  5. 5

    Wipe off and brush

    Wipe away the salt with a cloth, and finally wipe the salmon over with 1 teaspoon finely ground saltpeter dissolved in ½ dl cognac.

  6. 6

    Smoking

    Spread the salmon out on the skin side with two thin wooden splints. Smoke the salmon 8 hours in cold smoke (or send it to a smokehouse).

  7. 7

    Post-maturing

    After 6 days the salmon is ready to eat. Let the salmon lie flat, not hang — it gets drier from hanging.

  8. 8

    Use the trimmings

    Put the backbone into cold, salted water. When it boils and has been skimmed, boil the head and tail or a few tail pieces in the stock. Use the stock for salmon soup.

  9. 9

    Storage

    Smoked salmon must not be stored in the refrigerator, because the salmon draws in moisture. It is best stored — once you have begun to slice it — in a dry, slightly cool room, preferably wrapped in parchment paper.

Changes from the original

Measurements converted to modern units (1 l salt, 2 dl sugar, ½ dl cognac). "Iskasse" (ice box) is explained as a refrigerator. Saltpeter has been kept as in the original but is not necessary for the flavor.

Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

1949 (proofread, p. 150) → 1914 (proofread, p. 125)~71% of the text changedremovedadded
En laks på paa ca. 8 å 9 kg., kg. 1 l. salt 2 del. sukker 1 teske finstøtt salpeter 1/2 del. konjak En laks paa ca. 8 å 9 kg. skrapes ikke, vaskes ikke, åpnes aapnes ikke i buken, men langs ryggen, efterat hode og hale er skåret skaaret av. Under opskjæringen skal kniven følge ryggbenets rygbenets underste side; derpå derpaa skjæres ryggbenet rygbenet fra på paa den anden siden. Innvoller side. Indvolder og innmat tas indmat tages ut, og blodet tørkes vekk tørres væk med en ikke våt vaat klut, idet noet noget av det gnis inn gnides ind i fisken. Bruk ikke vann. vand. Et tykt lag salt og sukker legges på lægges paa en stor trefjel træfjæl (1 l. salt, 2 del. sukker), legg skinnsiden på læg skindsiden paa laksen ned, dekk dæk den aldeles med salt og sukker og legg læg en anden fjel fjæl over. Næste dag legges lett press på. Således lægges let pres paa. Saaledes ligger laksen 2½ 2 1/2 døgn, hele tiden må maa den være dekket dækket med salt. Saltet tørkes vekk tørres væk med et klæde, klæde og tilsist tilsidst vaskes den over med 1 teskje teske finstøtt salpeter, opløst i ½ del. konjakk. Røkelaks må ikke opbevares i iskasse, for laksen trekker fuktighet til sig. Best opbevares den — efter at man har begynt å skjære av den — i et tørt, litt kjølig rum, og helst innpakket i pergamentpapir. Fisken vannes ut i 1 å 2 døgn; skjæres i passe stykker. Disse småtrekker i vannet ca. ¼ time. Anrettes på varmt fat og overhelles med smeltet smør irørt hårdkokt, hakket egg. Kokte gulerøtter og persillesmør serveres til. Med nykokte første klasses poteter er retten en delikatesse. Kjøttet er rødlig og uten transmak. Skjær skinnet bort, vask stykket godt og legg det 1 time i eddikvann. 1 1/2 del. eddik til 1 l. vann. Tørk da godt i rent fiskeklæde; derefter meget gjerne i søt melk et par timer. Den stekes helst eller oplages og er i det hele en utmerket matfisk. Den blir 3–4 meter lang, rygg og sider sortgrå, buken hvit. På skinnsiden konjak. Paa skindsiden utspiles laksen ved hjelp hjælp av to fliser. Laksen røkes i 8 timer i kold røk, — de fleste sender den vel bort til røkning! Efter 6 dagers dages forløp er den ferdig færdig til spisning. La laksen ligge, ikke henge; hænge; den blir tørrere av det siste. sidste. Det fraskaarne ben sættes over ilden i koldt, saltet vand, og naar det koker og er skummet, kokes hode og halen eller nogen halestykker heri. Laksesuppe av kraften naturligvis. Røkelaks maa ikke opbevares i iskasse, ti laksen trækker fugtighet til sig. Bedst opbevares den — efter at man har begyndt at skjære av den — i et tørt, litt kjølig rum og helst indpakket i pergamentpapir.

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Frequently asked questions

Why should the salmon not be washed or scraped?
In the original 1914 recipe the fish should be kept completely dry — it is neither scraped nor washed, and the blood is wiped away with a cloth that is not wet. Some of the blood is even rubbed into the fish. Water should not be used.
How is the salmon dressed for smoking?
It is not opened at the belly, but along the back after the head and tail have been cut off. The knife follows the underside of the backbone, and the backbone is then cut away on the other side before the innards and entrails are removed.
How long does the salmon rest in salt and sugar?
The salmon is laid skin-side down on a wooden board in a thick layer of salt and sugar (1 l salt, 2 dl sugar), covered completely, and given a board on top. The next day a light weight is placed on it, and it rests this way for 2½ days.
How large a salmon is the recipe made for?
A salmon of about 8–9 kg, which gives about 20 servings. In addition, 1 l salt, 2 dl sugar, 1 teaspoon finely ground saltpeter, and ½ dl cognac are used.

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