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Oysters à la diable (huîtres à la diable)

Erken's oysters à la diable (1914): oysters are placed in their deep shells with a white sauce of butter, flour, milk and oyster liquor, topped with a slice of truffle, more sauce, grated Parmesan and melted butter, set in coarse salt and gratinated golden in high heat.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 137 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

One of Erken's French-inspired oyster dishes from the fish chapter of "Stor kokebok" (1914). The oysters are gratinated in the shell with white sauce, truffle and Parmesan – a typical party starter of the era.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Clean the oysters

    Open the oysters, remove the beards and collect the liquor. Clean the deep shells well.

  2. 2

    Make the sauce

    Melt the butter, stir in the flour and thin with the boiling milk and the oyster liquor. Let the sauce simmer gently for half an hour, and season with salt and pepper.

  3. 3

    Fill the shells

    Place 1 teaspoon of sauce in each deep shell, lay 1–2 oysters on top, a slice of truffle on the oysters and cover with 1 teaspoon of sauce. Sprinkle with grated Parmesan and drizzle melted butter over.

  4. 4

    Set in salt

    Fill an ovenproof dish with about 2 cm of coarse salt and press the filled shells firmly down into the salt.

  5. 5

    Gratinate

    Place the dish first on top of the stove so the bottom heats through, and then briefly in a very hot oven – or under the broiler – until the surface takes on a light golden color. Serve at once.

Changes from the original

Measurements have been converted to modern units, "salamander" has been replaced with the oven broiler. Quantities for oysters, truffle and cheese are estimated, as the original does not give them. The language has been modernized and the method divided into steps.

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Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

1949 (proofread, p. 166) → 1914 (proofread, p. 137)~95% of the text changedremovedadded
Østersene åpnes Østers trøfler 30 gr. smør 35 gr. hvetemel 6 del. kokende melk salt pepper parmesanost smeltet smør Østerserne aapnes, skjegget borttages og skjæres løse; de saften samles. De dype skall hvori de ligger, legges i et blikkfat eller annet passende fat, som tåler varmen; fatet fylles først ca. 2 cm. høit skaller renses. Smørret smeltes, irøres melet, spædes med salt, den kokende melk og skallene trykkes fast ned. Sitronsaft dryppes over østersene, ganske litt pepper strøes over, østerssaften. Smaatrækker 1/2 time, tilsættes salt og fatet settes 5 minutter i varm ovn. Av følgende ferdigkokte saus legges pepper efter smak. 1 teskjefull over hver østers: Løken finhakkes og has i emaljert gryte sammen med hvitvinen; småtrekker teske av denne saus lægges i 10 minutter, tilsettes de dype skaller, herpaa lægges 1 à 2 østers, paa disse lægges en brun saus, laget på følgende måte: Smør og mel langbrunes sammen, tilsettes 4 del. buljong, settes tilside på komfyren skive trøffel, denne dækkes med 1 teske av sausen, bestrøes med parmesanost og koker i den ene side, mens skummet avsetter sig dryppes med smeltet smør. Skallene sættes i den annen side og lett kan fjernes. Når sausen har kokt ½ time, tilsettes resten av buljongen samt de småskårne tomater eller tomatpuré salt som ovenfor forklaret. Fatet med saltet og de 30 gr. mirepoix. Når sausen er godt innkokt og silt, holdes den varm fyldte skaller sættes først ovenpaa ovnen, forat bunden kan bli gjennemhetet, sættes derefter et øieblik i vannbad og tilsettes sherryen. meget varm ovn for at faa en let gylden farve, eller man glasserer med en salamander.

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Frequently asked questions

How is the sauce for oysters à la diable made?
Melt 30 g butter, stir in 35 g wheat flour and thin with 6 dl boiling milk plus the liquor from the oysters. The sauce should simmer gently for about half an hour before being seasoned with salt and pepper.
How are the shells filled?
Use the cleaned, deep shells: place 1 tsp of sauce in the bottom, then 1–2 oysters, a slice of truffle, another 1 tsp of sauce, and sprinkle over Parmesan before drizzling on melted butter.
Why are the shells set in salt?
The shells are set in a dish of salt so they stand steady and the heat is distributed evenly. The dish is placed first on top of the stove so the bottom heats through, then briefly in a very hot oven.
Where does the recipe come from?
From Henriette Schønberg Erken's "Stor kokebok" from 1914, page 137. It serves 4 and takes about 75 minutes in total.

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