Erken 1914: lamb kidneys are soaked, sliced, fried quickly in butter; the pan is deglazed with white wine and reduced, and a sauce of butter, oil, onion, wine, cognac, meat gravy, and tomato sauce is made. The kidneys are warmed in the sauce without boiling and sprinkled with parsley.
Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 244 (falt i det fri)
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About the dish
From the meat chapter of "Stor kokebok" (1914). Erken uses French names for finer offal dishes, and the recipe clearly shows French restaurant influence with white wine, cognac, and tomato sauce.
How to make it
1
Prepare the kidneys
Soak the kidneys, pull off the membrane, and cut them into slices. Season with salt and pepper.
2
Frying
Fry the kidneys quickly in butter in a pan and lift them onto a platter.
3
Deglaze the pan
Deglaze the pan with 1 dl white wine and reduce it for about 1/2 hour.
4
Sauce
Combine 50 g butter and the oil, add the onion, and brown it quite lightly. Add the rest of the wine and 1 tsp cognac and bring to a boil.
5
Finish the sauce
Stir in the meat gravy and tomato sauce and let the sauce cook for 5 minutes. Combine with the reduced wine from the pan.
6
Serving
Warm the kidneys in the sauce without letting it boil. Plate and sprinkle with finely chopped parsley.
7
Changes from the original
"del." is interpreted as deciliters. "5 gr. smør" in the OCR is corrected to 50 g. A dessert spoon is set to 1 tablespoon oil. The number of kidneys is estimated at 8 pcs, as the original gives no figure. "Vannes i sausen" is interpreted as "warmed in the sauce."
📖1914
Original 1914 recipe
Verbatim from the first edition of the Big Cookbook.
Foto: Faksimile: Nasjonalbiblioteket
ProofreadPage 244
Nyrer
smør
salt
pepper
2 løk
50 gr. smør
1 dessertske olje
2 del. hvitvin
1 teske konjak
1 del. kraftsaus
½ del. tomatsaus
1 teske finhakket persille.
Nyrerne utvandes, hinden trækkes av, og nyrerne skjæres i skiver, krydres og stekes hurtig i smør. Nyrerne lægges op, og gryten skylles med 1 del. hvitvin, koker ind ½ time, tilsættes følgende saus: Smør og olje blandes, tilsættes løk; denne brunes ganske let, tilsættes resten av vinen og 1 teske konjak; gives et opkok. Kraftsausen og tomatsausen røres i, koker i 5 minutter. Nyrerne varmes i sausen uten at koke; anrettes og overstrøes med finhakket persille.
📖1949
Revised 1949 recipe
From the revised edition of the Big Cookbook.
Foto: Faksimile: Nasjonalbiblioteket
ProofreadPage 274
(Rognons d'agneau.)
Nyrer, smør, salt, pepper, 2 løk, 5 gr. smør, 1 dessertskje olje, 2 del. hvitvin, 1 teskje konjakk, 1 del. kraftsaus, ½ dd. tomatsaus, 1 teskje finhakket persille.
Nyrene utvannes, hinnen trekkes av, og nyrene skjæres i skiver, krydres og stekes hurtig i smør. Nyrene legges op, og gryten skylles med 1 del. hvitvin, koker inn ½ time, tilsettes følgende saus: Smør og olje blandes, tilsettes løk, denne brunes ganske lett, tilsettes resten av vinen og 1 teskje konjakk; gis et opkok. Kraftsausen og tomatsausen røres i, koker i 5 minutter. Nyrene varmes i sausen uten å koke; anrettes og overstrøes med finhakket persille.
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Clean, minimally processed groceries matched to the ingredients — approximate prices.
1914 (korrekturlest, s. 244) → 1949 (korrekturlest, s. 274)~50% av teksten endretfjernetlagt til
Nyrer smør salt pepper (Rognons d'agneau.) Nyrer, smør, salt, pepper, 2 løk 50 løk, 5 gr. smør smør, 1 dessertske olje dessertskje olje, 2 del. hvitvin hvitvin, 1 teske konjak teskje konjakk, 1 del. kraftsaus kraftsaus, ½ del. tomatsaus dd. tomatsaus, 1 teske teskje finhakket persille. Nyrerne utvandes, hinden trækkes Nyrene utvannes, hinnen trekkes av, og nyrerne nyrene skjæres i skiver, krydres og stekes hurtig i smør. Nyrerne lægges Nyrene legges op, og gryten skylles med 1 del. hvitvin, koker ind inn ½ time, tilsættes tilsettes følgende saus: Smør og olje blandes, tilsættes løk; tilsettes løk, denne brunes ganske let, tilsættes lett, tilsettes resten av vinen og 1 teske konjak; gives teskje konjakk; gis et opkok. Kraftsausen og tomatsausen røres i, koker i 5 minutter. Nyrerne Nyrene varmes i sausen uten at å koke; anrettes og overstrøes med finhakket persille.
The kidneys are soaked first, the membrane is pulled off, and then they are cut into slices. Season with salt and pepper and fry them quickly in butter.
Why must the kidneys not boil in the sauce?
Kidneys become tough and dry with long cooking. That is why they are fried only quickly and finally warmed in the sauce without letting it boil.
What is the sauce made of?
The pan is deglazed with 1 deciliter white wine that is reduced for half an hour. The sauce is made from 50 g butter and 1 dessert spoon of oil with 2 onions lightly browned, the rest of the wine, and 1 teaspoon cognac, then 1 dl meat gravy and 1/2 dl tomato sauce cooked for 5 minutes. Finally, finely chopped parsley is sprinkled over.
Where does the recipe come from?
It is taken from Henriette Schønberg Erken's "Stor kokebok" from 1914, page 244, where it is called "Lammenyrer (rognons d'agneau)."